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CASABROKER
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« on: January 22, 2012, 01:45:58 PM » |
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Check manual checked this board. How do you get the drive shaft out to check splines. Drive is off some said they just pull on it and it comes out. My comes up about 1/16 Inch and stops. Clymers say put axle in final drive backwards and rotate shaft. Any help thanks,
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2012, 02:10:05 PM » |
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Once I had to hold onto the driveshaft, with the pumpkin hanging down, and accelerate them towards the ground, stopping short to let inertia pop the pumpkin off... (outside, not over a concrete floor  )... I hope yours isn't stuck on there for any of the same reasons mine was...   -Mike |
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2012, 03:07:07 PM » |
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It should just pull out. Might stick a bit but it is not held in there by anything other than the friction from the oil seal and from the splines on the end. Just keep working at it.
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1997 Standard   |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2012, 03:24:33 PM » |
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That is incorrect!
There is a wire retaining ring at the end of the pinion that is holding it in.
You have to work the axle out by continuously pulling the axle from the pumpkin while working the axle in different directions in order to get the ring to compress a bit and allow the axle to be removed.
If you hit the two with force you chance breaking the lip on the axle.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2012, 04:11:50 PM » |
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Thanks for the info, hadn't realized that, mine just slid out with a bit of pulling.
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1997 Standard |
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CASABROKER
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« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2012, 08:25:37 PM » |
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Got that sucker out, pot the axle in put on my black and decker workmate thing tighten it down and pulled and rolled it finally came out. Plenty of grease not moly . What the best grease to relube Moly or another type.?
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #6 on: January 23, 2012, 04:59:29 AM » |
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Got that sucker out, pot the axle in put on my black and decker workmate thing tighten it down and pulled and rolled it finally came out. Plenty of grease not moly . What the best grease to relube Moly or another type.?
There's holes in the bottom of the Pinion cup...  Make sure the holes are not clogged up with goo, put a small amount (manual sez .02 oz, but I can't measure stuff to that kind of accuracy) of grease (manual sez moly grease, that's grease with 2 or 3 percent molybdenum in it) and put it back together. If everything goes as designed, final drive fluid will lubricate your pinion cup and stuff will look like this next time you take it apart:  -Mike |
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CASABROKER
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« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2012, 09:49:26 AM » |
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@hubcapsc Do you change the seal too??
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2012, 10:00:02 AM » |
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@hubcapsc Do you change the seal too??
I don't, generally... The picture at the top of the thread that shows my failed seal, that was a new seal  it failed, and my pinion cup and shaft were toast in one tire. When something that shouldn't have failed fails, I have to think probably I did something wrong, but I don't know what it could have been... I'd say, inspect the seal and get a new one if there's any doubt... -Mike |
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Bigwolf
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« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2012, 11:20:34 AM » |
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I had put 6K miles on my bike since I bought it. It was time for new tires and this is what I found.  Notice a portion of the lip of the seal was torn and turned backwards. I suspect that the last time service was performed, the drive shaft was inserted into the U-joint and then the final drive installed in the swing arm. If you put the shaft in the pinion cup first you can see the seal and know that it is in stalled properly. Then put the shaft and final drive into the swing arm and all will be well. I believe the seal will last a long time if service is performed properly. Wolf |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2012, 12:44:07 PM » |
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WOW!!!  What a mess. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2012, 08:53:04 AM » |
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Yeah, it's a mess but it actually doesn't look that bad.
A clean up will reveal that it is still in pretty good shape.
Regarding the seal, it sees no turning at all, just a scrunching from the universal action between the axle and the pinion cup so a simple replacement is all that is called for.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Bigwolf
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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2012, 01:23:21 PM » |
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Yeah, it's a mess but it actually doesn't look that bad.
