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F6BANGER
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« on: January 24, 2012, 02:09:34 PM » |
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Im trying to figure out my clutch issues...  Did some searching on the bushing and read multiple times about the bushing. It can go "oblong". My push rod #1 fits fairly tight in the bushing #2. http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148534&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1999&fveh=3473How loose is too loose? Symptoms of clutch: Starting off in first gear, sometimes I get chatter, not always. Clutch Lever WILL pull all the way to grip. Bike sometimes starts to move the instant I begin releasing the lever. Other times I can let it out 1/4 of the way before it grabs. The clutch lever has a little play before I feel pressure as I pull it in. While moving, if I let the clutch out slowly, it doesnt go all the way out. Kinda like sticking. If I let it out fast, it goes all the way out. Every once in a while while kinda gettin on it, the clutch slips, and it slips like a mutha. I let off on the throttle and ease back on it and have no slipping.. I have already removed and cleaned the clutch master cylinder and bled the line using a mighty vac. Still having the problem. Gonna pull and clean the slave cylinder and add dot 4 with mighty vac. Guessing Im gonna have to do the inevitable....Prolly the rivits.... Any suggestions? |
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hrapp
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2012, 02:15:53 PM » |
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i had a problem with the brass bushing wearing oblong, watch the wear on the handle too. don't let it go too long or you'll be buying a handle. the dealer sells those bushings for about $10 bucks. i made mine out of brass and drill reamed to fit the pushrod. just like new again. if your handle rattles, its probably time to replace the bushing.
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1997 valkyrie tourer
1972 shovel
2009 vtx 1300r
1995 sportster
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hrapp
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2012, 02:19:55 PM » |
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clutch slipping? what kind of oil you using? don't use anything with moly in it.
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1997 valkyrie tourer
1972 shovel
2009 vtx 1300r
1995 sportster
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F6BANGER
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2012, 02:26:29 PM » |
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i had a problem with the brass bushing wearing oblong, watch the wear on the handle too. don't let it go too long or you'll be buying a handle. the dealer sells those bushings for about $10 bucks. i made mine out of brass and drill reamed to fit the pushrod. just like new again. if your handle rattles, its probably time to replace the bushing.
My levers are Kuryakyn with brass bushings that the screw goes through. They are in great shape. The bushing that the pushrod goes in is fairly tight. You got a pic or your worn out bushing? |
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10614
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2012, 03:12:00 PM » |
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Is it all clean back there? No bugs or road grime caked on is it? Mine was and a little cleaning and lub I was good to go.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2012, 11:21:38 AM » |
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I don't think your symptoms can be explained as a lever issue. The rivet theory makes the most sense to me, especially with the unpredictable engagement point.
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2012, 12:22:48 PM » |
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I don't think your symptoms can be explained as a lever issue. The rivet theory makes the most sense to me, especially with the unpredictable engagement point.
+1 If you get to the point that sometimes you can't pull the lever all the way to the grip, it's a near certainty that the rivets in the damper plates are shearing. |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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Sodbuster
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« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2012, 04:45:36 PM » |
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so ........ is the rivet issue a somewhat common issue or is that caused by burnouts and other types of abuse ??
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VRCC # 30938 '99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse" Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer. You rock !!  |
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98valk
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« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2012, 05:06:43 PM » |
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i had a problem with the brass bushing wearing oblong, watch the wear on the handle too. don't let it go too long or you'll be buying a handle. the dealer sells those bushings for about $10 bucks. i made mine out of brass and drill reamed to fit the pushrod. just like new again. if your handle rattles, its probably time to replace the bushing.
it was posted about 2 yrs ago that a certain suzuki bushing is an exact fit for about $4. a search should bring it up. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Bone
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« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2012, 05:41:44 PM » |
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Valk clutch lever bushing
Suzuki part number 59892-08A00 $3.05
Honda part Number 2285-MBO-006 $10.00
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2012, 06:12:17 PM » |
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so ........ is the rivet issue a somewhat common issue or is that caused by burnouts and other types of abuse ??
It seems to occur most frequently on '97s and '98s in the 60k to 70k range. Allegedly, the problem is caused by sub-par components from a sub-contractor. Usually the friction plates are in fine shape, but since it's apart already... |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2012, 06:26:24 PM » |
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If the lever bushing is worn, it will be obvious, deformed and lotsa play in the lever. Cheap & easy to replace. Should be able to tell at a glance if it's needed.
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Michael K (Az.)
Member
Posts: 2471
"You have to admire a healthy tomatillo!"
Glendale, AZ
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« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2012, 07:53:59 AM » |
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so ........ is the rivet issue a somewhat common issue or is that caused by burnouts and other types of abuse ??
It seems to occur most frequently on '97s and '98s in the 60k to 70k range. Allegedly, the problem is caused by sub-par components from a sub-contractor. Usually the friction plates are in fine shape, but since it's apart already... Sheared rivets on my '97 at about 70k. Had it all done while apart, too. Was pretty interesting keeping it woa'd up during Biketoberfest crowds as I recall. |
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"I'd never join a club that would have me as a member!" G.Marx  |
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F6BANGER
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« Reply #13 on: January 27, 2012, 07:58:50 AM » |
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forgot to mention, I definitely have a hard time putting it in neutral while the engine is running.
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Michael K (Az.)
Member
Posts: 2471
"You have to admire a healthy tomatillo!"
Glendale, AZ
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« Reply #14 on: January 27, 2012, 08:02:21 AM » |
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forgot to mention, I definitely have a hard time putting it in neutral while the engine is running.
EGGSACTLY!!  Pretty tricky ridin the beast for a few days before the dismantle!! |
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"I'd never join a club that would have me as a member!" G.Marx |
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98valk
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« Reply #15 on: January 27, 2012, 10:09:31 AM » |
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clutch slipping? what kind of oil you using? don't use anything with moly in it.
False. Mobil 1 m/c oil has moly in it about 100ppm last time I checked and at one time was actually more than their 15w50 oil. if its over 500ppm then yes can be a problem, actually more so to the starter clutch. usually only high oils will have 500-700ppm of moly, like torco, motul and redline. most others including diesel oils will be around 200ppm plus or minus 100 |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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