offroadchevy806
|
 |
« on: February 17, 2012, 06:20:06 PM » |
|
Ok, let just get this out of the way, i have replaced the fan switch i did the test to see if the fan was bad but grounding the wire, fan works!!! Put the new thermo fan switch in and same thing, fan does not kick on i sit there and watch my gauge reach 240+ then the overheating light comes on, i also have a new water pump as well, so water is being circulated through the system. what should i try next??? i am just puzzled  i would love to here from some of yall tonight while i am still in the garage playing
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
YoungPUP
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2012, 06:33:10 PM » |
|
Just throwing "stuff" at the wall to see what sticks. Use your meter and see if the wires going from the switch to the fan are good.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2012, 06:42:21 PM » |
|
Just throwing "stuff" at the wall to see what sticks. Use your meter and see if the wires going from the switch to the fan are good.
it should be right? since i can ground it and it comes on
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BonS
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2012, 06:53:20 PM » |
|
Have you run the engine with the radiator cap off? I'll bet you never see any circulation or very little. The thermostat is stuck shut or very nearly.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2012, 06:54:52 PM » |
|
Have you run the engine with the radiator cap off? I'll bet you never see any circulation or very little. The thermostat is stuck shut or very nearly.
replaced it two weeks ago
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BonS
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2012, 06:56:08 PM » |
|
Look for circulation and I'll bet you figure it out.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BonS
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2012, 06:57:31 PM » |
|
Or - does the Rad feel hot - top and bottom?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2012, 06:59:00 PM » |
|
Or - does the Rad feel hot - top and bottom?
yeah i see circulation, and the rad feels hot on both sides of the rad, and top and bottom
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
indybobm
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2012, 07:01:05 PM » |
|
If the fan comes on when the wire is grounded to the body of the thermo switch, then the new thermo switch could be bad. It happens.
|
|
|
Logged
|
So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2012, 07:02:49 PM » |
|
If the fan comes on when the wire is grounded to the body of the thermo switch, then the new thermo switch could be bad. It happens.
how do i use my meter to check it? where at on the ohms does my meter need to be on
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2012, 07:06:22 PM » |
|
If the thermostat is bad then the radiator will never get hot enough to turn the fan on. The water needs to circulate freely through the radiator if the thermostat is restricting the flow then the radiator may be warm but it wont be up to engine temp. The only other thing is a blocked radiator. To test the radiator you will need to get a infrared thermometer and point it just above the fan switch. This will give you the actual temp that the switch sees. Its pretty hard to tell between 180 and 210 by hand or guessing. The fan switch is on the opposite side of the radiator from the engine water outlet, when you switch the fan on by grounding is the air really hot coming out of the fan or does it feel hot at first then cool down pretty fast? If so then the radiator is not getting hot enough which would also signal either condition. How does the top hose feel in relation to the bottom hose they should be pretty much the same temp a little bit of difference but if the top is hot and bottom cool or warm then that is also another test. A ohm meter hooked to either side of the switch will show continuity or not when the temp changes. I would also make sure you dont have a bad ground to the fan switch also.
|
|
« Last Edit: February 17, 2012, 07:11:05 PM by Robert »
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
YoungPUP
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2012, 07:07:39 PM » |
|
On/off type switch? Heated to temp, turns on, cools to temp, turns off?
|
|
|
Logged
|
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
|
|
|
indybobm
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2012, 07:11:28 PM » |
|
If the fan comes on when the wire is grounded to the body of the thermo switch, then the new thermo switch could be bad. It happens.
how do i use my meter to check it? where at on the ohms does my meter need to be on When you ground the wire that you took off of the thermo switch to make the fan run, you can ground it many places. You can ground it on the frame, the engine, or the actual body of the thermo switch it was taken off of. If the fan runs when the wire is grounded to the frame but not when it is grounded to the body of the thermo switch (the part that screws into the radiator) then the radiator is not grounded to the frame (not likely). If the fan runs when the wire is touched to the body of the thermo switch, then the new switch is bad. By chance, did you use teflon tape on the threads when you put the switch in?
