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Korea Man
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« on: October 20, 2011, 12:02:13 PM » |
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Hello folks... Gonna take the big step of taking off the CARBS this weekend and replace the #35's for #38. Anyother recommendations or "Heads up" to do before, during and after I pull them?...  I have a shop manual, and have heard that the Air Cleaner can be a real bugger! So other than having the support here, previous advice, the right tools, supplies, labeling items and taking my time...does ANYBODY have any cautions I need to be ready for!!!!????  And yes my palms are sweating ALREADY!  Thanks.... |
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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9Ball
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2011, 01:24:40 PM » |
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good luck....
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2011, 01:46:08 PM » |
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and there are those that will disagree with some things, I don't claim to be an expert, but have removed and cleaned up and re-installed several sets.
I take the clamps or bands all the way off where the air box attaches to the intakes and re-install them after the airbox is back on. This way I don't have to fish them out from the top of the engine after the airbox is in. It is easier to remove the rear engine hangers and one coil on the left and the whole bank will come out to the left.
Mark the throttle cables top and bottom or push and pull. If you haven't removed the tank before, you will need to loosen the screw that attaches the fuel selector and pull it back. I also remove the 8mm bolt that attaches the selector assembly and take it off and out of the way. Run the fuel low before taking the tank off, to make it lighter. When you finish the carbs, make sure the petcock is working as it should before re-installing the tank. You might need a rebuild kit or fuel screen, so check early on as you may need to order parts. Check the o-rings underneath the intakes where they meet the head and make sure none appear to have been leaking.
I have not changed the jets on the bikes that I have repaired, just cleaned up the old ones. Make very sure that everything is clean before you fire it up, doesn't hurt to open all the fuel drain screws and let them drain some gas into a catch can with vacuum applied to the tank before you fire it up.
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bikerboy1951
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2011, 02:16:31 PM » |
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A radiator hose removal tool (looks like a a screwdriver with an angled point on the end). When the air box is close to being in position, run the tool around the hose on both sides as far back as you can reach. The last time I put the air box back on, it took less than 15 minutes to get the hoses on the carbs.
Brad
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2011, 02:31:42 PM » |
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Step #1: drain all the carbs before doing anything. That way when you turn them over to remove the bowls you won't get raw gas pouring all over your bench.
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Blackduck
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« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2011, 05:34:28 PM » |
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I have sent you a PM with a bit of a guide to carb removal, just my way of doing it.
It is not that hard of a job. If in doubt about hose or wire positions either tag them or take plenty of photo's as you go.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Wingster1980
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« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2011, 11:42:08 AM » |
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Hi Folks ....Also known as Korea Man..too many AKA's....Sorry as I do appreciate the effort of you sending me the info… Most of the items that was mentioned here was already experienced by me as I started prior to reading these…DUH! (and why did he ask in th eforst place then?) but I cannot believe the issue about the air cleaner! Who ever invented the pipes to the cleaner thing ought to be shot....Whew! I do have one question about the PAIRS. The rounfd object that has the two lines running down into the engine case. I started to take off the two screws that mount to the carb frame(?) and of course the head started to strip...I stopped immediately and sprayed some penetrating oil on it and will try later tomorrow...I am chilling now(as this was quite the experiance, fun but will see how frustrating that Air box will be to put back on) How important is it to take this off?...if the screws will not come off? If I can work around it .....but? I believe this is more of a convience to take off? Also, I notice as thin cable with a what looks like a "dog tag chain" attached that goes between the carbs; what that is (more curious right now). Also is there anything special about the throttle cable as it hooks to the carbs..I have labeled them so no deal there, but any simple wasy of seperating the cable from where it mounts...?..it looks worriesome.... This has actually been some real fun but not too sure about that air cleaner....and those "pipes." Thanks all....I am labeling, taking pics and of course talking here. I have pretty much resigned any riding in the immediate future, but will keep all updated as my being the "Flippen New Guy (FNG)" at this, "lets tear the thing apart so he can have something to do this winter!  Thanks to one and all and look forward to hearing from you folks.... |
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Korea Man
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« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2011, 11:45:55 AM » |
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Thanks all...back as Korea Man...have a great weekend all.....  |
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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Korea Man
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« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2011, 12:09:17 PM » |
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Also, I was wondering ....is it worth the effort to desmog? and is there a link? here..(yes!), does it apply to CAL bikes only? but if someone would have one off the top of their head that would be nice... but only if there is a good recommendation and of course if it's worth the time.
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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Rocketman
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« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2011, 12:22:09 PM » |
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I do have one question about the PAIRS. The rounfd object that has the two lines running down into the engine case. I started to take off the two screws that mount to the carb frame(?) and of course the head started to strip...I stopped immediately and sprayed some penetrating oil on it and will try later tomorrow...I am chilling now(as this was quite the experiance, fun but will see how frustrating that Air box will be to put back on) How important is it to take this off?...if the screws will not come off? If I can work around it .....but? I believe this is more of a convience to take off?
