b1rks
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« on: March 15, 2012, 05:48:41 PM » |
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Going to change out Plugs this weekend. I got a good deal on NGK Iridiums, from a friend in the Parts Buisness. I use a little Anti seaze on my Car Plugs. I was wondering if its not an issue to use on Valkyries.
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RP#62
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2012, 06:00:00 PM » |
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I've used anti-seize on my plugs since day 1 with no problems. Just be careful not to get any on the electrodes as most anti-seize is conductive. -RP
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wiggydotcom
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Posts: 3387
Do Your Best and Miss the Rest!
Yorkville, Illinois
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2012, 07:23:01 PM » |
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And it's best to change em with the engine cold.
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VRCC #10177 VRCCDS #239 
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Madmike
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2012, 07:24:16 PM » |
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keep in mind that the anti-seize will effect actual torque compared to a dry thread......
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wiggydotcom
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Posts: 3387
Do Your Best and Miss the Rest!
Yorkville, Illinois
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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2012, 06:17:06 AM » |
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keep in mind that the anti-seize will effect actual torque compared to a dry thread......
Madmike, so I'd cut back on the torque? By what percentage. Usually with plugs, I'd just turn em till they seat and then give em about 10 degrees more.
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VRCC #10177 VRCCDS #239 
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Warlock
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2012, 08:13:25 AM » |
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Going to change out Plugs this weekend. I got a good deal on NGK Iridiums, from a friend in the Parts Buisness. I use a little Anti seaze on my Car Plugs. I was wondering if its not an issue to use on Valkyries.
I wouldn't use any. Most plugs with a shiny base are made to put in without and anti sieze. Here's a link to look at and click on the pdf file in the guys first post. Just something to think about. David http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405805
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby
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aslondon
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Posts: 63
VRCC #4321
Monticello, Fl
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« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2012, 08:45:43 AM » |
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I have used a small bit of antiseize on the plugs for years without any ill effects. Don't count on the shiny surface to remain shiny and slick for very long. Remember, you are mating dis-similar metals which by nature can cause corrosion. I won't put plugs in without it. You can put them in without a torque wrench - If I remember there may be a diagram on the plug boxes showing 3/4 of a turn +/-from initial contact with crush washer. I would also ride a couple of times and then retighten them.
Al
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Farther
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2012, 08:51:55 AM » |
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The shiny silver coating on NGKs is probably trivalent chromium. I would think that anti-seize would still be a good thing as long as you don't over-torque.
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Thanks, ~Farther
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R J
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Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2012, 08:58:15 AM » |
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Damn, I've been using anti-sieze on MGM's plugs since day one, and dat be almost 15 years.
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2012, 10:17:13 AM » |
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With never-sieze the torque value should be reduced about 30-40%, but, why use a torque wrench ? Stick 'em in and just 'snug' [technical term] 'em.. I've found over the years that a torque wrench can get some folks [including me] in a whole lot of trouble.. There is a right way and a wrong way to use this neat little device, as there is with most things in life..
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2012, 11:04:17 AM » |
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Anti-seize has always been recommended for plugs when installing them in an aluminum head.
And it's because of dissimilar metals, steel/aluminum tightened together tend to bind together for several reasons, time not withstanding.
Same reason for using anti-seize on most all the bolts that thread into aluminum.
All you have to do is break off one or two studs or bolts and you'll be a convert.
For all the worry about vibration, and referring to HD's as a basis, is scare talk and has no reality when dealing with the Valkyrie's.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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john
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« Reply #11 on: March 16, 2012, 12:37:52 PM » |
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vrcc # 19002
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F6MoRider
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« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2012, 05:09:48 PM » |
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I change plugs every 5k miles. Never used anti-seize until this last time. Usually just snug them 3/4 of a turn after seat contact. Along with the anti-seize this time I used a click type torque wrench but torque was so low it was hard to tell when it clicked. So I just snugged them up 3/4 +/- of a turn.
You do have to be careful and watch carefully as you can strip it by applying to much force and then you're gonna be pissed when you have to tap it out.
I know folks who have gone 10k btwn changes and still no frozen plugs.
I used anti-seize this time because i noticed the plugs showing water related deposits on the exterior of the plug ...where the seals are letting water in. It must cook off but you never know if the deposit left behind may add to normal seizure to freeze a plug causing it to hold fast.
Your results may be different...
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VRCC #4086 2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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Blackduck
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« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2012, 05:23:14 PM » |
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Loctite have an article related to using Anti Seize and reducing torque. If you are worried about the steel and alloy in plugs and heads remember that some Anti Seize use Copper in their mix, I would be more worried about that than the steel in the sparkplugs. Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Madmike
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« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2012, 06:00:40 PM » |
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keep in mind that the anti-seize will effect actual torque compared to a dry thread......
Madmike, so I'd cut back on the torque? By what percentage. Usually with plugs, I'd just turn em till they seat and then give em about 10 degrees more. mostly my comment was meant for someone that uses a torque wrench on plugs and just to be cognizant of the fact that if you use a lubricant you have to reduce the torque depending on the lubricant you use- any torque without a lub will be different than the same torque with a lube, One trick I have used when removing hot plugs from an engine is to break them loose then spray them liberally with WD40 before Iwinding them out.
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