|
|
|
Logged
|
So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2012, 07:13:40 PM » |
|
If the thermostat is bad then the radiator will never get hot enough to turn the fan on. The water needs to circulate freely through the radiator if the thermostat is restricting the flow then the radiator may be warm but it wont be up to engine temp. The only other thing is a blocked radiator. To test the radiator you will need to get a infrared thermometer and point it just above the fan switch. This will give you the actual temp that the switch sees. Its pretty hard to tell between 180 and 210 by hand or guessing. The fan switch is on the opposite side of the radiator from the engine water outlet, when you switch the fan on by grounding is the air really hot coming out of the fan or does it feel hot at first then cool down pretty fast? If so then the radiator is not getting hot enough which would also signal either condition. How does the top hose feel in relation to the bottom hose they should be pretty much the same temp a little bit of difference but if the top is hot and bottom cool or warm then that is also another test.
i have new autometer temp gauge and once it hit 180 the top hose gets hot (my hand themometer tells me) after a little bit the bottom hose gets hot as well
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2012, 07:17:55 PM » |
|
If the fan comes on when the wire is grounded to the body of the thermo switch, then the new thermo switch could be bad. It happens.
how do i use my meter to check it? where at on the ohms does my meter need to be on When you ground the wire that you took off of the thermo switch to make the fan run, you can ground it many places. You can ground it on the frame, the engine, or the actual body of the thermo switch it was taken off of. If the fan runs when the wire is grounded to the frame but not when it is grounded to the body of the thermo switch (the part that screws into the radiator) then the radiator is not grounded to the frame (not likely). If the fan runs when the wire is touched to the body of the thermo switch, then the new switch is bad. By chance, did you use teflon tape on the threads when you put the switch in? no teflon tape, once grounded to the themro body fan kicks on, this is new, did i get screwed?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: February 17, 2012, 07:20:17 PM » |
|
If the thermostat is bad then the radiator will never get hot enough to turn the fan on. The water needs to circulate freely through the radiator if the thermostat is restricting the flow then the radiator may be warm but it wont be up to engine temp. The only other thing is a blocked radiator. To test the radiator you will need to get a infrared thermometer and point it just above the fan switch. This will give you the actual temp that the switch sees. Its pretty hard to tell between 180 and 210 by hand or guessing. The fan switch is on the opposite side of the radiator from the engine water outlet, when you switch the fan on by grounding is the air really hot coming out of the fan or does it feel hot at first then cool down pretty fast? If so then the radiator is not getting hot enough which would also signal either condition. How does the top hose feel in relation to the bottom hose they should be pretty much the same temp a little bit of difference but if the top is hot and bottom cool or warm then that is also another test. A ohm meter hooked to either side of the switch will show continuity or not when the temp changes. I would also make sure you dont have a bad ground to the fan switch also.
yes the air is hot once i ground the fan
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2012, 07:31:54 PM » |
|
Do the fan test and dont rely on your hand test the temp of the lower hose and the the area above the switch. The fan switch will not come on till about 210 and your hand wont be able to tell the difference between 180 and 210. Does the air out of the rad stay hot for say 3 minutes? I have very rarly seen head gaskets go on these but when cool and you start the engine with the radiator cap on and let it run for a couple of minutes does the radiator build up pressure? With the fan on and you rev the engine to say 2000 rpm and hold it there, when hot, does the temp drop or go up?
|
|
« Last Edit: February 17, 2012, 07:38:03 PM by Robert »
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2012, 07:38:41 PM » |
|
Do the fan test and dont rely on your hand test the temp of the lower hose and the the area above the switch. The fan switch will not come on till about 210 and your hand wont be able to tell the difference between 180 and 210. Does the air out of the rad stay hot for say 3 minutes? I have very rarly seen head gaskets go on these but when cool and you start the engine with the radiator cap on and let it run for a couple of minutes does the radiator build up pressure?
running with out the fan 1st, then the hole rad is hot, i turn on the fan, then the air is hot for about a few min. then the left side ( where thermo switch is) of rad get cooler than right side
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2012, 07:48:41 PM » |
|
If you are noticing a difference like that without the use of a infrared thermometer then you do have a circulation problem if the temp is still going up. The temp from one side to the other should be pretty close not a major difference.
|
|
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: February 17, 2012, 07:53:26 PM » |
|
If you are noticing a difference like that without the use of a infrared thermometer then you do have a circulation problem if the temp is still going up. The temp from one side to the other should be pretty close not a major difference.
so can we assume that it is a rad problem? if so how can i clean it out?, i can see the water coming through the top hose and circulationg through would guess that the rad is restricting flow from..
