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Shotgun
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« on: May 06, 2009, 06:10:41 PM » |
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I was at Bob's BBQ on Sunday (a great time) and heard one of the guys talking about changing brake fluid. I hadn't done mine for almost two years so I thought it would be a good idea. I installed Speed Bleeders a few years ago and love them. However, when I changed the the clutch fluid, I noticed that there was seepage around the threaded part of the bleeder. I took it out and noticed that there wasn't much sealer (or whatever that stuff is on the threads). I thought that might be the problem, so this morning I found a new Speed Bleeder in my parts box that had more sealer on it and installed it. I just got home from work and checked it and it is still leaking. There wasn't a lot of sealer on it. Any suggestions? Can I just put more thread sealer on it? And where do I get that stuff? What's it called? Thanks for any help, I need to get this fixed because it's making me crazy.
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Valker
Member
Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2009, 06:20:10 PM » |
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Are you sure you tightened them back to specs? (don't ask)  |
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Shotgun
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« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2009, 02:28:31 AM » |
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I did. I only have a problem with the clutch. The brakes are all fine.
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Kingbee
Member
Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
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« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2009, 05:36:15 AM » |
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I don't have the numbers offhand, but the clutch bleeder is a different part number than the brakes. Are you sure you installed the correct one?
The clutch requires a longer bleeder. The brake ones don't seal properly in the clutch application.
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9Ball
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« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2009, 01:42:52 PM » |
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I don't have the numbers offhand, but the clutch bleeder is a different part number than the brakes. Are you sure you installed the correct one?
The clutch requires a longer bleeder. The brake ones don't seal properly in the clutch application.
It's a different length nipple, but the threads are the same size 8mm x 1.25 pitch. The L or LL has to do with the length of the nipple only. Speedbleeder sells the goop....here's the link. Sounds like the threads are boogered though. Hopefully not. http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/product/THREADSEALANT |
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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Shotgun
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« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2009, 07:13:45 PM » |
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I put the OEM bleeder back in (with the "O" ring) and it stopped. Speedbleeders is sending me a new one with the sealant.
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9Ball
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« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2009, 04:40:54 AM » |
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their customer service is the best....can't say enough good about them.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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Robert
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2009, 02:52:23 PM » |
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John I think King Bee may have had the solution to your problem. You see the thread pitch and diameter 8mm x 1.25 pitch, are the same but the length is not only of the nipple but of the base or threaded portion. The bleeder seals at the base both are a taper cut or cone shape and when you screw it in there is metal to metal contact and it seals ,not really requiring sealant or a oring to seal. I would be careful especially on the brakes because, There shouldn't be a oring to seal the bleeder on the brakes again its the same metal to metal contact. I have also seen that some have tightened the bleeder to tight and actually distorted the bleeders so that the base bent and instead of it being a perfect cone shape it had a small crimp in it. The other scenario I have seen is the bleeder is to short and when tightened ,tightens against the nut portion of the bleeder instead of the base. I may be off the mark here but I would rather be safe than sorry especially when it comes to brakes and possible fluid leaks.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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9Ball
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2009, 01:36:24 PM » |
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John I think King Bee may have had the solution to your problem. You see the thread pitch and diameter 8mm x 1.25 pitch, are the same but the length is not only of the nipple but of the base or threaded portion. The bleeder seals at the base both are a taper cut or cone shape and when you screw it in there is metal to metal contact and it seals ,not really requiring sealant or a oring to seal. I would be careful especially on the brakes because, There shouldn't be a oring to seal the bleeder on the brakes again its the same metal to metal contact. I have also seen that some have tightened the bleeder to tight and actually distorted the bleeders so that the base bent and instead of it being a perfect cone shape it had a small crimp in it. The other scenario I have seen is the bleeder is to short and when tightened ,tightens against the nut portion of the bleeder instead of the base. I may be off the mark here but I would rather be safe than sorry especially when it comes to brakes and possible fluid leaks.
You're right about the 8125LL being longer in both nipple and seat than the 8125 or the 8125L. The 8125 and 8125L are the same seat length, but the nipple is longer on the L model. This is per the SB website. |
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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Spirited-6
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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2009, 02:12:27 PM » |
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I`m sorry, but I fail to see why guys will spend $$ on speed bleeders when they are not needed. Here is what I do;;; Hose to fit bleeder, about 24 " long, container, IE. VODKA Bottle, drill hole in top of bottle/container , insert hose, fill with about of 1" of fluid, install hose to bleeder, do not let air get into line, pump away and you are done without spending big bucks on Speed Bleeders. I did my 98 Tourer in less in 30 minutes with only the cost of # 4.  |
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Spirited-6
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