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Author Topic: Rear Gear Lube  (Read 1461 times)
KSDragonRider
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Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« on: February 12, 2012, 06:29:16 AM »

Ok, getting everything ready to pull final maint on the rear drive, mount a darkside tire, and just do a general inspection of the whole back end...

I read that molly grease or molly paste is what you use.  This is what the local parts store has, and before I put it in my bike, I want to make sure something like this is what you guys are recommending, or what you are using...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Coastal-1-lb-453-592-g-industrial-moly-extreme-pressure-grease/_/N-25ap?itemIdentifier=561753_0_0_

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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2012, 06:56:55 AM »

From quite a few posts of this forum regarding that particular subject:

(Grease for differential)

Seems like the type, or kind of grease is less important,

As is regular inspection and cleaning, and refreshing the grease.

10k miles is usually the figure along with making it a yearly to-do.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
KSDragonRider
Member
*****
Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2012, 07:28:22 AM »

Roger that Ricky.  I have not done one of these before, and there is alot of reading on this subject, but not alot of alike opinions on the matter.

After rereading several of the previous posts, I see that the grease goes on the splines of the pinion cup and the u-joint (both ends of the drive shaft) and Moly Paste is to be used on the final drive splines. 

I see that this is the recomended in the book.


However, in reading, I see that some people are using grease all the way around, and others are using other products for the moly paste.

The bike has 31k on it, and I will bet that the last two owners (my father, and my uncle) never took the back tire off but paid others to change out the rubber for them... so I am pretty scared of what im going to find when i pull it apart.  One thing is for sure though, I want to get it cleaned up and done right so I can get the bad bad thoughts out of my head. 

So, what are you guys using for moly paste, or are you using a product like the moly grease all the way around?
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
sandy
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Posts: 5403


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2012, 07:35:07 AM »

The pictured grease will work just fine. The Moly reference is probably 2-3% moly content. The EP means extreme pressure which means it will stick and stay put where you want it. I use Bel Ray but currently I'm testing a Lucas EP grease. When my rear tire wears out, I'll post photos of my splines. Here's a shot at 112K miles. I now have 125K and still waiting for the Avon to wear out.



Ok, getting everything ready to pull final maint on the rear drive, mount a darkside tire, and just do a general inspection of the whole back end...

I read that molly grease or molly paste is what you use.  This is what the local parts store has, and before I put it in my bike, I want to make sure something like this is what you guys are recommending, or what you are using...
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Coastal-1-lb-453-592-g-industrial-moly-extreme-pressure-grease/_/N-25ap?itemIdentifier=561753_0_0_


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Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2012, 09:48:22 AM »

I use and do exactly what the Honda Shop Manual says and my splines look like
 new.
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2012, 10:12:44 AM »

Lot of different opinions on what grease works best. A good quality E P and or water proof seems to be the similar thread with most folks. The three O rings and a thrust washer should take care of you. Let us know what you find out when you open her up. You REALLY DON'T want to see red dust and rust. Hope who ever was doing the maintenance before you got it was doing it right. You will know one way or the other as soon as you open it up. coolsmiley RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
KSDragonRider
Member
*****
Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2012, 11:31:55 AM »

Hope who ever was doing the maintenance before you got it was doing it right. You will know one way or the other as soon as you open it up. coolsmiley RIDE SAFE.

I am hoping that all is well in there, but the fear that it is not right is making me go ahead and hurry the process along even though I will not need a new tire till mid season... I have decided to go ahead and do maint, and put on a car tire while im at it then I should not have to worry about it again till this time next year... I only put 3k on the bike since I got it in May, and as soon as I got it I joined this board and the more I read, the more I worry about it... So its just time to put these fears to bed.  Even if it is red and junk, I would rather find that in Feb. in my own garage than in July 500 miles from home!
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2012, 01:19:54 PM »

Exactly the reason i do my maintenance in the winter. coolsmiley Get it out the way = more riding time. uglystupid2 I put a smidge over 11000 miles on the grease and O rings (55000+ on the ghurl) and they - the splines - look fine/good great/fantastic-see where this is headed?? 2funny When i get to the 100000 mile mark i want to see the machining marks in my splines-as i do now. cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2012, 04:06:19 PM »

Do you have a manual ?? Its a good investment.. As for the driveshaft, use very little lube in the pinion cup and make sure the differential weep holes are clear.. Thats how its lubed.. Also loosen the 4 differential retainers and tighten after the axle retainer is tightened.. If you're concerned about the splines just post a pic.. They should look like Sandy's..
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KSDragonRider
Member
*****
Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2012, 04:16:19 PM »

Yeah, got a manual, and just helped a friend do his last weekend, and his splines where a nice dark rust color... he thought it was normal and was not going to do anything.. being late in the afternoon, all we could buy was the grease i posted earlier, and put it back together cleaned up and regreased with that EP moly... His where worn down some, about 1/4 of the tooth was gone...



This is what his looked like, he said he would work on finding another one before this time next year so he could swap it out then...
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
alph
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Posts: 5513


Eau Claire, WI.


« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2012, 04:23:04 AM »

I use and do exactly what the Honda Shop Manual says and my splines look like
 new.
even after 10,000 miles!!   cooldude  (just messing with you!!)

the thing about it is to check 'em once in a while.  make it a rule to tare it apart every 10,000 miles and inspect 'em, it's worth the piece of mind....
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Promote world peace, ban all religion.

Ride Safe, Ride Often!!  cooldude
KSDragonRider
Member
*****
Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2012, 05:20:45 AM »

Planning on it just being a every winter thing... dont see me putting 10k on most years, but for no more than it costs to tear it apart and check, (just orings and grease) it would be worth the piece of mind anyway.  Besides while the bags are off you get a good look at the brakes and everything else...
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2012, 11:56:53 AM »

And speaking of the rear brakes-had to rebuild the rear brake caliper. Got the pistons out and cleaned them and the piston bores with something very similar to Scotch Brite. Found it my local hardware store-same color as Scotch Brite-felt the same and about half the cost. I'd go look in the garage but we have 5 or 6 inches of snow on the ground with more falling as we speak. 2funny Damn it all i need a wind in the face ride A S A P. Wink RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
John U.
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2012, 04:58:08 PM »

Yeah, got a manual, and just helped a friend do his last weekend, and his splines where a nice dark rust color... he thought it was normal and was not going to do anything.. being late in the afternoon, all we could buy was the grease i posted earlier, and put it back together cleaned up and regreased with that EP moly... His where worn down some, about 1/4 of the tooth was gone...



This is what his looked like, he said he would work on finding another one before this time next year so he could swap it out then...


Those splines are not just 1/4 worn out, they are ready to strand their owner somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Your friend needs to make finding a new rear end a priority.
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