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Author Topic: Clutch slipping in 4th and 5thoi  (Read 3237 times)
Lakeluvr
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« on: February 18, 2012, 01:15:14 PM »

I've read thru quite a few of the clutch topics and have some ideas. Fortunately it doesn't sound like a major clutch problem is a very common problem. Having read the other posts I have some ideas to try, but thought I'd my specific problem in an effort to correctly address the problem.

I have a '99 Valk with about 20K miles. I leave it in So. TX and ride it when I come down for the winter. This year I noticed that the clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th gear. Obviously gets plenty hot down here during the summer while it sits not being used. Does this sound like a clutch fluid issue or oil change issue or something else. Thanks in advance for everyone's help and support. John.
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2012, 02:47:14 PM »

What motor oil are you using? Too much moly in the oil can cause slipping. How does the clutch lever feel, does it seem to be functioning smoothly?
I don't think air or water in the clutch fluid would cause the clutch to slip, but it's sure easy enough to rule that out.
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Lakeluvr
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2012, 03:59:26 PM »

I'm using MB1 20/50. but it hasn't been changed for awhile since it doesn't get that many miles on it. The clutch lever feels fine, but does seem to be all the way out to engage. Thanks for the reply.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2012, 06:26:41 PM »

Mobil 1 is an OK oil ONLY if it's the type without any friction additives. Look in the circle on the bottle, it should say whether it has them or not. Basically, the bottom half should be blank.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2012, 07:30:00 AM »

Are you sure it is 20X50 weight? I've ran mobil  15X50 in my bikes for well over 130k with no clutch issues. The 15X50 )auto grade) has no moly or anything in the bottom half of the circle. Where in Texas are you? bunch of valk riders here. cooldude
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2012, 08:48:38 AM »

I'm using MB1 20/50. but it hasn't been changed for awhile since it doesn't get that many miles on it. The clutch lever feels fine, but does seem to be all the way out to engage. Thanks for the reply.

I would look into why the clutch lever has to be all the out to to release the clutch. Sounds like the clutch is not totally releasing which would make it slip. If it was mechanical linkage I would shorten the linkage and add some free play. Being a hydraulic system I think I would suspect either a very worn clutch or a faulty slave secondary unit.

Warning: this is early Sunday morning logic.
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So many roads, so little time
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Lakeluvr
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« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2012, 11:27:21 AM »

Actually, not positive about the oil weight, but was thinking that's what it was. Wasn't aware there is any mechanical linkage that can be adjusted since it is hydraulic. What seems so strange is that it was fine last year, but noticed the problem the first time out this year.

BTW, I'm in the lower valley in TX. Near Harlingen.
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2012, 03:03:06 PM »

I was using Mobil One 15w50 until I experienced a bit of clutch slippage under hard acceleration. I now mix the 15w50 with diesel oil (15w40 non synthetic) which has no moly. This has been working well for me, and is a little cheaper
Mobil One 15w50 does have a moly content. I didn't think it was enough to cause trouble until it did.
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2012, 03:18:28 PM »

When was the last time you changed your hydraulic fluid? Is the clutch handle bushing in good repair?
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2012, 07:05:32 AM »

Actually, not positive about the oil weight, but was thinking that's what it was. Wasn't aware there is any mechanical linkage that can be adjusted since it is hydraulic. What seems so strange is that it was fine last year, but noticed the problem the first time out this year.

BTW, I'm in the lower valley in TX. Near Harlingen.

Actually, I was NOT saying that there is mechanicl linkage only IF there was, how I would fix it. I still would be concerned about why the clutch does not start moving the bike until the clutch handle is almost all the way out.  It does sound like for whatever reason, the clutch is not fully disengaging.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 07:08:08 AM by indybobm » Logged

So many roads, so little time
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Lakeluvr
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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2012, 03:35:09 PM »

The hydraulic fluid hasn't been changed since I've had the bike. Haven't checked the bushing.

What is the recommended oil that should be used in the Valk??? I thought MB1 was it.
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2012, 04:51:25 PM »

There are many differing opinions on oil.
Honda reccommends 10w40 motorcycle specific oil. As I mentioned, I make my own blend.
If money is no problem there are plenty of fine options. If money is an issue, you won't go wrong with a diesel oil; no friction modifiers to mess up your wet clutch.
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2012, 04:23:31 AM »

Here we go again with which oil to use. But, you might want to try Rotella T 15w40. It comes in a white jug at Wally World, $13 for a gallon.
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2012, 08:37:10 AM »

If you are interested in getting to the bottom of this slipping problem and are thinking it is oil related (or not) the simple thing to do is to change oil to a dino with no special modifiers or additives.

It may need to be two oil changes to get all the old (present) oil off of the plates and other clutch parts.

If the clutch stops slipping after this course of action, you will know the problem was the oil.

All the quackery about this oil or that oil is just so much crap since you don't even know what the problem is.

