Accessory wire connector

[al v]

I'm working on hooking up a kury power port to plug my GPS into.

I have found the accessory wires under the right side cover.

My goal is to use the accessory wire to turn a relay on and off so that the power port goes off with key.

I have a Garim GPS that will auto shutdown when it sees a loss of power.

I see the two wires inside the boot have a female end.

My question is, how is everyone connecting to the female ends?

Crimp, solder, or pin connector of some kind?

My preference would be a soldered on pin connector if I knew the right one to use.

[BF]

I just used a crimped on bullet style (male) connector.  You've already got the female end on the accessory wire.  Plug and play.  

btw....have you thought about adding on a fuse block for future needs?  Centech makes a popular unit that alot of folks use,

http://www.centechwire.com/products/index.shtml

but I like (and have/use) the PC-8 better.....

http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html

[al v]

BF,

Thanks for the tip. I see I can get male bullet connectors at the local autozone.

I was thinking the same kind of solution, I just didn't know what they were called.

The power panel might be a good idea. I'll have to give my possible future accessory needs some thought.

[John Schmidt]

The bullet connectors at Autozone aren't the same size as the ones on the bike.

[BF]

I found some at Lowe's that worked.  

Well.....I think they came from Lowe's.  I actually found them in my electrical stuff drawer in my standup tool box.....but I think I got them at Lowe's.....or maybe Radio Shack.   

[al v]

Thanks for the heads up John.

On napa's web site, I see there a couple of sizes of bullet connectors...

.157, .176, .180, and .188

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsList.aspx?k=male+bullet+connector&t=%3FNe%3D25000%26Ntt%3D%26N%3D25011%26Ntk%3DCategory

Does anyone know the correct size?

[gordonv]

Standard automotive bullet connectors are 4mm. Our Hondas use a 3.5mm.

As I posted before, vintageconnections.com has the correct ones, along with all the multi prong connectors, male/female, that you could ever want or need. I have found the bullets also at my local electronics store.

[22Dasher]

Glad I saw this, I ahve a question, I'm looking at doing something like this for my driving lights and my GPS. Is there a way to wire the PC-8 so that it only powers up after the bike has started?

 Something about where I read the extra draw on the starter shortens the life and that's why the headlight shuts down when we start our bikes. So I was looking at somehow wiring in a new panel for my aux lights and GPS to do just that.

James 

[BF]

Glad I saw this, I ahve a question, I'm looking at doing something like this for my driving lights and my GPS. Is there a way to wire the PC-8 so that it only powers up after the bike has started?

 Something about where I read the extra draw on the starter shortens the life and that's why the headlight shuts down when we start our bikes. So I was looking at somehow wiring in a new panel for my aux lights and GPS to do just that.

James  

I could be wrong here (I'm certainly no wiring guru.....maybe one of the real guru's will chime in here to help), but I don't believe that it's the starter that you're worried about.....it's the starter switch/button that can be damaged from having a bunch of stuff powered up when you hit the switch.  That's why you want to use a relay when you add things so all of that amp draw doesn't go straight through the starter button when pushed.  

[22Dasher]

I knew it had something to do with starter  So it's the starter switch that gets burned up? OK so if I use the PC-8 with the relay and plug into one of the accessory plugs will this shut down the aux lights and GPS when I go to start the bike as the same as trhe headlight or do I need to find another wire to connect to?

James



[/quote]
I could be wrong here (I'm certainly no wiring guru.....maybe one of the real guru's will chime in here to help), but I don't believe that it's the starter that you're worried about.....it's the starter switch/button that can be damaged from having a bunch of stuff powered up when you hit the switch.  That's why you want to use a relay when you add things so all of that amp draw doesn't go straight through the starter button when pushed.  
[/quote]

[GreenLantern57]

I knew it had something to do with starter  So it's the starter switch that gets burned up? OK so if I use the PC-8 with the relay and plug into one of the accessory plugs will this shut down the aux lights and GPS when I go to start the bike as the same as trhe headlight or do I need to find another wire to connect to?

James

I could be wrong here (I'm certainly no wiring guru.....maybe one of the real guru's will chime in here to help), but I don't believe that it's the starter that you're worried about.....it's the starter switch/button that can be damaged from having a bunch of stuff powered up when you hit the switch.  That's why you want to use a relay when you add things so all of that amp draw doesn't go straight through the starter button when pushed.  
[/quote]
[/quote]
Search is your friend. There is a recent thread that points to a fellow rider's site with all kinds of wiring suggestions. Once you see the skematic for the wiring you will see there is no relay that kills the lights but the starter switch is actually part of the light circuit. Not pressed in, the starter contacts complete the light circuit. When you press in the starter, the light circuit is interupted and the starter circuit is engaged.  So, if you add spot lights to the existing circuit, you actually add current through the starter switch.

