Getting harder to get started

[lucky_1_chris]

Lately the bike has become harder and harder to get started. Outside temperature doesn't seem to matter. Full choke, hit the starter and it'll fire right up, but it takes longer to spin up past 2500 (choked) than it usually does. Kill the choke after after it gets up to 25-2700 rpm's and it sputters and misses. Twist the throttle with no choke and it pops and hesitates...acts like it's starving for fuel. Little more choke and throttle for a bit and it'll smooth out like a switch was flipped. Starts and runs just fine for the rest of the day, but when it sits 8 hrs. or more that's when it becomes a problem. Before this started it'd start easy and run fine even down into the 20's. No issues. Fuel mileage has dropped from 30ish to 28ish running my normal weekly routine.

Early in the summer it would occasionally act the same way. Once a week or so it'd take a while to get it running. I figured it was starving for fuel so I rebuilt the petcock and it's been fine until a few weeks ago. I may have damaged the new parts when I installed them and maybe they're starting to fail, but before I rebuild it again I'd like to know what else may cause these symptoms.

Thanks.

Edit: It sits inside on a loading dock all day while I'm at work and the temp rarely gets below 65*. Same issue when I start it in the evening.

[Ricky-D]

First thing I'd suggest Chris, is to drain a little out of each float bowl.

With ethanol enriched gasoline and colder running temperatures condensation is a little more prevalent.

See what that will do!

***

[lucky_1_chris]

First thing I'd suggest Chris, is to drain a little out of each float bowl.

With ethanol enriched gasoline and colder running temperatures condensation is a little more prevalent.

See what that will do!

***

I'll do that tonight after it cools down. Thanks.

[salty1]

Might want to change fuel stops. They don't seem to regulate ethanol addition very well. Lab reports show as much as 20% ethanol in some gases.    Shell and Cheveron reports look the best. Your slow jets may need a shot of cleaner, put about 10 ozs of Techron in at your next fill. It may take a couple of treatments. At 65 F, the bike should respond well in a short period of time IMO.

[rmrc51]

FWIW,,. The ethanol in the gasoline is playing havoc with all engines that are not run regularly! I just had to have all my cards cleaned and serviced. I've been told by my service department to use 'StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment'. I've also found that my local service center for all lawn equipment and the Firehouses in my old area on Long Island and also by my cousin out on Calif also use StarTron along with most marinas.

[giff]

Best place to start is by adding Sea Foam, Techron, or Berryman's B-29. Put a full can of either in
your tank and run it out. Could well be the slow jets and a tank or two will usually do. Also make
sure all your intake clamps are tight.
giff

[MarkT]

I changed my plugs once a dozen years ago, per the manual, and they looked new.  So I said this is BS, the manual is WAY too conservative on that interval - and I haven't changed them since.  The bike started being hard to start gradually - in fact it got to requiring choke when it never used to.  Originally, it only needed choke to start on cold days.  Now it always needed it if the engine wasn't warm.  And lately, very hard to keep it running even with the choke.  Sputter and quit, repeatedly.  I had installed the Kuryakyn valence covers years ago, which make plug changes inconvenient. Changed the plugs, and the trouble went away.  And the gap had eroded to way too big.

[R J]

I'm assuming you are using the choke.

FULL choke that is, not the till it gets hard to push and quit.

I burn ethanol, in fact that is all I can get around here,  still have stock jets, 242K on MGM and I have no problem starting the big boy as long as I use full choke and keep me fingers off the throttle.

He will start just as easy at 5 below as in the 70's.

I use SeaFoam in the winter, and burn that tank almost to the end in the spring. Put one more SeaFoam in a tank and good to go all summer (riding season).

[Daniel Meyer]

Test the petcock function too.

BTW: Plug interval is more so those nice steel plugs don't weld themselves into your expensive aluminum head...also they do breakdown internally (resistance).

[MarkT]

Test the petcock function too.

BTW: Plug interval is more so those nice steel plugs don't weld themselves into your expensive aluminum head...also they do breakdown internally (resistance).

I'm thinkin a dose of anti-seize on the threads might prevent the seizing potential - of course provided the compound doesn't interfere with electrical conductivity, which should have a clean path through the seat and washer anyway.

