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Author Topic: Dealer Service Cost for Rear wheel bearings and...$225-250?  (Read 2814 times)
SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« on: March 12, 2012, 02:00:19 PM »

rear diff service and yoke lube?

What's the standard going rate?

thx,
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 04:10:44 PM by SpidyJ » Logged

1999 Fast Black Interstate

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johnnywebb
Jess from VA
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« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2012, 02:19:14 PM »

The only thing standard is the dealers' hourly rates (and that's not really standard either).

Your best bet is to call your dealer or shop, tell them of the work you want, and ask for a (ballpark) quote.  The dealer may refer to a book which gives average hours per job.

Problem is finding anyone who actually has exp working on valks, even at a honda dealer.  In the past, thou it was perhaps a bit insulting, I took in ShopTalk articles on svs to be done, printed out with a parts list (except I always had all my parts ordered from HDL before the work, cause you can bet the dealer doesn't have everything or anything you need on hand), and talk to the tech who will actually work on the bike.  I always threw my big shop manual in the bike too, cause likely as not they don't have one.
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olddog1946
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Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2012, 02:26:33 PM »

You could go out and buy yourself a lift, and do it yourself and save a few hundred bucks..nothing really hard about doing the service. Just takes a little time.
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2012, 03:13:10 PM »

and ask for a local wrench party. Get some fellow VRCC members/riders over, and supply some refreshment and burgers on the grill.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2012, 03:15:01 PM by gordonv » Logged

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xman
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Lincoln Park NJ, Valk Home Lackawaxen PA


« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2012, 03:48:15 PM »

I can't say what the service and rear wheel bearing would cost. I would be curious to know as well as I am half way thru my first 2 tire replacement and rear end service.  With all the great information and help here, I would suggest you give it a try.  My bike has 15K so I didn't expect to find any issue. But you never know until you take it apart. I found all the grease fine, but the left rear wheel bearing was a bit rough. I believe the bearing may not have been found at the dealer.   This weekend the tires get mounted and balanced and I"ll put it all back togeather, knowing how well the job was done.  You do need a MC jack,  floor jack and a good set of metric sockets.

Tom 
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SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2012, 04:12:40 PM »

I have all the tools......need a lift.........I don't mind wrenchin at all...matter of fact I like it when there's no pressure.
But layin on a concrete floor, stoopin, bendin and crouchin all day..........just can't do it anymore.
I'm gonna go visit the local dealer tomorrow and ask to meet the head wrench.
I found out today that our purchasing guy at work is brother tho the owner of Redline motorsports here in Myrtle.
I will get the low down after meeting him. Word is the head wrench has 20 yrs w/Honda.
How could he not know Valks or at leat Wings.  Maybe he knows about the left bearing beef-up procedure.........prolly not.
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

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johnnywebb
xman
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Lincoln Park NJ, Valk Home Lackawaxen PA


« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2012, 05:03:22 PM »

Spidy, we here you. If your not up for it, there is no reason for you to lay under the bike bear hugging the rear tire. It sounds like you are doing your homework here.  I'm sure you will find a good Honda guy that will do the correct job. Just let him know what you expect to be done.  When you get prices post it here.  I'd like to know what I spent the last 2 weekends doing would have cost.  That said I could now do it in a few hours. One suggestion, get a MC lift. I have the Sears big red MC jack. It's cheep enough, easy for one person to hold the bike, raise and lower the bike with a foot pedel controls. Even if you don't work on the bike it' allows you to sit a spin the tires for cleaning at eye level. 

Tom
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2012, 05:50:52 PM »

@ 67 years and counting i just don't have $65.00 an hour to give to my dealer. I put my H/F lift in the third stop and with an old office chair i've eliminated a LOT of the bending and stooping. 2funny Granted-not all of it. And if i take a day or 3 longer gettin it done-i is still saving money. coolsmiley $65.00 an hour even at todays prices buys a lot of gasoline. cooldude Crank up the oldies station grab a cold brewski. 2funny RIDE SAFE.
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Art708
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Jacksonville, FL


« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2012, 05:54:02 PM »

Ride on down to Charleston and we'll do it.
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Art
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YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2012, 06:00:24 PM »

Yup, went to see the head wrench here locally at one of the Honda dealers near by. Asked him about working on a Valkyrie, he said "we're a Honda dealer, you'll need to go to Kawasaki to get your Vulcan repaired"  Asked the old parts guy(may have helped invent the motorcycle) and found out that their head wrench is only 23.... Shocked
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2012, 06:00:59 PM »

Went by my local dealer last week, he had increased his rates since I was there last.  It now reads $109 hr.!!!!!!!  Take one of the guys up on their offer to help or do it for you. Smiley
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2012, 06:09:37 PM »

I'm gonna go visit the local dealer tomorrow and ask to meet the head wrench.

If you're not doing it yourself or with a wrench party, this is the smart move.  cooldude

Either the head tech, or the guy with the most Valk experience.


