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Roy E #253
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« on: March 08, 2012, 10:15:38 AM » |
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Hi all, it's been a while since I've been on the board and even longer since I've been able to ride in earnest. My question is about the Swing Arm and Stopper Bolt port. The dealer over-tighten the bolt but I finally got it out after grinding the exposed end of the bolt. I noticed the diameter of the hole is not one size all the way through. I tried to insert a new stopper bolt but it will not go in once it gets to the smaller diameter opening. I never remember the bolt having any difficulty removing or inserting. Should the hole where the stopper bolt inserts, be of two diameters. I hope my photo attaches. Thanks,  |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2012, 10:32:26 AM » |
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Yeah, your going to have to get a replacement from your Honda dealer.
That is a special bolt.
BOLT, PIN
45131-MA3-006
About $13 bucks.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2012, 10:36:18 AM » |
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You said you tried to put a "new stopper bolt" was it the right part or just a new bolt with matching threads? The Honda bolt is only threaded at the base (near the head) of the bolt the rest is just a pin, thats why its smaller. If you are using the right part then the swing arm has been damaged. look very carefully a dremel should be able to get it back to where it needs to be.
This particular bolt should be installed exactly like a spark plug....a little anti sieze and a tad past where it stops is all you need
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« Last Edit: March 08, 2012, 10:37:54 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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Roy E #253
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« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2012, 12:21:19 PM » |
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HI, Thanks for the reply.
The bolt i'm speaking of is the Brake Stopper Bolt that goes through the swing arm.
45131-Ma3-006, isn't that part of the caliper?
When I look-up on HDL, the stopper bolt number is 90158-MZ0-000.
this is the bolt I order which looks exactly like the bolt I had to grind out.
The old and new bolt look exactly the same, no tapering, (except 1/8 at the shaft end) with threads only near the head.
The issue is the hole in the swing arm, which of course is only partially threaded to match the stopper bolts thread, seems to have a smaller diameter at the end about 1/2". It is as if a smaller diameter collar was inserted into the swing arm. Should the swing arm hole be smaller at the end?
The photo with my original post did not link. If a photo would help, could someone instruct how to load the photo. If the swing arm is actually damaged I want to be able to go back to dealer which is 650 miles away and get this corrected. I appreciate the help, Thanks Roy.
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Bone
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« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2012, 12:57:59 PM » |
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ROY TRY THIS,
Here is a brief description of "Posting photos" if you have any questions you can send me an E-mail or PM (personal message) and I will try and help.
Many have failed with adding pictures so lets give it a try.
Top of the page click "Photostash"
On the new window click "Add a photo"
New window click "Browse" you are looking for the picture you want to post that is on your PC.
Tips; on your PC put your bike pictures in one folder to make them easy to find.
Click "Terms of Service" this is very important. The size of each picture is limited to 100 KB. Downsize the picture if it is larger than 100 kb.
I can get you a link for a windows picture re-sizer.
Click My Photos to get back to where you choose to add photos.
When you add a picture to a message above the message find the icon for "insert image" and click that you will get 2 brackets where your mouse curser is blinking. (The brackets won't show now without a link.) Now with the curser between the 2 brackets paste the shortcut of the photo you want to insert. Each image in photostash has a shortcut.
Practice and ask questions if needed
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2012, 01:00:53 PM » |
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HI, Thanks for the reply.
The bolt i'm speaking of is the Brake Stopper Bolt that goes through the swing arm.
45131-Ma3-006, isn't that part of the caliper?
When I look-up on HDL, the stopper bolt number is 90158-MZ0-000.
this is the bolt I order which looks exactly like the bolt I had to grind out.
The old and new bolt look exactly the same, no tapering, (except 1/8 at the shaft end) with threads only near the head.
The issue is the hole in the swing arm, which of course is only partially threaded to match the stopper bolts thread, seems to have a smaller diameter at the end about 1/2". It is as if a smaller diameter collar was inserted into the swing arm. Should the swing arm hole be smaller at the end?
The photo with my original post did not link. If a photo would help, could someone instruct how to load the photo. If the swing arm is actually damaged I want to be able to go back to dealer which is 650 miles away and get this corrected. I appreciate the help, Thanks Roy.
OK, sounds like you have the right part. I understand you wanting the buggars that messed it up to fix it, but this is really a no brainer (not worth the 650 miles). You could probably insert the bolt, then tap it with a mallet and it will go right in and then you thread the last part (probably what the dealer is going to do as well). All it does is stick its nose into a hole in the caliper plate to prevent it from rotating on the axle as the wheel turns |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2012, 01:17:08 PM » |
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Heck, you can be correct.
The web is so messed up today because of the sun, I can't go and check what you have, but it sure can be right bolt.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Roy E #253
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« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2012, 01:40:02 PM » |
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 Hopefully, I followed the photo loading instructions correctly. If the photo is good enough you might be able to see what seems to be a collar on the tire side of the swing arm. (this is not the caliper bracket) which the dealer keeps asking. To remove the old bolt, I ground flat spots on the exposed end. tighten a pipe wrench to it and kept at it until it turned. then I really had to grind it small enough and hammer it hard enough until it went through. If there shouldn't be a smaller diameter collar (or smaller opening there) should I try grinding that end down to match the rest of the port, or just pound it in. The only problem with pounding ( I see ) when it comes time to change the tire, I'll have to repeat the same grinding and pounding routine. Next question, i see used swing arms at Pinwall. Good idea or bad to purchase one? Thanks for all the help. Roy E #253 |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2012, 01:44:26 PM » |
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Thaat little step is normal.....its on mine too.......just put some lube on that thing and tap it in......  |
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« Last Edit: March 08, 2012, 01:50:57 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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Roy E #253
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« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2012, 01:50:59 PM » |
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Ok, great to know the step is supposed to be there. I just don't remember it be difficult to get in or out.
