Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
June 18, 2025, 07:55:15 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Fuse block.  (Read 4503 times)
fudgie
Member
*****
Posts: 10613


Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


WWW
« on: May 16, 2009, 02:48:57 PM »

I have alot of stuff going to the 2 acc wires. I was thinking of getting a little panel or so to hook up all the wires to and then just have 2 leads going to the acc wires. Where can I find one and part # if you can. Stopped at Radio shack and dude said he has nothing. Only have volt meter, CC, speakers and cig lighter on them. Thx!
Logged



Now you're in the world of the wolves...
And we welcome all you sheep...

VRCC-#7196
VRCCDS-#0175
DTR
PGR
Motorider
Member
*****
Posts: 162


Pennsylvania


« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2009, 03:02:21 PM »

Blue sea # 5025 is what I used. It provides six fused circuits and will fit behind the right side cover if you move things around a little bit. I bought mine off E-bay but most boating catalogs also sell them Eg: Overton`s. It makes a very nice clean installation. cooldude
Logged
R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2009, 03:12:35 PM »

fudgie, what motorider said.

I bought my block from the boat supply store here in town.


1st one was for the Valkyrie, the last one was for the Trike.  Had to do some rewiring under the dash......

The Trike I use a 16 blade fuse panel and a place for 4 relays.  Worked slick for the Trike.........   Now as we play with a circuit or one gives us trouble, we just add another relay and run wires to it.

Last addition was a air compressor replacement for the Air Horns.    The old compressor took about 6 minutes to fill the tank from dead empty.   This compressor will cut off, using the same pressure switch as before in 1 minute and 5 seconds...

I think I did some overkill, but it sure sounds good back there when it pumps..........  At least I know I got a horn this way.....
« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 03:14:15 PM by R J » Logged

44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

ptgb
Member
*****
Posts: 1143


Youngstown, OH


« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2009, 03:48:02 PM »

The Blue Seas are nice, but they are a tad large... I went with a Centech AP-2 - it gives both keyed power on 5 circuits and constant power on 2 or 3. It is more compact.
 


It runs about 3" x 2.5", really compact and quality.

I mounted mine in the right side fairing of my I/S, because most of my power needs are up front, so all I had to do was two wires up the frame.

Now, I use a guy out of all places, Japan (he's not Japanese, not that that makes a difference), that sells electrical items, harnesses, etc. for motorcycles. www.easternbeaver.com

He just introduced his own fuse panel:


He did not have these when I bought my Centech, or I would have purchased his.

I also bought a relay/harness kit for easy hookup to the battery and aux circuit on the Valk. That harness works with either the Centech AP-2 or his fuse panel ... no muss, no fuss!



I have purchased all kinds of other connectors, etc. from him for other projects.

The reason I am telling you about him is that his stuff is of unbelievable quality for a really good price. As far as shipping from Japan, for just a small amount extra, I have always gotten my items in 3 days. Even on the other side of the world, he responds to questions within a few hours almost always.

... As with all other vendor referrals... YMMV... I don't work for him... blah, blah, blah 

« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 03:56:21 PM by ptgb » Logged



Lower Lakes 1000 - 07/07 & 09/10 * Bun Burner GOLD - 09/10
Lake Superior 1000 - 07/11 * Lake Michigan 1000 - 09/11 * Lake Huron 1000 - 09/11
Saddlesore 2000 - 09/11 * Ohio 1000 - 07/13
Kingbee
Member
*****
Posts: 486


VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2009, 05:53:24 PM »

Both the above suggestions are very good. I however, wanting instant gratification (and the fact that my previous installation of 11 years is still going strong) went to my local auto parts store, and for about $15 made my own. It's hung by wire ties so it can be swung up & out of the way for access behind it.

Logged

1999 Interstate
2000 Interstate
2004 Rune
2012 Goldwing w/airbag (and I don't mean Queenbee)
http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/weathersticker/bigwx_cond/language/www/US/IL/Glenview.gif
chrise2469
Member
*****
Posts: 295

Winnipeg Manitoba Canada


« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2009, 07:07:48 PM »

I use eastern beaver for bullet connectors and his new panel is very nice but it is a low load panel-(edit: early stats had it being only 40 amps total its now 60).  I use an 8 ganged fused panel for a higher load rating with a separate ground block. The photo below is a 6 gang but I had to upgrade for a trailer.



If from scratch I would choose the 6 or 8 ganged fuse panel with ground block included from wiringproducts.com
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html

Hope this helps Chris
« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 07:13:46 PM by chrise2469 » Logged
Gary
Member
*****
Posts: 1049


Northern New Mexico


« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2009, 02:03:04 PM »

I had gotten my set up through V&P Accesories. Has been in place now for over 5 years without fail. Isolated Power Supply I think they were listed as. I couldn't find them at any of local boat or auto parts shops in western, OK. at the time.

I dropped mine into the slot behind the battery compartment where the owners manual was stored in front of the toolkit.


Logged
Ken Tarver
Member
*****
Posts: 944


North Mississippi


« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2009, 07:58:51 PM »

mine (fuse block) was already on the bike when I got it.....I only re-worked the grounds to the buss bar.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: