trigger wheel help.

[jarid]

Hey guys does anyone have some pics of a trigger wheel? is it flat? could a 4 degree wheel be flipped over for 4 degree retard? thanks.

[jarid]

Just based on the pics I found it looks like it could be flipped over can anyone confirm?TIA

[jarid]

Looks like you could flip it.

[GOOSE]

jarid...   answers:  1.) you have the picture.  2.)  flat on the backside/beveled on the edge on the outside.  3.)  i don't think you are going to be able to flip it to get your 4-degree retard for the supercharger.....that will be another question that MR. JEFF K. will be able to answer.  good luck with the magnacharger.

[jarid]

Good eye Goose I noticed that also if anything I think shimming out the pick ups would fix the bevel offset.Looking for input.Thanks Goose.

[gordonv]

I also would agree with that. If the flipped wheel moves away from the trigger, a shim to raise the trigger would work, just look for interferrance.

Also, in theory, I would think you could flip it, but would it give you 4* or 6*? Like mentioned, you have the pics (or parts?), measure from the leading edge and do the math. Except I would be using a protractor, not a micrometer, since you want degrees (yes, you also could use the micro).

[jarid]

Just FIY Gordonv I found these pics on this sightI think your on the right track though. Thanks

[Bigwolf]

The Valkyrie is a rather new addition to my garage and I just recently have started looking at the timing so I might be wrong.  However I see 11 trigger points, not 12, on those trigger wheels in your photo.  Also, according to my Valkyrie manual, there are 2 trigger sensors.  I am thinking that that one missing trigger point running through the 2 pick up sensors is what the CDI is using to select which coil to fire when.  If that is so, you might be able to switch wires at the coils to account for the difference.  You probably allready seen that.  The best information/answer might be with the people that make the charger kit.

Wolf

[98valk]

they are beveled the same both sides, they can be flipped for less advance.

[jarid]

Thanks ca exhaust. So would a flipped 4 degree wheel give me 4 degrees of retardation? .thanks atgain.

[RP#62]

I'm speculating but I don't think it'll work if you flip it.  Usually on systems with 2 pickups, one is used to determine RPM (it factors out the missing tooth) and the other one determines crank position based on the missing tooth.  If that's what's going on here, flipping it would throw the ignition timing off.
-RP

[98valk]

I'm speculating but I don't think it'll work if you flip it.  Usually on systems with 2 pickups, one is used to determine RPM (it factors out the missing tooth) and the other one determines crank position based on the missing tooth.  If that's what's going on here, flipping it would throw the ignition timing off.
-RP

I'm not 100% sure, only state it will work because somebody stated about 2 yrs ago that they installed the 6 degree TW backwards and that it was running but down on power.
u most likely are right. the better route I would think is just modding the tab to retard the advance

[Jeff K]

From personal experience I can say if you flip it the bike will pop and backfire and sound like hell. And it doesn't run very well.

If you flip it the missing tooth will be WAY off.

[jarid]

If Im not mistaken on a 4 degree wheel the points are just shifted 4 degrees in relation to the crank slot so wouldnt reversing it just make it 4 degrees retarted everything is the same right? please keep coming with the input. thanks guys.

[Jeff K]

If you flip a four it will be 4 degrees retarded from stock, bu the missing tooth will be 30-40 degrees off.

better bet would be to remove the tab, clock the wheel to the right retard and go from there.

Now you just have to figure out how to keep the std advance when not in boost. like the timing switch mod?

[jarid]

Thanks for the input Jeff what do you think about filing of the tooth to get my 4 or 5 degrees and then using the ECT mod/pressure switch? I found an old post that you mentioned somthing similar to this.

[Jeff K]

ECT mod, that is what I was talking about, I just couldn't remember the name.

You could file the tab and get your retard, I'd have to give the ect mod some thought.
Maybe the guys familiar with that will chime in.

Retard the timing manually, and bring it forward with the ECT mod when not in boost?

 

[jarid]

Yes axactly. I have seen somewhere on here where someone did a d wiring diagram showing how to drop ignition advance with ECT mod when in boost I figure that with the retarded/modded wheel that should work.what would you reccomend 4/5 degrees?

[Jeff K]

Either would be fine.

[gordonv]

I don't think you should mod the stock trigger wheel at all. You have 2 chioices. Get/make one that is what you want.

I think you would be better off, IF you could, to move the triggers. Make some kind of base plate, maybe slotted, so you could actually adjust your timing by moving it.

Of cource, there would be other problems. I would need to look at the front of my engine (wrecking) to see what it is you are trying to do. Maybe shim the wheel to give a little clearance, so the triggers can be raised on a bracket.

I don't have a trigger wheel, but I know a machinist who works at home, and isn't looking for a fortune to make things.

[Jeff K]

I don't think you should mod the stock trigger wheel at all. You have 2 chioices. Get/make one that is what you want.

I think you would be better off, IF you could, to move the triggers. Make some kind of base plate, maybe slotted, so you could actually adjust your timing by moving it.

Of cource, there would be other problems. I would need to look at the front of my engine (wrecking) to see what it is you are trying to do. Maybe shim the wheel to give a little clearance, so the triggers can be raised on a bracket.

I don't have a trigger wheel, but I know a machinist who works at home, and isn't looking for a fortune to make things.

Why? Why go through all that trouble? Trigger wheels are a dime a dozen, In fact I'll bet I have a dozen of them myself.

[gordonv]

OK, if they are that cheap, and you have that many, then flip it. It shoul dbe exactly 4* retarded now.

Now you can cut off one tab where the missing one was, and weld one tab back in the spot that is currently missing, at the proper degress. Now if you haven't done it perfectly, you will only have one spark plug firing wrong maybe by a degree only.

[jarid]

please keep the ideas coming.hey jeff if you get a chance could you try what gordon said,flip one and lay it on the other and see what we get? thanks

[Blackduck]

Jeffs got it right, the simplest and easiest is to file the tab. You can put a dob of weld on the other side to keep the tab width if you want but it does not make a lot of difference as the wheel is clamped solid when the bolt is torqued up.
I run a filed tab and can change the setting by just loosening the main bolt and moving the trigger wheel to where I want it then retorque the bolt. No need to remove the belts each time
Cheers Steve

[98valk]

to see ignition curves and the advance curve the ECT mod controls

http://timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm

[Jeff K]

please keep the ideas coming.hey jeff if you get a chance could you try what gordon said,flip one and lay it on the other and see what we get? thanks

I did. I laid a 6 degree over a stock and flipped it. It was 6 degrees retarded and the missing tooth was 30-40 degrees off, I didn't actually measure it.

[jarid]

So let me see if I have this right,If I file a stock wheel to give me 4 degrees retard,then use ECT mod to get advance back (for no boost situations),then use a hobbs pressure switch to bypass ECT mod and back to 4 degrees retard when boost kicks in?
That should work right?
Input is very appreciated.TIA.