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Bladedog
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« on: May 15, 2009, 09:18:39 AM » |
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Ok, next project is tomorrow- Brake pad inspection/replacement. I have the pads already, both front and rear. Bought them while HDL was having their sale. I'm almost certain the rear pads need replacing - Still have to take a look but the noise is very telling. Once I get a look at the front pads I'll decide then.
Now, good ol' Drill Sergeant Joe on the Shop Talk page has good stuff on front pad replacement, but is there a good source of info for the rear? Besides the pads is there any other tools or material I'd better grab?
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 It's easier to get forgiveness than permission.  |
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2009, 11:52:33 AM » |
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The brake pad replacement in the rear in pretty straight forward. My advice would be to make sure you remove the rubber gromet/boot carefully,and the underlying pin. #11 and #12 in the photo. It's easy to damage/tear the rubber. The pin doesnt need to be torqued heavily,just snug. Makes next removal easier.  |
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lacon
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« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2009, 06:46:34 PM » |
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The pin #15 is the only thing holding the pads in the caliper, but DWBD is correct in that those other 2 pins need to be checked for stickiness & most likely cleaned & lubed. (high temp silicone grease) They are what the caliper slides on, & if they don't slide well, your pads will drag. Get some aersol brake cleaner & after pulling pin 15 & pulling out the old pads, but before compressing the pistons, hose off the extended pistons. That will keep from pushing crud down into the cylinders when you squeeze them back in. Slip the old outside pad back in & push the caliper against the rotor as far as it will go, (master cylinder cap loosened or removed), then slip the other old pad in on top of the first one & continue squeezing against the rotor to bottom out the pistons. Pull the pads back out & check how well the caliper sides in & out on those other 2 pins. Now is the best time to clean & grease them anyway, so do it & recheck the sliding resistence feel. Slip in the new pads, replace pin 15, check your fluid, & that's it.
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2009, 09:03:52 PM » |
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Also on the rear caliper, check #10, pin bolt. That's another pin that allows the caliper to float. Mine was all gummed up and the rear brake hardly worked. Almost didn't get it unscrewed. Cleaned it all up and greased it. That is something I will check when changing rear tires or brake pads from now on.
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 States I Have Ridden In |
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lacon
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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2009, 02:56:54 AM » |
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You are correct Steve. The pin #'s are 10 & 12 in the diagram above. It looks like #11 & 13 are the rubber boots that protect these pins from the elements.
The pads will just slip in & out. Removing, cleaning, & lubing the caliper pins takes more effort, & I'll bet a lot of times this gets overlooked since it's kind of a 2nd step. Don't skip it.
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Bladedog
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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2009, 11:39:44 PM » |
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Decided to do the rear pads first. Got the old pads out, they were down to the metal, as I had feared. Yikes. Rotor surfaces seemed ok. As a result, the caliper pistons were already extended pretty far out. Like an inexperienced IDIOT, I just went and tried cramming them back in without properly cleaning them off first. Of course, they got jammed and jammed good. Ended up having to force them out with vise grips! (Hooking them back up to the brake system only got one out) Of course, local Honda shop didn't have new pistons or caliper seals in stock, and they literally wanted TWICE AS MUCH for the parts as HDL. So, back from the shop with new knowledge on how to do this, proceeded to the front brakes. Actually pads were still in decent shape, but I discovered they were EBC pads on my original rotors. What the heck, I'm already primed to do it and the new OEM pads are in hand, so I proceeded to remove the old pads, clean off the pistons and they pressed right back in - on the right side. Left side different story, one piston jammed in, would not move, even after I cleaned off the other one and successfully slid it back all the way in. So, new pistons and seal sets are on their way from HDL.
Here's my new question: The front system seems to be no longer working. I could not get any fluid to go through the system. I tried loosening one, then the other speed bleeder, then both, kept squeezing the lever, no action. Fluid level wasn't going down in the master cylinder. Do I now have a bunch of air in the lines I need to purge, and if so, how? Opened speed bleeders seemed to do nothing. In any case, I'm stuck until the HDL order arrives.
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lacon
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« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2009, 01:50:18 AM » |
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Years ago, I had a hard time getting my front master cylinder on my old Gold Wing to start taking fluid. There was a very small orifice in there that was just hard to prime once air had gotten in there. I suspect the same for a Valkyrie.
I would go ahead & get a Mity-Vac now that you have gotten into rebulding the calipers. Well worth the $30 - $40 or whatever they cost now.
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Bladedog
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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2009, 01:30:28 PM » |
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Whew, ok FINALLY have a free couple of days/nights and this weekend, and a friend is going to loan me his Mity-Vac. Now, my next question:
Is there any reason to put the goopy "silencer" stuff on the back of the brake pads? Prior to this project I did notice my front pads were making noise - possibly due to the fact they were EBC pads on the OEM rotor...???
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