My guy had his own shop for 8 years, now the head tech at the biggest local dealer, and he was not too proud to look over ShopTalk printouts.  And he's always glad I have all the parts in the bike (time is money for wrenches and no parts is wasted time).  I try to do most of my own work, but with little real experience and no help (but the telephone) I have to go to the shop for some stuff.  And I get back and foot pain and bloody knuckles even using a lift. 
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SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2012, 06:06:51 AM »

Ride on down to Charleston and we'll do it.


Thanks for the offer.....not sure I would make it!!
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

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johnnywebb
larswlvs
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my littlest riding partner

Akron,Ohio


« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2012, 08:04:50 AM »

I'm 70 going on 35,I do my own wrenching that way I know it's done right.The bending and laying is troublesome but nothing a hot bath instead of a shower can't fix.I can see where your coming from but for me to take it to a dealer I'd have to stay there and watch the work on it just to satisfy myself that everything was done and done right.
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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #14 on: March 13, 2012, 08:19:24 AM »

Reduce your labor costs and take your bags off before you take it to the dealer for service.   cooldude
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2012, 09:21:49 AM »

Reduce your labor costs and take your bags off before you take it to the dealer for service.   cooldude

Eliminate your labor cost....Never take it to the dealer for routine maintenance.  The best way to learn how to fix your Valkyrie is to have a dealership work on it, then you pay the man hundreds only to learn you now have even more stuff to fix.

Or you can eliminate the "let the dealer screw it up part" and just learn how to do it yourself.  Most of us that do know how are very happy and willing to show others that want to know.....just ask around
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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2012, 10:59:54 AM »

Reduce your labor costs and take your bags off before you take it to the dealer for service.   cooldude

Eliminate your labor cost....Never take it to the dealer for routine maintenance.  The best way to learn how to fix your Valkyrie is to have a dealership work on it, then you pay the man hundreds only to learn you now have even more stuff to fix.

Or you can eliminate the "let the dealer screw it up part" and just learn how to do it yourself.  Most of us that do know how are very happy and willing to show others that want to know.....just ask around

Dude.....you are a 1000% correct.  I need to come and look over your shoulder one of these days.   cooldude

btw.....just came back from the "new" Honda shop on Beal..... now called KM cycle and Marine.  They quoted me a 90 labor rate, and quoted me $458 + tax for a new set of E3's ($45 each wheel to mount 'em).....and they will NOT mount a car tire.  Ain't no more cheap tires in F'Dub anymore Jeff.   Cry
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I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14807


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #17 on: March 13, 2012, 11:55:32 AM »

Reduce your labor costs and take your bags off before you take it to the dealer for service.   cooldude

Eliminate your labor cost....Never take it to the dealer for routine maintenance.  The best way to learn how to fix your Valkyrie is to have a dealership work on it, then you pay the man hundreds only to learn you now have even more stuff to fix.

Or you can eliminate the "let the dealer screw it up part" and just learn how to do it yourself.  Most of us that do know how are very happy and willing to show others that want to know.....just ask around

Dude.....you are a 1000% correct.  I need to come and look over your shoulder one of these days.   cooldude

btw.....just came back from the "new" Honda shop on Beal..... now called KM cycle and Marine.  They quoted me a 90 labor rate, and quoted me $458 + tax for a new set of E3's ($45 each wheel to mount 'em).....and they will NOT mount a car tire.  Ain't no more cheap tires in F'Dub anymore Jeff.   Cry

It is sad....I got (maybe) the last set of $333.00 for two E3's mounted and balanced from the Old Honda Shop.  They said expect an increase next set.

BTW......Im pretty good at doing the front or rear wheel/final drive train........valves.......air cleaner........Alternator.........start switch.......Anytime Bro
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 11:59:41 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
art
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Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2012, 12:04:40 PM »

Yup, went to see the head wrench here locally at one of the Honda dealers near by. Asked him about working on a Valkyrie, he said "we're a Honda dealer, you'll need to go to Kawasaki to get your Vulcan repaired"  Asked the old parts guy(may have helped invent the motorcycle) and found out that their head wrench is only 23.... Shocked
I had the same thing happen to me in eugene,or .I went in to get a oil filter an the parts guy asked what is a valkyrie an who makes it.The best was when he asked if it was a v twin. I had to go to walmart .No dealer goes near my valk.DIY from now on
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2012, 12:17:31 PM »

The problem is that Honda Dealerships are hiring kids that no NOTHING about bikes to work the sales floor.  The only knowledable person at our shop is the parts manager OLD school dude and the main mechanic.  All rest are kids that are "winging" it.  I rolled in on my '97 red/white one day and them kids all flocked around and were amazed at the engine.....didnt know what it was....then one sees honda in the small print on the tank badge and says.  "i didnt know Honda made any six cylinders"  The rest of them thought he was smart because at least he knew it was  a six cylinder, the other kid goes "six? REALLY?"
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SpidyJ
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Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2012, 04:10:07 PM »

The Svc. Mgr. at Redline estimates $225-250 for new bearings, final drive and yoke service.
$69 labor rate.
Wants me to bring it by to look at it and to hear/feel the rear brakes first.
Will have to order parts.