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: February 17, 2012, 07:59:50 PM » |
|
Rad is probably clogged but I would like you to really remove the thermostat and run like that to kind of verify that its not causing any problems. Also please do rev the thing to 2k rpm and hold there with the thermostat in and fan on to see if the fan switch side does stay alot cooler than the inlet side. Most radiators that I have seen that have been clogged were never really able to be cleaned out. With the era of EPA most rad shops have gone out of buisness and the ones that remian will not rod the thing out which is what it would really need.
|
|
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
YoungPUP
|
 |
« Reply #21 on: February 17, 2012, 08:06:18 PM » |
|
When did this start? I think I remember an earlier post, but can't find it...Do you happen to have access to a thermal imaging camera? Commonly used by the Fire Fept. Would let you "see" what the temp situation looks like in the radiator.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #22 on: February 17, 2012, 08:17:57 PM » |
|
Rad is probably clogged but I would like you to really remove the thermostat and run like that to kind of verify that its not causing any problems. Also please do rev the thing to 2k rpm and hold there with the thermostat in and fan on to see if the fan switch side does stay alot cooler than the inlet side. Most radiators that I have seen that have been clogged were never really able to be cleaned out. With the era of EPA most rad shops have gone out of buisness and the ones that remian will not rod the thing out which is what it would really need.
with thermostat in and fan hooked back to the thermo switch @ 210 the top hose side of rad is hot ass hell, the left side is not as hot, @240 the right is hot hot , the left side bottom is not near as hot as the rest of the rad, this is the base line i just did, now should i go ahead and pull the thermostat out and run it, and i read that some hot rod guys have used viniger in the rad to unclogge it, your thought on this
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #23 on: February 17, 2012, 08:20:11 PM » |
|
When did this start? I think I remember an earlier post, but can't find it...Do you happen to have access to a thermal imaging camera? Commonly used by the Fire Fept. Would let you "see" what the temp situation looks like in the radiator.
stared about a month ago, i had replaced my water pump b/c the fork broke that hook to the oil pump, and the fan was not turning on so i replaced the fan thermo switch
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
F6BANGER
|
 |
« Reply #24 on: February 17, 2012, 09:02:07 PM » |
|
There are 10 valkyrie radiators on ebay right now.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
RP#62
|
 |
« Reply #25 on: February 18, 2012, 07:36:50 AM » |
|
The fan switch is an off/on switch. It should be open until it sees around 208°F then it closes. You can test it by putting an ohm meter on it and put it in a pot of boiling water. Just to be clear, there is also a thermo sensor or thermostatic switch (depending on year model) which is in the thermostat housing. It turns the overheat light on and is independent of the fan circuit. -RP
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #26 on: February 18, 2012, 07:50:15 AM » |
|
Is it possible that the thermostat could be installed backwards?
***
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #27 on: February 18, 2012, 08:11:47 AM » |
|
Ricky-D, that was going to be my 1st question and the 2nd one was if he had burped the radiator when he filled it back up.
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
olddog1946
|
 |
« Reply #28 on: February 18, 2012, 09:24:47 AM » |
|
The fan switch is an off/on switch. It should be open until it sees around 208°F then it closes. You can test it by putting an ohm meter on it and put it in a pot of boiling water. Just to be clear, there is also a thermo sensor or thermostatic switch (depending on year model) which is in the thermostat housing. It turns the overheat light on and is independent of the fan circuit. -RP
As noted, fan switch is off/on,,so, If you can turn the fan on by shorting to ground, the fan switch is not going to the ON position, which may be due to a bad switch or the radiator is not getting hot enough on that side to allow it to close...so you need to verify the temp at that point and go from there.