Also, I notice as thin cable with a what looks like a "dog tag chain" attached that goes between the carbs; what that is (more curious right now).
Unless it's been way too long since I did this, there's no reason to remove the pair valve. I see no reason to do that. As for the "dog tag chain", that sounds like a connection for a cruise control. I have an aftermarket cruise that installed with a chain like that. I don't remember one being there prior to the cruise install. Yes, carb removal can be tough at times, but it sounds like you're making more out of than it deserves. The two hardest parts: Fitting the unit out/in after it's been disconnected, and making sure the tubes are all properly installed, even on the backside where you can't really see well. Mark |
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Blackduck
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2011, 05:15:04 PM » |
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Not sure why I take the Pair main valve off, think it was a clearance issue when taking the carb assembly out .Will check the next time I pull the carbs
An impact screwdriver is very handy when working on any bike. If you don't have one place a screwdriver into the screw and give it a hit with a hammer. Have not seen a chain on one of these but agree it sounds like part of a cruise control.
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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justooneez
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« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2011, 08:29:10 PM » |
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yeah, I just experienced near the same trying to take that pair valve off, all the other screws came out easy, but honda really rammed those 2 in hard. I found an oversized phillips bit (#3 or 4 I think) and it had enough bite to get them, they wanted to strip out with the standard number 2 phillips. If you got a larger phillips it will work, but the impact driver would definitely get it  |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2011, 09:14:14 AM » |
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Using correct fitting tools is probably the most important part when working on these bikes.
Especially so when dealing with screwdrivers, flat blade and phillips. All phillips head are not the same and never does "one size fits all" apply here. They are not the same even though they make look the same.
A test fit will quickly tell if you're using the correct tool. Taking the lazy approach and thinking "this will do" is a prescription for disaster.
Six point sockets and wrenches are always the preferred tool.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Korea Man
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« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2011, 04:59:20 PM » |
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Hello folks...looks like the message is clear and yes I have made sure they fit well...looks like the "impact," is the way to go as well...but honestly I will just have a look and see how they come out...also the issue about the cruise control may be come an issue as well...as I have one...electronically engage vacume controlled it appears...if I can get a brand name(it was installed when I bought the bike)perhaps some one can give me a hand or info on that as well...so far nothing has been been taken off that wasn't stated in the shop manual...but we'll keep a close eye on it.....thanks one and ALL! No work today as I was a bit under the waether and it appears this just may be a bit longer to do than justa weekend issue...but no rush...hope someone can help on the "Cruise Control."
Korea Man
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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PhredValk
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« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2011, 09:01:59 AM » |
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Have a look at the ShopTalk page, under Tech Tips the 4th item is Audiovox Cruise Control Install. It's the most popular Cruise Control on Valks, and the pix may tell you what you have.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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Korea Man
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« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2011, 09:06:18 AM » |
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To Rocket Man; but anyone can answer. The cruise control seems to have gone on the fritz as well...but I take look at that. It may have an electrical glitz/issue...but I'll take a real close look. (Rocketman...have you had any issues, have you heard of it not working well because of sitting for long periods of time etc?) The cruise control is on the left side (I suppose any side would have been appropriate) just in front of the fuel select; it is black in color and cylindrical. It appears that the power source is coming from the left side coils to the cylinder, with the on accell/decell on the left side handlebar (a small gray switch box) This discription in hopes that maybe yours is the same as mine. No real issue, again maybe a mountain out of a mole hill; but taking it slow. I want to remember what and and how I pulled the stuff off. Also, is it better to pull the intake manifolds off the cylinder head and then pull them off the carbs or visa versa? or pull them out as I take the carbs set out (that sounds dumb but you never know)... One thinng I can say, and it was recommended earlier, this is a fantastic time to clean EVERYTING down under...and will do so as I reattach everything. May try to get at it today but still feeling a bit puney...and of course this cruise control throws a new wrench into the fray...but not to dismay...I am still looking to change the jets no matter what...actually this is a bit of fun and I am sure, like the rest of you all that have done this several times, it will be top story at the "O Club..." Thanks one and all... |
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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Korea Man
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« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2011, 09:30:49 AM » |
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Thanks to PhredValk!!!!!
Found out which one (Cruise control) that I have, .(AudioVox Cruise Control) at least that is what it appears......now curious as to why it doesn't work.....most likely a bad relay or on/of switch(gotten wet?) as I anot sure if it has been Vulcanized!(Live long and prosper), wouldn't think it is the cylinder...so we'll see.......