The photo gives the illusion that the teeth are not too bad. In actuality, the teeth have about 1/32 of an inch left at full height. The rest is just pitted and chewed up and rusty even after cleaning. Of course the teeth in the pinion cup were just as gone. It was hard to get them apart because of all the rust on and under the lock ring and also because the teeth were chewed up in such a fashion that they were interlocked. Wolf |
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6pak2go
Member
Posts: 66
Somewhere in New Mexico #30112
Hanover, Indiana
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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2012, 02:34:58 PM » |
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so tell me, how does it get all rusty in the first place? the reason i am asking is because i'm looking at the same thing on mine. i need to know how to prevent this from occurring again. thanks
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lee
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« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2012, 06:32:13 PM » |
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so tell me, how does it get all rusty in the first place? the reason i am asking is because i'm looking at the same thing on mine. i need to know how to prevent this from occurring again. thanks
WATER
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Time is not what is taken but what remains. C. Drewry  |
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6pak2go
Member
Posts: 66
Somewhere in New Mexico #30112
Hanover, Indiana
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« Reply #15 on: July 02, 2012, 05:27:44 AM » |
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GEE THANKS, it is so great to have such an outstanding chemist on this board who gives such revolutionary information. I do so appreciate it.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #16 on: July 02, 2012, 06:48:31 AM » |
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The only normal way to get water into the pinion cup area is from a faulty installed boot. The one that connects the swingarm to the output housing on the motor.
Ride with a poorly installed boot while raining and it will surely happen.
Too much water and it will invade the pumpkin interior and then form an emulsion with the gear oil.
A quick inspection of the gear oil will reveal whether or not, water has gotten in! It becomes a yellowish opaque liquid, maybe even white. Whatever, it's bad for the gears and bearings and needs immediate attention.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Rocketman
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« Reply #17 on: July 02, 2012, 08:27:36 AM » |
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Yeah, it's a mess but it actually doesn't look that bad.
The photo gives the illusion that the teeth are not too bad. In actuality, the teeth have about 1/32 of an inch left at full height. The rest is just pitted and chewed up and rusty even after cleaning. Of course the teeth in the pinion cup were just as gone. It was hard to get them apart because of all the rust on and under the lock ring and also because the teeth were chewed up in such a fashion that they were interlocked. Wolf I was thinking that you needed to clean the rust off to properly diagnose this, and you confirmed it. Do you have any post-cleaning pictures? I'm curious. Mark |
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6pak2go
Member
Posts: 66
Somewhere in New Mexico #30112
Hanover, Indiana
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« Reply #18 on: July 02, 2012, 10:07:10 AM » |
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no, i did not clean anything up but i did take some pix of the shaft ends, the cup, one of the four bolts that holds the punkin to swingarm, and the inside of the swingarm. aint sure how to get them on here for you to look at, but the teeth are pretty much shot. i dont think the stealers ever took the punkin off when i have had tires put on, even tho i specufically told them to service the rear end from the u-joint back. the reason i even got into the rear end was to satisfy my own self now that it's time for tires again. this is the first time that i myself have ever had the wheels off, always depended on others to do what was needed, and we all know how that works out
dont know how to do pix, guess i need to learn,
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #19 on: July 02, 2012, 01:41:48 PM » |
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They probably failed to understand exactly what you wanted,
and then wasn't able to pass on the correct information to the mechanic.
Some people need to be led every step of the way.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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6pak2go
Member
Posts: 66
Somewhere in New Mexico #30112
Hanover, Indiana
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« Reply #20 on: July 02, 2012, 06:31:49 PM » |
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Rocketman, the pix by Wolf is what mine looked like, except my teeth were wore down to about thumbnail width, same in pinion cup.
Ricky, you are right, I did the assuming thing and now am paying the price. At least the flange teeth and it's mate are still good.
I've got new dampers, Belray grease, the Carolina O-rings, and gear oil for the final drive.
Besides the shaft and pinion cup, what other new parts should I put in?
And a big thank you to all that helped and will help. Gene
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vic
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« Reply #21 on: July 02, 2012, 07:09:48 PM » |
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I just serviced my pumpkin and shaft. In addition to the parts that you mentioned, I also always change the thrust washer, stopper ring on the end of the shaft that goes into the pinion cup and the oil seal on the same end of the shaft. The Valk Service manual calls for the stopper ring to be changed and while I'm there, I also change the oil seal for good measure.