[cajunito]

FWIW,,. The ethanol in the gasoline is playing havoc with all engines that are not run regularly! I just had to have all my cards cleaned and serviced. I've been told by my service department to use 'StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment'. I've also found that my local service center for all lawn equipment and the Firehouses in my old area on Long Island and also by my cousin out on Calif also use StarTron along with most marinas.

 I'm also using StarTron following the advice of my local Honda mechanic. I have had some idling problems,but have been running it low & slow with StarTron & it seems to be resolving.

[CASABROKER]

A bottle of techron works wonders, available at wally world...

[Daniel Meyer]

Test the petcock function too.

BTW: Plug interval is more so those nice steel plugs don't weld themselves into your expensive aluminum head...also they do breakdown internally (resistance).

I'm thinkin a dose of anti-seize on the threads might prevent the seizing potential - of course provided the compound doesn't interfere with electrical conductivity, which should have a clean path through the seat and washer anyway.

Yep yep! 

[lucky_1_chris]

I didn't drain anything outta the bowls last night. Worked a little late and I was in the bed before the bike was cool. I run a can of seafoam through it every oil change. Last can was about 500 miles ago. Plugs changed about 10-11k ago. I've always used the choke when starting. Maybe I've over used the choke and mucked the plugs up a bit. They're due for a change per the manual anyway. Was gonna change them and check the valve clearance at the next oil change anyway. Prolly just wait for the weekend to check everything. I'll look for water in the bowls, check the petcock after it's sat overnight, and see what the plugs look like. I e got a couple bottles of techron at home, I'll top the tank off and start running the techron through it. Thanks y'all.

[Farther]

If you are riding your bike on a regular basis, I would be very surprised if there is water in the bowls.  Ethanol fuel is a fuel dryer and it takes a lot of water to get to phase seperation.  Just doesn't happen in vehicles that are run regularly and refueled from medium to high through-put stations. 

[lucky_1_chris]

If you are riding your bike on a regular basis, I would be very surprised if there is water in the bowls.  Ethanol fuel is a fuel dryer and it takes a lot of water to get to phase seperation.  Just doesn't happen in vehicles that are run regularly and refueled from medium to high through-put stations. 

I ride nearly every day, and usually fill up at a busy Chevron around the corner from my apartment.

[Bone]

Maybe I've over used the choke and mucked the plugs up a bit. They're due for a change per the manual anyway

Mine ran similar a couple of years back. Pulled #6 spark plug and it was real sooty. Gas was running down the vacuum line from the petcock. There was a tear in the diaphragm of the petcock. The reason I bring this up pulling one plug when it's running bad would be easy.

[Valkpilot]

If you are riding your bike on a regular basis, I would be very surprised if there is water in the bowls.  Ethanol fuel is a fuel dryer and it takes a lot of water to get to phase seperation.  Just doesn't happen in vehicles that are run regularly and refueled from medium to high through-put stations. 

+1

[Ricky-D]

Ok Chris, I guess what these contributors are saying is:

Don't bother to drain the float bowls of a little bit of gas.

Anything helpful there? I don't think so.  Just another example of, well, I'll leave that up to you.

***

[lucky_1_chris]

Ok Chris, I guess what these contributors are saying is:

Don't bother to drain the float bowls of a little bit of gas.

Anything helpful there? I don't think so.  Just another example of, well, I'll leave that up to you.

***

I intend to check the bowls for water this weekend. I think folks are offering their advice and opinions, and I don't think it's their intention to slam you in this thread.

I do appreciate everyone's input.  Thanks, y'all.

[roadhamr]

Lucas Oil makes a product called Ethanol Safeguard and it will take care of the negative side effects of ethanol in the fuel. you may also simply have carbs that need to be syncronized. if you are mechanically competent this is not hard to do but you should check the valves for adjustment first and then synchronize the carbs. you will need vacuum guages or mercury sticks to do this. i have a mechanic do it for me as i dont do it often enough to do it in a thorough and competent way and i dont have the right tools.

[Titan]

Since I haven't seen this mentioned, have you checked these screws? Both sides.