Will do the lube. thanks again for all the help. Roy,
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2012, 02:32:01 PM » |
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Shouldn't be difficult...yours looks "buggered up". file it smooth and it should work fine.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #11 on: March 09, 2012, 04:49:40 AM » |
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Roy....did you get that thar pin in the hole yet?
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Roy E #253
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« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2012, 10:24:02 AM » |
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Hey Chris,
I just got home from having the tire balanced. Yep, it went in. It looked like the tire side of the swingarm hole had had an attempt at "threadiing." (like someone tried to thread it from the back side. So I smooth it out and it slid in. So I'll lube it and get to work.
What is another mystery to me ... my 14" axle bolt which used to take my 8MM hex wrench, will only fit a 7mm, or probably a 7.5 mm if there is such a thing. Whenever I would change the tire myself, i used the 8mm wrench. The head / hex hole isn't damaged or clinked but the 8mm (Honda supplied) wrench will no longer fit. Luckily that doesn't stop the project. Wow, i do appreciate all the advise. It's great to have folks walk me through stuff. I do hope I see you all some place. I'll keep my eyes open for any wrenching days. I need to try the valve adjustment myself. I have always let the dealer do it. Looks black and white, but I like to see it done. If you're in my woods someday, give me a shout. Thanks,
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2012, 10:51:24 AM » |
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Hey Chris,
I just got home from having the tire balanced. Yep, it went in. It looked like the tire side of the swingarm hole had had an attempt at "threadiing." (like someone tried to thread it from the back side. So I smooth it out and it slid in. So I'll lube it and get to work.
What is another mystery to me ... my 14" axle bolt which used to take my 8MM hex wrench, will only fit a 7mm, or probably a 7.5 mm if there is such a thing. Whenever I would change the tire myself, i used the 8mm wrench. The head / hex hole isn't damaged or clinked but the 8mm (Honda supplied) wrench will no longer fit. Luckily that doesn't stop the project. Wow, i do appreciate all the advise. It's great to have folks walk me through stuff. I do hope I see you all some place. I'll keep my eyes open for any wrenching days. I need to try the valve adjustment myself. I have always let the dealer do it. Looks black and white, but I like to see it done. If you're in my woods someday, give me a shout. Thanks,
Thats great. Ya someone hit the axle with a hammer and that "peened" the opening around that hex head a tad smaller............very common. file a tad off the outer surface and then work the 8mm back in, that should repair the size back to 8mm. Ride safe |
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HayHauler
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« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2012, 01:09:15 PM » |
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Roy, with the threads you see in the caliper plate, it sounds to me like someone tried to replace that hard a$$ bolt with a regular threaded bolt at some point. Might also be why that shoulder on the swing arm was buggered a bit. I had to replace that bolt too, the very first time I replaced the rear tire. (CT).. We had a 1/2" impact on that 14mm bolt head with 125 psi and couldn't break it loose. So we moved to a breaker bar and cheater pipe to get it off, finally. Like someone said above, just a little anti-sieze on it and barely tighten it past touching and you will be fine. Hay  Jimmyt |
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2012, 01:19:30 PM » |
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Plenty of anti-sieze and not too much tight. That bolt seems to get tighter by itself with time. I try to always use a 6 point socket and a quick pop of the breakerbar to loosen the bolt before taking all the weight off the swingarm.
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Kevin Valk
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« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2018, 07:22:24 AM » |
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Hello,
I successfully removed this rear break caliper pin - no issues. But when I reinstalled after changing the brakes, the threads to tighten the bolt are stripped. The bolt is fine, but does not tighten as the threads in the hole are stripped. I had to get the bike put back together and got the bolt to hold, but am not confident that it will hold after riding. I noticed that the pin is put in place with a small hammer and tightened by the threads, (not sure what actually holds the pin from falling out).
I researched a fix using a "helicoil", by drilling out the hole, threading new threads in the hole, and installing helicoil in the hole to allow the same bolt to be reused. The thread looks like a M12 x 1.25mm.
Thoughts?
Key word, caliper, bolt, pin, brakes.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #17 on: February 05, 2018, 09:22:17 AM » |
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Why did you remove that. Unless you are rebuilding the caliper there should not be a reason to mess with it
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Kevin Valk
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« Reply #18 on: February 06, 2018, 04:31:21 AM » |
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Hello. Thanks for the feedback. I realize the rear brake caliper pin does not need to be removed to change the brake pads. I had to remove it as the pistons were seized, I mean really corroded. I had to pull the whole caliper off, remove the pistons to clean them, relubricate and reinstall the caliper.
That is where I noticed that the caliper bolt would not retighten. The bolt/pin went back in, but as I tightened it, would just spin and not grab. I pulled the pin and noticed that there were shavings from the threads in the hole. The bolt itself was fine. I just bought some thread lock tape and thread lock to see if the bolt will retighten and grab enough to hold. If it does not, then the helicoil is the only other option.
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da prez
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« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2018, 05:08:56 AM » |
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Kevin , do it right the first time. Do not cheap out on anything motorcycle. Brakes and tires are very much needed. Do a full rear end service. The ride can wait. If you can't fix the caliper , contact me and I will send you one. Break downs on the road are expensive. ( in many ways)
da prez
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