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Author Topic: audiovox cruise control install  (Read 2795 times)
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« on: May 15, 2009, 05:27:31 AM »

I purchased a new AV cruise control about 6 mos ago and just now getting ready to install it. I have refered to the install procedure in Shop Talk and my question is this. Have there been any refinements, tips, improved methods, etc. suggested here that I should consider?

In addition, I run a Priority Plus that causes they rear turn signals to flash when the brakes are applied. Will it be necessary use the "brake disable feature" mentioned in the procedure?

TIA
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wd40
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Winnemucca, NV, Reno NV


« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2009, 07:05:33 AM »

Read the thread started by ROTTENRICK.  You don't need a vacuum canister (might need it if you use only one vac port).  Lots of prior threads, search the archives.  Should find lots of ideas, even photos, especially useful to decide where to mount the control unit.  Also discussions on how to deal with LED brake lights.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2009, 12:25:37 PM »

If any of the brake lights are LED, then yes, you'll need to use a relay. But, I don't think having just the "flasher" thing attached to the brake circuit should cause you to need a relay though. That's assuming all the lights are still incandescent.

John
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2009, 09:23:00 PM »

I've installed several of these units over the years. Are you putting it on a I/S or a tourer?  On the I/S you can mount the servo and canister under the fairing if you want. On the standard/tourer behind the battery in the place where the tools and manual go. I've done both  with the brake light wiring I like the relay method it easy and a clean way to do it. If you have any questions give my a shout or email. Cool
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Kingbee
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VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2009, 06:06:59 AM »

You can put it here



 or here

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mikeb
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vrcc-29271

dansville mi by lansing mi


« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2009, 08:13:35 AM »

the hardest part is the carb linkage  ya need a long pair of neetle nose pliers and no big vacum can i used a coupler with two end plugs in it ..i have done two this year and mine last year  dont use  duck tape use heat srink on the vacum valves the type with sealer in it{you need to shim the hose sizes up a size on the vac valves} if you cant find it email me and ill sent it to you some i use some nice covering on all my wiring its a cloth loom not the plastic that comes in the kit{ plastic  holds water &dirt looks cheap too}  i solder all wires too with heat srink on every conection  no need to pull the air box thats way over kill  i am going out to take a few pic of were i mounted the linkage if needed i can post them too  partytyme@gmail.com    ride on   mike
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FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2009, 12:46:35 PM »

It's going on a tourer. Thanks for the response!



I've installed several of these units over the years. Are you putting it on a I/S or a tourer?  On the I/S you can mount the servo and canister under the fairing if you want. On the standard/tourer behind the battery in the place where the tools and manual go. I've done both  with the brake light wiring I like the relay method it easy and a clean way to do it. If you have any questions give my a shout or email. Cool
« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 12:54:46 PM by FLAVALK » Logged

Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2009, 12:47:45 PM »

thanks John. No LED's here so I guess it should be OK

If any of the brake lights are LED, then yes, you'll need to use a relay. But, I don't think having just the "flasher" thing attached to the brake circuit should cause you to need a relay though. That's assuming all the lights are still incandescent.

John
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2009, 12:53:57 PM »

Thanks all for the replies. I am going to try the setup without the vacuum canister. I purchased two check valves and intend to T them together with a single line to the servo. I have searched but cannot find an alternate location for the servo besides behind the battery box. I do have a Tourer so behind the fairing aint gonna work. Are the any other other options?


Thanks,

Steve
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
timk519
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South-Central Ontario, Canada


« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2009, 05:09:02 PM »

I have searched but cannot find an alternate location for the servo besides behind the battery box.
The vacuum canister from my McCruise CC is in _front_ of the battery in the space under the metal support.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2009, 06:42:48 PM »

Give me a shout or bring it over to the "Schmidt House."  Wink  I've had one on mine for about four years or more and have fixed more than a few others.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2009, 03:34:50 AM »

I mounted the vac canister on my tourer down under the swingarm with a chrome coil mount for an old chevy the 1 1/2 PVC pipe fit perfect and it added more bling.
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Baloo
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Posts: 181


Rimouski, Canada


« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2009, 07:30:48 AM »

Quote
I purchased two check valves and intend to T them together with a single line to the servo

If you intend to install a check valve on 2 vacuum lines and then connect each line to only one carburator, this will work. But do not install one check valve on one main line that will eventually be connected to more than one carburator (tee'd) because the cruise control will not work properly. I installed mine with many carbs tee'd together to end up with 2 main lines on which I installed the check valves. I had to "help" the cruise with the handle while going upgrade and it would not hold its speed correctly. I later installed one check valve per carburator and the problem was solved. Hope this helps!
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Rocketman
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Seabrook, Texas


« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2009, 08:05:10 AM »

Thanks all for the replies. I am going to try the setup without the vacuum canister. I purchased two check valves and intend to T them together with a single line to the servo. I have searched but cannot find an alternate location for the servo besides behind the battery box. I do have a Tourer so behind the fairing aint gonna work. Are the any other other options?
I ran one without the vacuum can.  As long as it holds speed going up hill, it's fine.  If you use two or more carb vacuum ports, it should work great.  Definitely use a check valve on each one, or else the carbs will have some vacuum crosstalk, and that could mess with the carb balance.
Baloo's problem with the cruise not holding sounds like his check valve wasn't letting enough air through to hold because the check valve's orifice is much smaller than the vac. hose.  Using two in parallel doubles that size.
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Baloo
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Rimouski, Canada


« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2009, 06:48:21 AM »

Rocketman,

Actually, the problem I had was what you refer to as vacuum crosstalk. I had installed one line out of 5 carbs (the last for the petcock), but had tee'd them into 2 lines on which I installed the check valves. I later installed one check valve on each carb and the problem was solved.
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