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Author Topic: Need torque value for replacement of coolant drain plug.  (Read 1017 times)
Rocheux
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Posts: 13


« on: March 06, 2012, 07:53:34 PM »

Hi, do you have the torque value for the coolant drain plug? As you know it's the plug located at the bottom of the fitting on which the lower radiator hose sits. Rocheux@yahoo.com  Thanks in advance.
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ptgb
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Posts: 1144


Youngstown, OH


« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2012, 08:02:05 PM »

9 ft-lbs

Just did this twice (both Valks) yesterday.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15260


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2012, 07:14:25 AM »

Not everything on the bike needs to be torqued down, that drain plug is one of them. Just "snug" it down good, if you're concerned about leakage....use a new crush washer. I've lost one or two over the years and used a new banjo bolt crush washer used on brake lines.

Like the exhaust studs, if you try using a torque wrench on those you'll end up snapping one off. Put the torque wrench away except for the vital stuff such as internal engine parts and such things as axles, etc.  You'll spend a lot less time cussing, more time riding.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14807


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2012, 07:26:37 AM »

Not everything on the bike needs to be torqued down, that drain plug is one of them. Just "snug" it down good, if you're concerned about leakage....use a new crush washer. I've lost one or two over the years and used a new banjo bolt crush washer used on brake lines.

Like the exhaust studs, if you try using a torque wrench on those you'll end up snapping one off. Put the torque wrench away except for the vital stuff such as internal engine parts and such things as axles, etc.  You'll spend a lot less time cussing, more time riding.

Well said, John.  I always felt it was important to understand what the fasteners purpose is, what the consequence if it were to be over or under tightenen and some basic rules.

The larger the bolt the higher the torque value, small lighter (generally)

If its a "pin" like the bolt that holds the rear brake caliper plate from rotating, or the lower shock bolt on the right (final drive) side...those buggars dont need to be any tighter than a spark plug.

Getting a feel for how tight by size and purpose goes a long way especially for road side work where you dont have every tool in the arsenol

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Rocheux
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Posts: 13


« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2012, 09:10:47 PM »

Thanks, but I believe in using torque values where they may be found. I've never gone wrong that way. As well, where torque values are not available or where I don't think it's critical, I have in my 74 years on the planet, gotten that "good feel" for what's just right and I have not had any bad luck doing that either. I must say, in closing, that I had used a lookalike to the crush washer that I had left over from my former VTX-1800c bike but it didn't do the trick at 9 ft lbs.  So I used the washer I bought from Apache Honda here in Mesa (Arizona) and a new bolt, as the old one looked kinda compromised and also yellow (for natural gas/oils etc) teflon tape. Net net, it's dry as a bone. Thanks for your help and especially Chuck in Tucson who struck up a chat with me. Hope he rides up this way one day. Be safe all. ROCKY IN ARIZONA
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