Sounding unfamiliar about your bike and the little riding that you do with it makes me feel, finding out the cause of the slipping is paramount, so getting to basics is necessarily the first step.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2012, 12:24:13 PM »

Why does his clutch lever have to be all the way out before it grabs? Is this a manifestation of clutch slippage?
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2012, 02:57:49 PM »

Why does his clutch lever have to be all the way out before it grabs? Is this a manifestation of clutch slippage?

No it is not.

Actually that's pretty much how the clutch lever/clutch works on the Valkyrie.

The action from the full travel of the lever insures a good clean disengagement of the clutch which is very helpful when shifting the transmission.

If the clutch were to start to engage with the lever barely leaving the grip, well, that would be an indication of clutch related problems.

I'm talking about the Valkyrie here!

***

 
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2012, 09:14:01 AM »

OK Ricky, that makes sense to me!   cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Lakeluvr
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« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2012, 01:26:29 PM »

Thanks to all who have replied to my question so far.

UPDATE.
I got out and bought some RotellaT 15-40 oil and changed the oil. I noticed right away when I went for a ride that it was still slipping. I didn't push it at all, and made a stop at a neighbor's on the way home. I went to leave and put it into gear but it wouldn't even move. Ended up having to push it to my house. Not sure why, but the clutch lever doesn't seem to be pulling in all the way??? My plan is to pull the cover off the master cylinder and maybe change the hydraulic oil. Any ideas??
Thanks in advance.
John
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F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #18 on: March 02, 2012, 01:34:46 PM »

Sounds like your clutch is done. I just did my clutch. I was scared at first, never been into a motorcycle clutch. Its a piece of cake. I talked to a lot of people here in the VRCC who had been through the same thing. Plus, I figure why pay somebody to do it if I can do it.cooldude   
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Chiefy
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Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #19 on: March 02, 2012, 09:08:41 PM »

Sounds like your clutch is done. I just did my clutch. I was scared at first, never been into a motorcycle clutch. Its a piece of cake. I talked to a lot of people here in the VRCC who had been through the same thing. Plus, I figure why pay somebody to do it if I can do it.cooldude   

What did it cost to do it?  Did you have to buy any special tools?
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #20 on: March 03, 2012, 06:28:58 AM »

Sounds like your clutch is done. I just did my clutch. I was scared at first, never been into a motorcycle clutch. Its a piece of cake. I talked to a lot of people here in the VRCC who had been through the same thing. Plus, I figure why pay somebody to do it if I can do it.cooldude   

What did it cost to do it?  Did you have to buy any special tools?
Chiefy,
The only tool I purchased was a 1 1/4 socket from Lowes, about $8.
I had already bought a clutch pack pre-assembled (only 22k miles on it) off ebay for $50 including shipping. I pulled my rear tire to have more room. Timing was good since I had a new tire to mount sitting in the garage. Did the rear end while I was at it. I didnt pull off the basket, mine was in good shape. If you do need to, I think you need a 46mm socket. When putting it back together, dont forget to RESTAKE  the nut that holds the clutch assembly on.
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Lakeluvr
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« Reply #21 on: March 09, 2012, 01:59:56 PM »

Final Update:
I took cover off the master cylinder and found crud build up inside. I just cleaned it up and put in new fluid. Of course no help. I located a repair shop nearby that sounded knowledgeable about Valks. I took it to him, and he said it probably needed overhauled and flushed out. He could do it for about 60 bucks. Good news, two days later he called and said he had it fixed. Whoopee. Sure glad I didn't have to put a clutch in it.

Thanks to all who tried to help this dummy. John.
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F6Mark
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2000 Red/Blk Tourer

College Park, MD


« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2012, 03:20:43 PM »

<< I located a repair shop nearby that sounded knowledgeable about Valks. I took it to him, and he said it probably needed overhauled and flushed out. He could do it for about 60 bucks. Good news, two days later he called and said he had it fixed. Whoopee. Sure glad I didn't have to put a clutch in it. >>
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Well, I admire your attitude- no problem changing out the clutch, I needed to change rear tires and do the rear end anyway! hahaha
If you can let us know what the guy actually did, I'd love to know.  I hate to think how long it would take me to change out a clutch, but it seems it didn't require a new clutch. 
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #23 on: March 10, 2012, 06:00:07 AM »


Quote
I  would look into why the clutch lever has to be all the out to to release the clutch. Sounds like the clutch is not totally releasing which would make it slip. 

Glad it was something relatively simple.
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Lakeluvr
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« Reply #24 on: March 10, 2012, 09:22:31 AM »

Sorry I wasn't a bit more clear about what was done. I had bought some of the Dot4 brake fluid to use if needed. I took the cover off the master cylinder and noticed that there was a lot of thick gunk inside. I was sure that it was inside the lines down to the slave cylinder. That's when I just wiped out what I could and filled it back up with new fluid. Of course it didn't fix the problem since the gunk was still inside the little piston area and into the slave. The mechanic took the master cylinder all apart cleaning all the parts then flushed and bled the system. I had asked what the damage would be if the clutch had needed replacing. He said depending on parts between 3 to 4 hundred buck. Not good, but not as bad as I had been lead to believe.  Hope this helps, and thanks again. John.
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