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Author Topic: pulling carbs tomorrow do I need a jack under the engine at all times?  (Read 2790 times)
goldwing55706
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Posts: 9


« on: May 12, 2009, 06:26:46 PM »

I'm going to pull the carbs on the Valk tomorrow and I have a couple of questions:
1.  According to the service manual, I need to pull the rear upper engine mounts.  Do I need a jack under the engine to support it while the rear upper mounts are removed?
2.  The Clymers manual says to drain the cooling system before pulling the carbs but the Honda service manual doesn't say anyting about draining the antifreeze.  I'll believe the Honda Service Manual and leave the anti-freeze in the engine.  Is that o.k.?
3.  I was thinking of desmogging at the same time.  Is it possible to leave the metal tubes that connect to the pair valves in place and just plug the rubber hose (the end that was previously connected to the pair valve)?
Thank you,
Jon
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kirksmb
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Posts: 1


« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2009, 08:32:12 PM »

i pulled mine while on here side stand and did not remove coolant or put on jack stand upright.  it was a bit tight but the whole bank of 6 carbs did come out of the left side.   puttin her back in and getting the airbox back in is a pain. 
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Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2009, 01:12:40 AM »

When I desmogged mine I left the tubes on, just plugged the rubber hoses that connected to the pair valve.  I have not had a problem.  It made the job real easy and if the smog police require that I re-install the smog equipment later, it will be simple.  police
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2009, 06:24:59 AM »

Nope,, they will come off without doing either[if I remember correctly].. My suggestion[which differs from others] is that if the carburetors are removed then why not do a complete desmog and be done with it.. If you leave the tubes plugged and hanging eventually one of those will decide to unplug itself.. Things get interesting when that happens.. The best desmog article is the one written by our very own Normand[Quexpress].. 
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Warlock
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Magnolia, Ms


WWW
« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2009, 06:49:52 AM »

The whole carb bank can be removed like someone stated on the side stand. Remove the tan, air box, disconnect the throttle cables, remove the intake tubes and you should be able to remove the whole setup. Also disconnect the choke cable. Not a hard job, just a little time. Do you desmogg while you are at it.
David
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I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby
goldwing55706
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Posts: 9


« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2009, 06:51:03 AM »

Kirksmb - Thanks for your reply.  I have pulled the air box before so I know that it is a bear to get back on.  I tied the "snorkel tubes" together with string last time and it seemed to work o.k.
Doctor_J - Thanks for your reply.  It is great to hear from someone who has actually plugged the hoses and had success.
Patrick - Thanks for your reply.  It is true that eventually "one of the lines will unplug itself".  However, I was just reading about people who have plugged the holes where the smog lines came out of with freeze (soft) plugs only to have the freeze (soft) plugs blow out.  It is easier to re-plug a hose than insert another soft plug especially if you're miles from home.  However, I do have soft plugs in the garage and I may reconsider once I'm in there.

Thanks everyone!
Jon
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goldwing55706
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2009, 06:52:16 AM »

Thank you,
Jon
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16769


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2009, 07:37:10 AM »

The whole carb bank can be removed like someone stated on the side stand. Remove the tan, air box, disconnect the throttle cables, remove the intake tubes and you should be able to remove the whole setup. Also disconnect the choke cable. Not a hard job, just a little time. Do you desmogg while you are at it.
David

Henry's throttle cable came off at the carb end the other day when we were lubing it, I was glad I had mine to look at to
put it back right.

I removed the carb end of one of my choke cables and the two associated screws, four plastic nubbins and the spring the other day. Even though I was
warned to pay attention to how it came apart, I was glad I had the other one to look at when I was putting it back.

This stuff is probably easy and obvious to some folks, YMMV...

-Mike
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MP
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1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2009, 07:39:27 AM »

I just took out the pare valve and the other two boxes.  I then took bolts that just fit the hoses, smeared them with silicone, inserted them into the hoses, and clamped them.  The bike runs great.  I figure that will last a LONG time.  And, if the EPA under Nobama insists that all vehicles meet standards, it will be very easy to put the valves back on.
MP
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
Tropic traveler
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Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2009, 05:17:39 PM »

Fun job. Roll Eyes
You can leave it on the side stand. Here's proof:




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Ken Tarver
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Posts: 944


North Mississippi


« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2009, 05:46:02 AM »

for only a few bucks.....or almost zero $ if you have a few 2x4's lying around the shop or barn, you can have a drive in chock to always hold the lady upright. Only thing, if you change brand of tire, may be a slight difference in tire width which would require a mod to the chock.

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goldwing55706
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Posts: 9


« Reply #11 on: May 14, 2009, 06:43:13 AM »

Once again thanks to everyone who replied!
Ken, I may have to make me one of those drive in chocks - thanks!
Jon
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