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« Last Edit: July 02, 2012, 07:16:15 PM by vic »
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lee
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« Reply #22 on: July 02, 2012, 08:42:13 PM » |
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I can't explain how WATER gets in the pumpkin or the swing arm. Certainly one way is an improperly installed boot at the universal joint. I think another place is the flange where the 4 bolts are. My advice for what every its worth is NEVER use a high pressure hose near the flange. There is no drain or weep hole in the swing arm. Maby it needs one. The seal in the end of the pinion cup is for keeping the grease or oil in the cup. Not for keeping water out. The moly grease or paste breaks down fast when a little water is added. The water seems to stay in the cup when it gets in. The oil in the pumpkin never gets hot enough to boil off the water. I use water proof grease in the cup when I take mine apart, but if the holes are working correctly it gets washed out to. Someone posted here a while back that they sealed the flange with silicone when they put things back together. Maby a good idea. I am thinking seriously about drilling a small weep hole in the bottom of the swing arm close to the flange the next time I take mine apart.  Any body got any other ideas? |
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« Last Edit: July 02, 2012, 08:48:19 PM by lee »
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Time is not what is taken but what remains. C. Drewry |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2012, 03:39:29 AM » |
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Any body got any other ideas?Ride It Hard, Fix It If It Breaks...  The u-joint boot seems like the likely place to get water in there... -Mike
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #24 on: July 03, 2012, 06:13:23 AM » |
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If Honda thought drilling a small hole in the bottom of the swingarm was a good idea they surely would have done that exact thing.
A hole anywhere is simply another means for water intrusion.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Bigwolf
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« Reply #25 on: July 03, 2012, 06:32:19 AM » |
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Rocketman, Do you have any post-cleaning pictures? I'm curious. I did not take any pictures after cleaning the shaft and cup. As soon as I seen the rust I knew I was going to replace those parts. The only reason I cleaned them was to see just how close I came to calling a tow truck. Those old parts are still in my junk pile. If I get time I will take a few photos and post them. I believe the problem with mine started when some previous mechanic tore the seal when installing the shaft into the pinion cup. While the seal is there mainly to keep the grease in, a good seal will keep water out because there is no pressure on the water. A good swingarm boot that is properly installed should keep water out of the swingarm but will not stop condensation or a pressure washer. The swingarm boot on my bike was good and installed properly but the seal was bad and I cannot say how the previous owner cleaned the bike. I never use a pressure washer on my bike. I just had my shaft out again last week and it is well lubed by the final drive oil with some residue of the marine grease I installed the shaft with. Bigwolf |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #26 on: July 03, 2012, 08:22:06 AM » |
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If Honda thought drilling a small hole in the bottom of the swingarm was a good idea they surely would have done that exact thing.
A hole anywhere is simply another means for water intrusion.
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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lee
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« Reply #27 on: July 03, 2012, 10:03:20 AM » |
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OK how about drilling a small hole, tap it and install a screw with a rubber washer.
Then after riding in the rain or washing your bike you could remove the screw and check for water.
Any way you cut it, water is what is causing the rust in the pinion cup problems.
I am just trying to figure out a way to remedy this problem.
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Time is not what is taken but what remains. C. Drewry |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #28 on: July 03, 2012, 10:42:20 AM » |
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I know a real good way to keep pressure washers from forcing water into the swing arm.
ONLY USE A PRESSURE WASHER TO WASH A VALKYRIE IF THE BIKE IS 100YDS FROM THE PRESSURE WASHER!!!
In other words keep that dang thing away from your bike,no business using a pressure washer on a motorcycle....even the ones at the coin wash......NO WAY!
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Brian
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« Reply #29 on: July 03, 2012, 07:10:40 PM » |
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I know a real good way to keep pressure washers from forcing water into the swing arm.
ONLY USE A PRESSURE WASHER TO WASH A VALKYRIE IF THE BIKE IS 100YDS FROM THE PRESSURE WASHER!!!
In other words keep that dang thing away from your bike,no business using a pressure washer on a motorcycle....even the ones at the coin wash......NO WAY!
+1 Chris. Pressure washers are only good to clean the driveway and siding. Even a full stream from the garden hose sprayer is bad in my opinion. |
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