Korea Man
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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Rocketman
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« Reply #17 on: October 24, 2011, 11:58:32 AM » |
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To Rocket Man; but anyone can answer. The cruise control seems to have gone on the fritz as well...but I take look at that. It may have an electrical glitz/issue...but I'll take a real close look. (Rocketman...have you had any issues, have you heard of it not working well because of sitting for long periods of time etc?) The cruise control is on the left side (I suppose any side would have been appropriate) just in front of the fuel select; it is black in color and cylindrical. It appears that the power source is coming from the left side coils to the cylinder, with the on accell/decell on the left side handlebar (a small gray switch box) This discription in hopes that maybe yours is the same as mine. No real issue, again maybe a mountain out of a mole hill; but taking it slow. I want to remember what and and how I pulled the stuff off. Also, is it better to pull the intake manifolds off the cylinder head and then pull them off the carbs or visa versa? or pull them out as I take the carbs set out (that sounds dumb but you never know)... One thinng I can say, and it was recommended earlier, this is a fantastic time to clean EVERYTING down under...and will do so as I reattach everything. May try to get at it today but still feeling a bit puney...and of course this cruise control throws a new wrench into the fray...but not to dismay...I am still looking to change the jets no matter what...actually this is a bit of fun and I am sure, like the rest of you all that have done this several times, it will be top story at the "O Club..." Thanks one and all... Concur with your conclusion that it's an Audiovox. As for where it draws power: That's a more complicated story than I think you realize. There are several hookups for it. (I hope someone will double check my facts here, since it's been several years since I've hooked one up, and I'm going by memory): First is vacuum, which it usually draws from one (or more) of the ports on the intake runners. The vacuum is the source of the energy that actually moves the throttle. The second hookup is what you've identified off of the coil. That's a signal wire, and it seeks to keep the coil firing at a constant rate. (So, point of technicality, it's keeping you at a constant rpm, not a constant speed. This should be a minor point, unless you change gears.) The third hookup is the "dog chain" that you referred to initially, and that is where the cruise pulls on your throttle linkage. It's tied in parallel to the normal throttle linkage, so pulling with one gives slack in the other. The fourth hookup is electrical power. This can be hooked up to wherever you can get keyed hot 12V. There was a built-in fuse holder on my power line, and there doubtless is on yours. The fifth hookup (and this is where my memory is a bit fuzzy) is a safety cutoff. It ties into the brake light wire, and when that sees a path to ground (brakelight on), it shuts off the cruise. This keeps you from hitting the brakes but fighting the engine wanting to continue pushing until you find the "cruise off" button. Note that this will not work if you switch your brake light to an LED. You'll have to make a mod to get it back working again, but I don't remember what that mod is. Check all those connections, including vacuum lines for leaks, and I suspect you'll find the issue. Normally I would say only work on one thing at a time, and the carbs are more critical, but while the carbs are off is a great time to get at all the cruise-related stuff. As for the intake runners: What I do is once I get the airbox out, and unbolt the intake runners from the heads, I lift one side of the carb bank, remove the runners on that side, then reverse the process. Just be careful not to scratch the mating surfaces with the runners when you're taking them out. Not too difficult, just requires some care. Mark |
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Korea Man
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« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2011, 05:09:51 AM » |
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I am thinking that it's the "The fourth hookup is electrical power. This can be hooked up to wherever you can get keyed hot 12V." As I may have not rehooked the wire to the battery. Fuzzy math here, but I believe I took a green wire from the battery while doing some "stuff" before I left for Iraq (actually removing my previoulsy attached SIRIUS set up. Awsome but now I have a different SIRIUS set up and no new mounting so have to wait until the new one comes out this upcoming year.) And honestly do not recall hooking it back and of course there is no green wire on the battery now....so I'll give a look. It could have fallen down in the nether regions. That is most likely the culprit.I am a bit leary of electrical stuff as I have known folks to burn out a complete wire harness and I certainly do not want that.
Also that was my same thinking of the "intake runners." Simple. Thanks again and we'll keep those interested updated on my progress...
Korea Man - to ALL...
P.S. Don't you just love th epic of my Grand baby! LOL! Have a day all.
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DANNY R. HERRON
AKA - Wingster80
AKA - Korea Man
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Rocketman
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« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2011, 03:04:17 PM » |
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Have you gotten around to checking this yet?
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Madmike
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« Reply #20 on: November 02, 2011, 05:18:50 PM » |
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Using correct fitting tools is probably the most important part when working on these bikes.
Especially so when dealing with screwdrivers, flat blade and phillips. All phillips head are not the same and never does "one size fits all" apply here. They are not the same even though they make look the same.
A test fit will quickly tell if you're using the correct tool. Taking the lazy approach and thinking "this will do" is a prescription for disaster.
Six point sockets and wrenches are always the preferred tool.
***
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_driveLook at the JIS screws....... |
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