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 32473 US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988 01 Valk Std. 02 BMW k1200LTE 65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #29 on: February 18, 2012, 01:42:01 PM » |
|
Is it possible that the thermostat could be installed backwards?
***
thermostat was in right, and put back last night after testing it again, and had also burped the radiator, Robert and i after doing some trouble shooting thinks it might be a clogged radiator at this point, i am going to try and unclog it and see if it does the same thing or has some sign of improvement
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
RP#62
|
 |
« Reply #30 on: February 18, 2012, 04:44:59 PM » |
|
Be sure to let us know what ultimately fixes it. It helps us help the next guy. -RP
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #31 on: February 18, 2012, 04:49:44 PM » |
|
Be sure to let us know what ultimately fixes it. It helps us help the next guy. -RP
no problem, i am going to autozone tomorrow and buying a strong radiator flush to unclog it wish me luck
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
The Anvil
|
 |
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2012, 05:12:43 PM » |
|
But, but, it's a liquid cooled Valkyrie. It CAN'T overheat!
|
|
|
Logged
|
Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent. But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent. Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep. In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2012, 05:58:53 PM » |
|
But, but, it's a liquid cooled Valkyrie. It CAN'T overheat!
lol i wish then i would not have this head ache 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #34 on: February 18, 2012, 08:38:19 PM » |
|
You never posted the results of running the engine with the thermostat out, what happened? 'What temp did the engine get to with the fan on manually and the thermostat out?
|
|
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #35 on: February 18, 2012, 09:28:43 PM » |
|
You never posted the results of running the engine with the thermostat out, what happened? 'What temp did the engine get to with the fan on manually and the thermostat out?
Sorry, i did it today, it had the same symptoms as with the thermostat in
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
|
 |
« Reply #36 on: February 19, 2012, 07:21:11 AM » |
|
If all else fails you can wire a toggle switch to turn the fan on just wire from the wire thru the switch and to a ground and operate the fan manually. I have mine wired this way and still have the orginal switch in the loop too. This way I can kick the fan on ahead of time in traffic.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
RP#62
|
 |
« Reply #37 on: February 19, 2012, 07:29:55 AM » |
|
What year model is your bike? The early models ('97-'99) have a module between the thermosensor and the light. The thermosensor feeds it a signal, and the module determines when to turn the overheat light on. The modules have been known to go bad and cause the light to flicker or to go on when it shouldn't. -RP
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #38 on: February 19, 2012, 12:47:38 PM » |
|
What year model is your bike? The early models ('97-'99) have a module between the thermosensor and the light. The thermosensor feeds it a signal, and the module determines when to turn the overheat light on. The modules have been known to go bad and cause the light to flicker or to go on when it shouldn't. -RP
i have a 98 with autometer gauges installed, i ran a quick flush through it today and it is already running cooler the gauge stayed at 210 for 20 min today, i will flush this stuff out and use another brand that i can drive with for a few days, but my fan is still not kicking on rad is still cool in some spots
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
offroadchevy806
|
 |
« Reply #39 on: February 19, 2012, 07:53:17 PM » |
|
You never posted the results of running the engine with the thermostat out, what happened? 'What temp did the engine get to with the fan on manually and the thermostat out?
ok, so i ran flush throught let it idle for like 20 min, the temp got up to 240+ then i just turned the fan on manually, and it dropped to 210 for 20 min of idle time, did this twice. for idle before flush was at like 225+ with me having the fan on so i thought i had made good head way, the rad felt hot on one side and the return house going from the rad to the engine was hot as well. so i drained flushed it out and added coolant, let it idle then the temp climbed and stayed at like 235 with having the fan on with my toggle swith. the rad was hot on onside and the lower hose and left side rad cold. so i guess that it is clogged? i get paid on thursday and if we dont have it figured out by then i guess i will buy a radiator off of ebay
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|