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Author Topic: Strange Occurrence  (Read 2869 times)
greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« on: November 13, 2011, 10:28:49 AM »

I had something wierd happen yesterday.
98 Stnd with 73 k for miles.
I have owned her for the last five years and have never replaced the  battery.
Yesterday while getting on the highway I noticed my tach went dead, Blown Fuse?
So I proceded to chase down and overtake some crotch rockets with a Buddy and his Wing, then I noticed I was unable to get over 110 mph?
NO concerns because I had a strong 40 mph head wind.
Uppon getting to the garage I notcied she was not sounding right in regards to engine noise, however she was still running and Idled ok.
I shut it down and then tried to start it again and the starter draged like the battery had no juice.
Checked all the fuses and all connections and everything was just fine.
Put her on the battery tender over night and she fired right up this morning and the tach was even working.
Seems lke I got an unexpected length of life out of my battery of five years.
Time to purchase a new battery? 
Any thoughts and or suggestions?
TIA GreggH
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Madmike
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*****
Posts: 837


Campbell River BC, Canada


« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2011, 12:20:34 PM »

check the voltage with a multimeter... maybe your alternator is not putting out
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Gryphon Rider
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*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2011, 12:53:00 PM »

Alternator rotor.
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greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2011, 01:05:38 PM »

I do not have any volt meters and the Battery being 5 years old I am willing to get a new battery and call it at that.  Until some other symptoms occur. Roll Eyes
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Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2011, 01:41:16 PM »

Your symptoms are that of an alternator failure, and the most common way an alternator fails on Valkyries is one of the wires in the windings of the rotor breaks.  Putting a charge on your battery allowed your battery to start the bike.  That means your battery is good enough to NOT be the cause of your symptoms.  While it might be a good idea to replace a five-year-old battery just because it's old, your problem will not be solved.  When an alternator fails, your ignition will run from battery power for a while until it is discharged.  The first thing the rider notices is the tachometer stops working.  Shortly thereafter the ignition becomes inconsistent.  Eventually the bike stalls and will not turn over with the starter.  Letting the battery recover for a little while might restore enough juice to get the bike running again, but you won't get far.  Before you buy a battery, why not spend $5 or $10 and get a cheap multimeter so you can confirm that your battery voltage doesn't increase when you rev the engine.  This will confirm that it is a charging problem, not a battery problem.
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Disco
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Posts: 4901


Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2011, 04:39:30 PM »

I'm with Gryphon Rider.   cooldude

Your battery might be going bad, but I suspect the alternator as the cause.  Symptoms sound familiar.
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K
71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                   IBA 44,783
YoungPUP
Member
*****
Posts: 1938


Valparaiso, In


« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2011, 04:44:41 PM »

2-5 bucks for a cheapie multimeter at the good old harbor freight.  Hate to see ya waste a good battery on a crapped out alternator.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
Chiefy
Member
*****
Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2011, 05:38:59 AM »

Your symptoms are that of an alternator failure, and the most common way an alternator fails on Valkyries is one of the wires in the windings of the rotor breaks.  Putting a charge on your battery allowed your battery to start the bike.  That means your battery is good enough to NOT be the cause of your symptoms.  While it might be a good idea to replace a five-year-old battery just because it's old, your problem will not be solved.  When an alternator fails, your ignition will run from battery power for a while until it is discharged.  The first thing the rider notices is the tachometer stops working.  Shortly thereafter the ignition becomes inconsistent.  Eventually the bike stalls and will not turn over with the starter.  Letting the battery recover for a little while might restore enough juice to get the bike running again, but you won't get far.  Before you buy a battery, why not spend $5 or $10 and get a cheap multimeter so you can confirm that your battery voltage doesn't increase when you rev the engine.  This will confirm that it is a charging problem, not a battery problem.

This is consistant with my experience on too many used cars.

Take your battery out and go to Batteries plus.  They'll test it for you.  Some auto parts stores will also.  Even if you want to replace it anyway, it should help you pinpoint the problem.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14808


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2011, 05:54:37 AM »

I had something wierd happen yesterday.
98 Stnd with 73 k for miles.
I have owned her for the last five years and have never replaced the  battery.
Yesterday while getting on the highway I noticed my tach went dead, Blown Fuse?
So I proceded to chase down and overtake some crotch rockets with a Buddy and his Wing, then I noticed I was unable to get over 110 mph?
NO concerns because I had a strong 40 mph head wind.
Uppon getting to the garage I notcied she was not sounding right in regards to engine noise, however she was still running and Idled ok.
I shut it down and then tried to start it again and the starter draged like the battery had no juice.
Checked all the fuses and all connections and everything was just fine.
Put her on the battery tender over night and she fired right up this morning and the tach was even working.
Seems lke I got an unexpected length of life out of my battery of five years.
Time to purchase a new battery? 
Any thoughts and or suggestions?
TIA GreggH


Some will disagree with me, but extended use with a weak battery is hard on our little alternators.  Sounds like the 55A fusable link may have blown.  Check it to be sure its under the right side cover.....
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greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2011, 06:55:16 AM »

I am going to have the alternator check at a friends garage and make the detirmination from the stay tuned.
I did think it to be strange that the tach wnet dead on me and there were no blown fuses anywhere!
Will get the alternator checked out.
Thanks a bunch guys.
Greggh
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da prez
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Posts: 4371

Wilmot Wi


« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2011, 08:20:24 AM »

   Start with basics before indepth testing. Clean all terminals and connections to include the grounds. They are often overlooked as a cause. Dirty connections make for high resistance. You might have lost an alternator, but to replace it without checking all possibilities could lead to another failure. Check the symptoms and the causes as well .
                                                                         da prez
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2011, 08:40:16 AM »

YoungPup has it right!