I really like the PC-8 set-up, looks well worth the money.

[BF]

I knew it had something to do with starter   So it's the starter switch that gets burned up? OK so if I use the PC-8 with the relay and plug into one of the accessory plugs will this shut down the aux lights and GPS when I go to start the bike as the same as trhe headlight or do I need to find another wire to connect to?

James

Yep....starter switch gets burned up.  Chet has a page on maintenance for the Honda starter switch.....

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

To answer your question....no.  The lights and your GPS won't turn off like the headlight does.

However, the starter switch is protected by the relay on the PC-8 from your heavy amp draw items such as your light bar lights (they'll have a relay too).  

The PC-8 comes with it's own relay, but you still want to use a relay every time you add something that needs it's own relay such as lights on a light bar or fog lights that you might want to put on your crash bar or something like that that's a high wattage item.  Usually, when you buy something like that, they'll come with they're own wiring that includes a relay (but you'll still want to wire them through the PC-8 (or another type/brand of fuse panel) and not direct to the bike's battery). 

However, small wattage items like a cell phone or GPS don't normally require a relay because as I understand it, they're not pulling alot of amps.  Driving lights and fog lights do.....they need a relay.  

So when you wire a GPS through the PC-8, the starter switch is already protected by the PC-8's relay.  

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/basicrelay.html

[PhredValk]

You don't have to add the driving lights to the starter circuit. Power them off a relay, and use the starter switch to trigger the relay (the wire that turns on your headlight, so the running lights turn off for starting). The trigger for the relay requires almost no current, so doesn't add to the draw on the switch, and they won't be on when the key is in Aux.

Add some kind of fuse block under the seat (on a relay so it's hot only with the key). There's lots of room, and if you want to add audio or LED lighting later, you're already ready.

Also, I used a cheap needle-type circuit tester and found out my Aux circuit is dead. I tested everything and found a connector that is hot only when the key is in Run, one that is only hot when the key is in Aux, and another that is on in both positions. Gives me options for any device/lighting choice.
Fred.
 

[dukesguy]

For those of you running the PC-8 fuse block and relay, where do you mount them? What size leads did you order? I have a '98 standard. Thanks

[ptgb]

For those of you running the PC-8 fuse block and relay, where do you mount them? What size leads did you order? I have a '98 standard. Thanks

On my wife's trike (a 2003 Standard converted) the PC-8 is velcro'ed to the battery box lid. It just fits. Works well, when I have to get to the battery, I simply pull it off and my wires are strung so there is enough slack to get it out of the way. The relay leads I think were either the 18 or 24 inch, can't remember. There was plenty of wire.

On my Interstate, the PC-8 is attached to a custom made stainless bracket that attaches to the right speaker housing up in the fairing.

[BF]

For those of you running the PC-8 fuse block and relay, where do you mount them? What size leads did you order? I have a '98 standard. Thanks

I put my PC-8 between the the OEM tool pouch and the battery......the part where the original manual and paperwork went.  I had to dremel the battery box cover just a tad, but it works great.  Here's a thread with some pics of my PC-8 install.  Note that I'm in the middle of a Valk rehab and I'm still running wires to the PC-8, so the pics are just of it's install without any accessory wires running to it yet.......

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,38349.0.html

When I ordered the PC-8, I ordered it with the 30" leads and added the option to have both battery leads the same length.

I didn't want the leads running over the top of the battery, so I ran them a little long and around the over flow bottle.  You could probably get away with the 24" leads, but I'd rather have more than I need than not have them long enough. 

[al v]

For plugging into the accessory wire plug, I was not able to find the 3.5mm bullet jack connectors anywhere locally. As mentioned above, the standard size in an auto parts store is 4mm and is too large.

In the end, I ordered the 3.5mm bullet jack connectors from http://www.vintageconnections.com, part number SB2. The order was shipped out the same day and arrived via USPS in a couple of days.

This photo shows a red and green wire that I plugged into the accessory plugs.



This photo shows the finished wiring setup with a relay added into the positive wire of a Kuryakyn power point wiring harness.
 


Came out perfect. Nice and clean.

The relay is now turning the power point on and off with the key.