 


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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« Reply #21 on: March 14, 2012, 10:32:20 AM »

The rear brake noise is getting quieter and quieter as I ride..........the new pads prolly needed to wear in?!

I feel like Mr. Dumass.

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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
dr.danh
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Posts: 139


« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2012, 11:58:02 AM »

Took my wheel and tire in to have it mounted awhile back. Serv. mgr. asked what it was off of. I said Valkyrie. He said we only work on Hondas. I just left.   crazy2  Like said mostly kids and atvs, and Goldwings at that shop.
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Art708
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Posts: 643

Jacksonville, FL


« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2012, 04:05:26 PM »

The Svc. Mgr. at Redline estimates $225-250 for new bearings, final drive and yoke service.
$69 labor rate.
Wants me to bring it by to look at it and to hear/feel the rear brakes first.
Will have to order parts.

    Dude.....rent or borrow a trailer and bring it here and we'll fix it. No need to spend that kind of money for something that's not that difficult.....and you'll learn to do it for yourself next time. 

 



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Art
 2014 Kawasaki Concours 14
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SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2012, 04:32:22 PM »


    Dude.....rent or borrow a trailer and bring it here and we'll fix it. No need to spend that kind of money for something that's not that difficult.....and you'll learn to do it for yourself next time. 

 



[/quote]
[/quote]
Thanks man.....the noise is gone.............new brakes had to wear in I guess.  I am Mr. Dumass!
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

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johnnywebb
Chattanooga Mark
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« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2012, 05:42:10 PM »

     I've done this many times over the last 30+ years with my Moto Guzzis. Tonight I started it for the first time on my Interstate. Go slow, take your time, and look at everything before putting a wrench to anything.
     So far I removed the trunk, saddlebags, saddlebag support rails, seat, the rear section of the rear fender and the muffler tips. I'm heading back out now to mount the BigBF quad horns. Then I'll move the CB next to the battery. Then I'll begin the rear wheel removal process to grease/inspect the wheel sline. Before I re-mount the rear wheel, I'll install a Standard/Tourer tail light for a little extra rearward lighting.
      Does the driveshaft pull right out after removing the rear differential? I really don't want to pull the swingarm.

All the best,

Mark
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2012, 06:09:24 PM »

Does the driveshaft pull right out after removing the rear differential? I really don't want to pull the swingarm.

Click each pic.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html
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Chattanooga Mark
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« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2012, 08:27:09 PM »

Wow, awesome instructions Jess, thank you. Not sure I'll do that or not though. The rear wheel spline and the rear drive spline are greased well and look like new. The bike only has 15,000 miles on it. When I bought it 2 years ago at 6500 miles, it had two new Dunlap E3 tires. I saw that their was grease residue on the rear axle as some scraped off as it was inserted. Glad to see that the local Green Bay, WI dealer did things right when they installed the new tire.

I bought all the o-rings and seals as per the instructions in Shop Talk. Glad I don't need them. Even the wheel bearings feel fine.

An old Moto Guzzi trick I learned years ago was to pull back the swingarm driveshaft boot a bit from either the back of the transmission or the swingarm. Then squirt in 0.5 to 1.0 ounce of Moly additive like Power Punch, then button things up. A turkey deep fryer flavor injector works great for this. The spinning of the U-Joint will keep the u-joint well coated with Moly and greatly extend the life of those parts. It also keeps the inside of the boot coated which seems to keep them from drying out and tearing. Course if if the boot were to tear, you'll soon know it as the Moly would be flung everywhere. I've been doing that trick for 30+ years with excellent results. In all those years with many Moto Guzzis, I never had to replace a single u-joint or boot.

Both top shock rubber bushings are worn so I ordered a pair from Gary in WA.

Thank You,

Mark
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 05:44:40 AM by Chicago Mark » Logged

...do justice, love kindness, walk humbly...

The Bible: Read, Apply, Repeat

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www.bikersforchrist.org
Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2012, 09:02:57 PM »

Just a word to the wise Mark, of the entire rear end maintenance job, getting the boot back over the swingarm is the most difficult, aggravating, cussing and tool-throwing job there is..... so if you're going to squirt something on the (no-zerk fitting) U-joint, do yourself a big favor and pull the tranny side off only.... easy off and easy on. 

I tore mine slightly trying to get it back on the swingarm, and believe I cured it with liquid electrical tape.

I will be in there shortly on one of my bikes, and I have been considering doing just that (squirting something in there). 

BTW, the Rattlebar man Chet did the how-to, I just gave you the link.

Welcome.
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SPOFF
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Derry, NH


« Reply #29 on: March 16, 2012, 09:25:25 AM »

You'll soon find that no Honda dealer will work on a Valkyrie. They usually refuse to work on something more than 10 years old. And no one knows what a Valkyrie is anymore. I get guys on $40,000 Harley clones pulling up next to me and asking me what I'm riding. They're amazed that it has 6 cylinders!
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