Right fork re-build....

[PSUbag]

The wifey bought me new tires for my birthday    and I figured before I put the front one on, it would be a good time to replace the seals on my leaky (right) fork. Removing the fork from the bike was easy enough and I was starting to feel pretty good about the project. THENNNNN  I only made it to step #2 in my Clymer manual, lol. I loosened the top bolt chrome bolt, slid the tube down, and found out that I don't have a wrench thin enough to hold the locknut. Anyone know what size the locknut is? I'm gonna have to go to some stores to try and find a thin wrench. Any other tips that you guys can share would also be appreciated. I'm a little concerned about messing this job up. It looks a little complicated and I'm not exactly a Master Mechanic!

Thanks in advance!

[RonW]

17mm (right locknut) .... 14mm (left locknut)

Bareass did an excellent write-up about VTX 1800 forks (progressive springs), here

NorthStar Riders fork replacement video (4 parts)

*in one of the videos there's a method of replacing the Left  fork seal without having to use the special wrench for the  inner fork bolt. For later on perhaps.	powered by Aeva

[9Ball]

You can take an old wrench and grind it down to fit....that's what I did years ago when I put in the progressive fork springs.

[JC]

If you still have the original tool kit that came with the Valk, the wrenches in it will fit   

[Gryphon Rider]

If you still have the original tool kit that came with the Valk, the wrenches in it will fit   

That's what I had to use.

[PSUbag]

If you still have the original tool kit that came with the Valk, the wrenches in it will fit   

That's a little embarrassing, lol. I took the fork down to my brothers house and didn't take the bike tools along because he has just about every tool ever made. The bike wrench worked just fine.

Getting the new seal in place was a chore! I researched the archives here and found where a guy cut the old seal and used it to tap the new one in. That was slow going but eventually I got it in far enough.

My next question is this. Is there a generic fork oil I can get at an auto parts store? The nearest Honda shop is 50 miles away. I have an Auto Zone and an Advance Auto about 2 miles away. I was hoping there'd be something there similar.

This site is an awesome wealth of info. Thanks in advance!

[Gryphon Rider]

My next question is this. Is there a generic fork oil I can get at an auto parts store? The nearest Honda shop is 50 miles away. I have an Auto Zone and an Advance Auto about 2 miles away. I was hoping there'd be something there similar.

I've never looked for fork oil in an auto parts store, but your nearest motorcycle shop should have some.  I put in 15 weight fork oil (forget the brand) and found the forks to be firmer than with the original fork oil.  Rougher over the bumps but slows fork dive rate when I'm quick on the front brakes.  I think the OEM oil is about 10 weight.  The problem with fork oil is there isn't an enforced industry standard for labelling viscosity.

[PSUbag]

I'm only doing the right side, so I guess I ought to stick to the Honda stuff? (10 weight)

[sandy]

Lots of folks use ATF oil. It's a fine grade of 10 W oil.

[art]

I have used atf oil in a GW an it worked good ,never had any problems with it.After all it is hydralic oil.honda says use honda oil ,harley says use harley oil,yamaha says use there oil etc,etc.

[Steve K (IA)]

The wifey bought me new tires for my birthday    and I figured before I put the front one on, it would be a good time to replace the seals on my leaky (right) fork. Removing the fork from the bike was easy enough and I was starting to feel pretty good about the project. THENNNNN  I only made it to step #2 in my Clymer manual, lol. I loosened the top bolt chrome bolt, slid the tube down, and found out that I don't have a wrench thin enough to hold the locknut. Anyone know what size the locknut is? I'm gonna have to go to some stores to try and find a thin wrench. Any other tips that you guys can share would also be appreciated. I'm a little concerned about messing this job up. It looks a little complicated and I'm not exactly a Master Mechanic!

Thanks in advance!

The wrench in the Honda tool kit works.

[PSUbag]

Thanks for all the help guys. The hardest part was pulling up the pushrod far enough to get the lock washer underneath.

I got it all put back together Tuesday evening and it's rained    here ever since! I've got a Valk in my garage with 2 brand new Avons and a (hopefully) non-leaking fork seal and can't take a test ride!   

'98 Standard with 106,000 miles, and I still love it like I did when it was new! 

[RonW]

The hardest part was pulling up the pushrod far enough to get the lock washer underneath.

Oh no, it's not. Using a ¼-inch ratchet to push down the spring collar (metal tube) does the job easily. You only need to depress it a mm or two to slip out the spring seat stopper (washer). The ratchet allows you a free hand to pull out the washer. That said, legend has it that some forum members even pull down the spring collar by gripping it with their hands. Shoulda asked.


*Disclaimer: I don't know how safe it is using a ¼-inch ratchet that doesn't have a rubber grip (for slip resistance).

[RP#62]

I made a tool for that.
-RP

[RonW]

That's a difficult jig to visualize from scratch, er, deceivingly simple after it's done. Those are internal threads (?) inside the hollow threaded rod to couple it to the damper rod. In that way, screwing the threaded rod Up presses the spring collar Down, the desired direction. By the looks of it, threads weren't absolutely necessary on the shafts of the knurled bolts. The threads would only end up getting stripped anyway and spares tapping female threads in the vertical arms as well.

[edit] RP#62, are there female threads in the jig's body where the threaded rod goes through it? Just realized there's a nut on the topside portion of the threaded rod.

[RP#62]

Yes, the all-thread has internal metric threads that screw on to the damper rod. You screw it on then slide the yoke down the rod and you put the pins in the holes on the spacer tube.  The knurled one is threaded and the other pin is fixed.  Then you hold the rod and turn the big nut with a wrench and that pulls up on the damper rod, while pushing down on the spacer tube.  This takes the tension off so you can easily get stopper washer out.  I got tired of fighting it and then having to fish for the damper rod.
-RP

[RonW]

I hope you didn't mind all the minutiae. I make jigs to facilitate my trade work, and appreciate the planning behind the finished product. Mind you, with wood, not metal.

[RP#62]

No problem.