Signal Dynamics Heads-Up Voltage Monitor

[Thrud]

Hi,

Anyone else have this voltage monitor mounted on their Valk?  I have one mounted on my 2000 Interstate and am pleased with its operation.  I'm concerned, however, about the voltage output of my alternator.  The monitor's LED flashes Red at idle (< 12V), solid Red at cruising speeds (12.1 - 12.5V), and Amber at highway speeds (12.6 - 12.8V).  Is my charging system okay?  If my alternator's not outputting its maximum I wonder how the electrical system is going to behave when I upgrade my speakers to 4 x Polk Audio DB501s and a Sony XM-4S amp.

Where have you connected your Heads-up voltage monitor?  If I connect it to the battery terminals will I risk draining the battery?  Should I just connect it to the Accessory terminal and a good ground so it's not on constantly?

Here's the product link:

http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77

Thanks,
Steve

[dallastar]

i would tap it into the 12V power outlet somewhere it can be turned on and off with key or some kinda switch ....im thinking it dont draw much power but any draw is a draw and over time will kill a battery ..i wouldnt connect direct to battery


  If I connect it to the battery terminals will I risk draining the battery?  Should I just connect it to the Accessory terminal and a good ground so it's not on constantly?


Steve
[/quote]

[Ricky-D]

I think you charging system is sub par.

Output voltage at high idle should be 13.5 to 15.5 volts.

The manual goes into good detail regarding this system and how to test components.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

With readings that low, I suspoect the installation of the device more than a poor charging system.......your bike would be hard to start and be exibiting strange things like the tach quitting and lights dimming if it was really trying to operate on less than 12V

[Thrud]

I've got a pair of small Kuryakyn silver bullet driving lights with a 20W Halogen bulb each that are always on.  Would this make a difference or no?

Thanks,
Steve

[3W-lonerider]

my first suggestion would be is to hook up a volt meter to your battery and start the bike..see what the volt meter say's..if you battery monitor is reading correctly then i'd suspect you probably have altenator failure a blown fuse going to the altenator..if your battery monitor is not reading correct..i'd hook it straight to the battery to see if where you have it connected now is giving you a false reading. or if the battery monitor is any good. if you are getting a false reading then i'd hook that battery monitor to a circut that is hot when the key is on. i do not hook battery voltages guages to headlights circuts because they read low to begin with because of the voltage draw of the headlight.

[sandy]

I have a Battery Bug on my Wing. It hooks up to the battery and is on all the time. I use the Wing about once per week with no problems. It gives a current DCV reading all the time in digital form. No colored lights to interpret.

[Ricky-D]

Heck, why spend the money for an aftermarket gizmo and then question whether it is working correctly or not.

There was the same kind of questions on an earlier thread regarding another of the same type of device.

The thing to do to fathom out what and why about the performance of the device is:

Charge you battery to full capacity. That should be minimum 12.8 volts after a cooling down period of good length.

Use a volt/ohm meter to verify your battery is fully charged.

Put the battery back in the bike and cut off any lights you may have on, the aftermarket ones and then start the bike and observe the results on that thingy.

If you are still getting the same results - prepare to get a new/rebuilt alternator. See MARS for info, use the search facility.

And the question of will that thing discharge your battery is all dependent on how much you use the bike and the condition of your battery and charging system.

***

[R J]

Well said Mr. Ricky-D.

Lots of duplicate questions, especially, bike won't start, and it ends up being choke not properly applied.

Plus the reply is always, I had the choke fully on.   20 replies later, OH, you were right, I didn't have the choke all the way on.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've got this monitor on my bike and trust it as far as being true. Mine goes thru its self check mode as soon as the bike starts, after that if idle is about 900 to 1000 rpms.I have a green light all the time. If I have my driving lights on at idle I'll sometimes drop to a yellow light but it goes green as some as rpms rise. Once it a while with spots on and fan running on rad at idle I'll get a red light until rpms are increased.
   I would take a volt meter and check at the battery to see what the reading are, should be 12.4 or better before starting then above idle (about 2000rpms or better) volts should come up to 14 or better. If monitor is still show poor reading try and re wire to another source. I have mine wired to my front running lights and it works geat.

[Robert]

I have the same one and my advice is get a voltmeter and verify that its reading correctly when running. I hooked mine up to the a wire that wasn't full voltage and the results were just like yours. Changed the wire I had it hooked to and then all was good and really accurate. The light circuit is not the best one to hook it to. With all the lights on at idle it still is in the dim green mode, partly because I have led lights for running lights with the exception of the headlight and the light bar lights. When I didn't use all leds at idle it used to turn yellow and the minute you hit the throttle it turned green. Because of the wiring on these bikes the light circuit is sometimes a volt or two under battery voltage so if that was the case it could easily explain your results.