Carb Work, When to Do It?

[Chattanooga Mark]

When I bought my 1999 Interstate 1 1/2 years ago it had 6500 miles on it. The header pipes had some golden discoloration on the two front header pipes and some gold/blue on the rear header pipes. Both sides appear fairly even. My intake is stock and my oem exhaust has had the piggies cut but no holes drilled in the mufflers. I can get just barely over 40mpg on the very few occasions when I use my Brake-A-Way throttle lock at 60-65mph on the highways. I can also get in the 20's when I want to play. So, I think my mileage is about right compared to other Interstate owners.

I suspect the previous owner simply left the choke on too long which discolored the pipes. I have another un-moloested oem Interstate exhaust that has a lot more discoloration than my set has. This set came off another local Interstate owner who installed Cobras. The pipes were discolored when he bought the bike and some forum posts even commented that the previous owner must have left the choke on too long several times when they saw the for sale ad.

That was the set up, here's the question: when and how do you determine your carbs need to be rebuilt or the jets changed and the float levels adjusted?

I plan on ensuring the carbs are synced correctly when I get it off the lift next week. This week I'm working on lubing the rear spline and driveshaft, torque the steering head nut, install my Audiovox cruise control, desmog and install the BigBF quad horn set. I haven't rebuilt a carb since my 1978 Moto Guzzi G5 and those Del Orto's were as easy as it gets.

Any and all input is greatly appreciated,

Mark
     

[gordonv]

This may not be the correct answer, but I would say when your fuel economy changes (using more gas), and when the bike stutters while driving (or bogging down on wide open throttle WOD).

But I wouldn't do anything to the carbs!

I would do the easy thing first, and put half a can of my favorit carb cleaner in half a tank of gas, and drive the bike around at low RPM (high gear, and slow speeds).

If one cleaner doesn't change the condition, or improves it a little, try another brand.

[Bigwolf]

Open the carbs for rebuild only if the Valk is sluggish  and then only after having checked for vacuum leaks in hoses, intake runners, and cut valves and also having already checked for fuel delivery problems in petcock, fuel line, filter (if you have one), and tank vent line.  If she runs good and you are getting

over 40mpg on the very few occasions when I use my Brake-A-Way throttle lock at 60-65mph on the highways. I can also get in the 20's when I want to play.

then I seriously doubt there is anything wrong inside your carbs. 

Bigwolf

[Michvalk]

I don't mess with nothin' til it'e broke. Serously, run some cleaner through the gas every few tanks, use gas stablizer if you put it up for any time, and do the regular maintainence, and ride it. I have 36,000 miles on mine, have never had to sync carbs, or adjust valves, but these things are part of the regular maintanince, and will do those this summer. These bikes are made to ride

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Around 92,000 miles on mine and the carbs have never been apart. Have gotten bad fuel a time or two which was fixed by draining the carb bowls and running some seafoam through it.

Thought I had a carb problem once but it turned out to be bad vacuum caps on the intakes.

[Chattanooga Mark]

You guys are awesome, thank you!

Mark

[Ricky-D]

Rebuilding the Valkyrie carburetors is an exercise in futility and a waste of time and money.

Jets should never need changing, and stock is best. However there are those that will challenge this truth.

Floats are non-adjustable.

Synchronization is the answer to most all carburetor related problems,,, short of ethanol enriched gasoline caused problems, which are best addressed with a gasoline additive formulated for this problem.

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