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Author Topic: Alternator or something else?  (Read 1256 times)
CASABROKER
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Posts: 274



« on: February 04, 2012, 10:36:53 PM »

went for a ride today.  stopped for gas slow starter wouldn't start.  Let sit for a few  and slowly fired.  Rode about 15 miles and the tach stopped,  knew there would be a problem..  Pulling a hill she craps out no more, clikin starter out of juice.  Pull battery was kinda dry put some water in it.  Went into a river canyon she died again coast to bottom.  Screwed now no cell service.  Several bikers saw me gave them the dead sign.  Long story short kind enough to take me to get another battery. On the way back brought the core in and had them check charge only 12.3 volts not good.  got 12 mi from home drained the new battery.  had a freind get me home recharged and finally got her home.  10 pm

The unusual thing is that the speedo and tach lights were out even with the hot battery times 2.  Any ideas?  I hope it's cheaper than a alternator.  I will always give a hard look to anyone riding stuck on the side of the rode these guys saved my ass let alone a lot on $$$$$$$$$$$$
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Don07tncav
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Posts: 191


West Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2012, 02:42:46 AM »

Did you check the main fuse under the right hand side cover?
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Keep two up!

valk2001
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Posts: 57


There is nothing like riding a Fat Girl....

Darlington, SC


« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2012, 05:57:26 AM »

Sounds exactly what happened when my alternator went out.  You can put a voltmeter across the battery post with the bike running and it should read at least 13.5 volts at 1500 rpm.  It stays at battery voltage, most likely alternator is done.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2012, 06:36:18 AM »

Could be the starter relay, specifically the connector at the top and the fuse on the top. I think corrosion here could blow the main fuse too. My bike started dying on me and barely starting at one point and this was the cause. The main fuse had corroded into the holder and the whole relay had to be replaced. I use dielectric grease on the fuse and connector now. The same stuff used on auto taillight bulbs.

http://www.kruzer.sg/2008/08/12/switch-assembly/

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi?read=1372694

Rattlebars site below has a great diagram and write up about it. It's at the bottom of the page so scroll down.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
greggh
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Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2012, 06:59:06 AM »

the alt took a dump.
check out a Web sitr called motorcycle alternator rebuild site
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2012, 07:55:52 AM »

As has been said, it could well be the the alternator. I usually start with checking the least expensive, easiest to check things first. But that's just me.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
greggh
Member
*****
Posts: 383


OMAHA NE


« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2012, 09:57:58 AM »

A+  On the advise offered on this board.
The problems you have given are exactly what mine gave me, only dif is that I was able to get it home first.
I followed the advise given here and found the alternator to be toast.
I have just sent my old alt (core) to Ken at the MARS web site for a rebuilt replacement.  Much cheaper then buying a new alt.
But take the advise listed above come to your own conclusions and do as you best see fit.
If the alt is truly the problem then have a look at this site.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

Best of luck.
Greggh
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2012, 04:55:40 PM »

Sure sounds like the alt died. Mine did the same thing. I put a goldwing alt. on it and that was almost 50 thousand miles ago.  I installed a signal dynamic volt meter on mine bike and I always know the conditions of my battery now. It's a little led light that changes from red to yellow to green as volts increase. Yellow is ok at idle but mine says green most all the time. cheap and easy to wire and gives me peace on mind.
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