The Good, the Bad, and the almost Ugly....

[Stanley Steamer]

and NO, I'm not talking about looking at myself looking in a mirror....I changed the oil in tha Valk today...and I broke my new Mighty Vac in by changing the brake fluid in the front and rear brakes....I had to install a Speedbleeder in the rear caliper, no problem there and I started with the rear brakes...worked like a charm....then I moved on to the front brakes...everything went pretty smooth but I almost had an O shiot moment when I was fixing to bleed the left front caliper when I turned the speedbleeder the wrong way...it took me about a half a second to realize I was looking at it backwards and was tightening instead of loosening the bleeder..it's a wonder I didn't break it off in there...definately going to be more careful next time with that side....and while I was at it, I set-up to bleed the clutch fluid but one of the reservoir screws was stuck and it was buggering it up, so I stopped and will wait until I can order some new screws for all 3 of those reservoirs...(I need to order a rear brake caliper bolt also while I'm at it)...

Next was the oil...it went smoothly without me getting much on me or the floor(used one of the doggy soaker pads under the oil pan)...and I even tightened up the exhaust acorn nuts while I was at it(only two were loose).....

I replaced the Foglight bulbs with the PROPER 35 Watt bulbs instead of the 55W ones....Thanks to Big Mike for sending me two new 35 Watt bulbs.. .I checked again, but I still have a slight gap in the left side pod where the light has more of a gap at the bottom than the right side light...I will have to play with the adjustment screw one night and see if that helps, otherwise, it is something I overlooked when changing the bulbs...and it seems like there was some directions somewhere telling how to adjust those foglights against a wall.....

All that's left to do now is have my front tire replaced before the Blue/Gray ride...it's a Metz with 10,800 miles on it and looks like it could go a little longer, but I'm not taking a chance on it....

Joe mentioned good Friends, well I can relate to that....Big Mike has really helped me out with the podlights, and I'm going to be getting one of the Dragon covers from him to be sporting at the BG ride....Thanks Mike!!....

I bought one of those wheel chocks from Harbor Freight($~40 one)...and used one of the .22 concrete anchors to mount it in the center of my bike shed...it was very helpful working on the podlights and for replacing the rear brake oil...I just don't leave the bike in there all the time because I can't lock the front wheel up if I did(not that that would slow down a determined crook... )....

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get everything ready for all the riding next month...I'm needing this trip up North pretty bad.....I'm looking forward to it!!...

[Doc Moose]

Don't fergit: As Strider always mentions, gots the papers and passport in order for crossing the M-D Line. 

[3W-lonerider]

as far as those screws go..i would'nt order them from the dealer..just go to ace hardware and get some new stainless steel screws.. thats what i have had in mine for 8 years now..and have never had a problem getting them loose any time i need to..the buggered up screw..sears makes a little screw extractor kit that will work wonders at getting it out.

[Stanley Steamer]

make sure it has the proper thread count and length....there's an ACE hardware store a couple of miles from here.....

OH, and I do have my Passport.....I'll have to check in with Customs at the MD line??.....

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

The Blue / Gray Ride is coming on soon  ...Are you going to be at Britmans ride in North Carolina ?

[Stanley Steamer]

I am NOT going to be making his ride this year...the "Boss" can't take any leave for Vacation until the end of this month since she has to back up a couple of other folks at her job while they are on vacation this month....and she told me that even then, we might have to wait until June....but I already have the BG ride set in stone to her and she ain't getting me that weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!

[hubcapsc]

as far as those screws go..i would'nt order them from the dealer..just go to ace hardware and get some new stainless steel screws.. thats what i have had in mine for 8 years now..and have never had a problem getting them loose any time i need to..the buggered up screw..sears makes a little screw extractor kit that will work wonders at getting it out.

Mine were rusty, and I got tired of looking at them. They are a weird thread count and
you have to have a special screwdriver to mate up with the almost-phillips head on
the OEM ones. Locally I couldn't find stainless ones, so I got OEM ones from HDL... $2.50
each. I have a $2 ratcheting screwdriver with a tray full of interchangeable bits... one of
them fits great...

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

Stanley, maybe you dont know the secret to breaking the screws loose on them master cylinder reservoirs. 

First, you gots to make sure you are using the right size driver (many people grab a screwdriver that is too small thinking it is the right size.)  Second that it is in good shape (not worn out)  Then, you stick the driver into the screw and tap it with a light weight hammer once or twice.  This breaks the bond dissimilar metals corroding slightly can cause and now it will unscrew much easier.

I have buggered up many a screw head until learning this trick........rarely happens now

[Madmike]

Here's some sources for getting the correct fitting tools for those JIS phillips style screws .........

http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html

http://www.centralhobbies.com/Tools/jis.html

http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/5073-Genuine-Japanese-Industrial-Standard-Screwdriver-Set.aspx