Go spend a few bucks for a cheapie volt/ohm meter.

How can you form an opinion on electrical issues without one?

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
art
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Posts: 2737


Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2011, 12:26:00 PM »

My alternator went out at 80000 mi. Be sure to check it out
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greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #13 on: November 14, 2011, 04:13:30 PM »

The plan is to take the advise that has been given.
Will know more later this week or weekend.
Thank for everyones advise.

Greggh
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Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #14 on: November 14, 2011, 04:55:41 PM »

My alternator went out at 80000 mi. Be sure to check it out
Ihave 94k on my original, but I carry a spare in my saddle bag when I ride long.  Hoser
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #15 on: November 15, 2011, 04:40:51 AM »

If rebuilding the alternator is needed what parts am I looking to replace?
Greggh
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sheets
Member
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Posts: 984


Jct Rte 299 & 96, Calif.


« Reply #16 on: November 15, 2011, 05:49:45 AM »

Did you confirm the "fusible link" is still intact? I experienced the same loss of power / dead battery symptoms one time on my 1200 GW. Was the fuse as mentioned above. Replaced and all was good in the 'hood. 
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Hoser
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*****
Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2011, 05:58:20 AM »

If rebuilding the alternator is needed what parts am I looking to replace?
Greggh
Most fair sized cities have an auto electric shop or two that can rebuild our alternator, it is in actuality an automobile alternator. It also is available on line, I got my spare here:
http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/
hoser
« Last Edit: November 15, 2011, 06:00:11 AM by Hoser » Logged

I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #18 on: November 15, 2011, 10:43:44 AM »

My alternator went out at 80000 mi. Be sure to check it out
Ihave 94k on my original, but I carry a spare in my saddle bag when I ride long.  Hoser

Where is this fusable link at?
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greggh
Member
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #19 on: November 15, 2011, 10:46:49 AM »

Did you confirm the "fusible link" is still intact? I experienced the same loss of power / dead battery symptoms one time on my 1200 GW. Was the fuse as mentioned above. Replaced and all was good in the 'hood. 

Where is this fusable link at?
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Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14808


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2011, 03:38:47 PM »

the fusable link is where I said....behind the right side cover in a rectangular box that says "fuse" on it....oh, and if its blown there should be a spare tucked in the side of the lid, but still go out and get a new one!
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sheets
Member
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Posts: 984


Jct Rte 299 & 96, Calif.


« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2011, 05:55:38 PM »

Open the little black box that has the word "fuse - fusible" embossed on the cover.
The fusible link is a very thin strip of metal... that will disintegrate in the center... leaving a disconnect. 

The green connection is the one that needs to be inspected and cleaned periodically.

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greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2011, 06:57:14 PM »

Yepper, checked that fuse also.
All fuses check out ok.  Will have the alternator tested here later this week.
THanks
Greggh
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greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #23 on: November 16, 2011, 10:35:08 AM »

If rebuilding the alternator is needed what parts am I looking to replace?
Greggh
Most fair sized cities have an auto electric shop or two that can rebuild our alternator, it is in actuality an automobile alternator. It also is available on line, I got my spare here:
http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/
hoser


Hey Hoser, how current are those prices?  They seem really resonable!
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Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #24 on: November 16, 2011, 10:57:31 AM »

You can test the alternator yourself while it's on the bike with a simple volt meter.

Measure across the posts on the battery.

If the reading does not rise with the rpms you know it is not working.

How high the reading goes with the rpms is a measure of how good the alternator is working.

The manual says with the high beam on the reading should be about 15-1/2 volts (@ 5k rpms), more than that is not good, less means the same.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Hoser
Member
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #25 on: November 16, 2011, 12:45:16 PM »

If rebuilding the alternator is needed what parts am I looking to replace?
Greggh
Most fair sized cities have an auto electric shop or two that can rebuild our alternator, it is in actuality an automobile alternator. It also is available on line, I got my spare here:
http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

Hey Hoser, how current are those prices?  They seem really resonable!
Bought it about 6 months ago.  Hoser

« Last Edit: November 16, 2011, 12:46:56 PM by Hoser » Logged

I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #26 on: November 20, 2011, 12:44:17 PM »

Well the test results are in and the Alternator is the problem.
I have the website that Hoser had posted and will most lilkey be getting a rebuild from there.
Thanks to everyone for their imput and their support.

Greggh
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Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #27 on: November 20, 2011, 02:47:51 PM »

Here is the site for M.A.R.S.  Motorcycle Alternator Repair Service

http://mysite.verizon.net/resp3jbj/

I think this guy is well respected by the Valkyrie forum and is also a supporter of the forum.

He repaired my alternator and was very easy to communicate with. I am a very satisfied customer.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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