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Author Topic: Throttle cable rerouting.  (Read 2708 times)
Romeo
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J.A.B.O.A.

Romeo, Michigan


« on: May 17, 2009, 02:07:55 PM »

When I recently installed a set of handlebar risers I realized my trottle cable was sticking when the handlebars were in either lock position, due to the cable being stretched. To remedy this I rerouted the cable from in front of the triple tree to behind it. Now the cable is tighter all the time. i belive this is due to the tighter radius created in the cable just in front of where it disappears under the tank. Any ideas? Could this issue possibly be remedied simply by lubing the cable?
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2009, 02:20:32 PM »

I don't think so!  The new cables that Honda has been using for years now are lined and the inner cables are covered with friction reducing materials like teflon and there is also an inside liner for the same reason.  Lubrication may actually hurt the cable.

Best bet is to look more closely for a better reroute path. If the cable gets tight when turned to the lock, that's not too bad because who can ride with the steering to one lock or the other.

The best option of course is to get new and longer cables.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2009, 02:26:16 PM »

If the cable gets tight when turned to the lock, that's not too bad because who can ride with the steering to one lock or the other.

The best option of course is to get new and longer cables.

This is exactly when you dont want the throttle to mess up.  I routinely ride with the bars at the stops in parking lots and other low speed tight places.......you need the throttle to be unhampered throughout the entire travel of the bars in both directions.  This is in fact one of the final tests at the factory (safety test) before letting a bike off the production line
« Last Edit: May 17, 2009, 02:28:35 PM by Chrisj CMA CR3M » Logged
Master Blaster
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Deridder, Louisiana


« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2009, 04:07:54 PM »

You can lube them, wont hurt a thing.  I have flushed mine and others with WD40, washed black gunk buildup out of them and never had any other problems.  Been running my 2K I/S with the cables behind the triple tree since 2K, works fine.  Before that I rerouted my 98 Std behind and my son is still running it this way.  You just have to make sure they are not kinked, and have the largest smoothest radius possible in all bends.
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petevenne
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Concord NH


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« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2009, 04:50:13 PM »

The radius of the bend is important I tried Phat II risers on my 99 IS and tried moving cables forward and in back of triple tree and still had binding. Finally gave up and got a simple set of bar backs and still ended up cutting a notch in fairing to keep cables from binding.. Also cleaned lubed haven't had a problem since..  Minimum cable bend radius or the minimun angle of the dangle will set you free....

Thanks, Pete
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Duct Tape
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Sugar Land, TX


« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2009, 05:26:28 PM »

Recently added JP Cycles Deuce Risers.  I too rerouted the throttle cables to the back of the triple tree.  I had some initial problems with the throttle sticking  in almost any position except full left.  I screwed the pull cable (cable A) connectors all the way in at the throttle and at the carbs.  It was the only way I could keep the throttle from sticking.  It appears to work normally except at full right.  I can roll it off, but it won't spring back on it's own.  The cable forms a very short radius turn at the right side of the fork tube when you turn right -- any tighter radius and I think it would kink.  Hard6 warned me about this and recommended that I buy 3" longer cables.  I can't see any better way to route it to avoid the tight radius.  I will probably follow Hard6 advice and get the longer cables.
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Rog
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Duey
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Rochester, MN


« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2009, 02:42:20 PM »

I had the same problem when I changed my risers.
I removed the cables and flushed them with silicone spray. Got some junk out of them. Reinstalled them and seemed to work ok. Still had a little binding issue at all positions. After several adjustments at both ends I got them to work perfect. The tension cannot be to tight or to loose. Either one causes binding.
And careful routing is important. I tried several positions and finally got it just right and anchored it with a few tie straps in the right places. Haven't had a problem since.
Silicone spray works wonders on the bar inside the throttle also. Annual cleaning and re-lube  helps too.
YMMV
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2009, 03:47:57 PM »

The cables have to be free and operate correctly..Like the boys said they need to routed correctly and operate freely..  What risers are you using?? If they are not too radical then the original cables may be rerouted to work,,but,, then again you may have get longer ones.. I don't happen to like them rerouted behind the forks,,so,, I just install longer ones..
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2009, 03:51:29 PM »

I rerouted mine after adding risers. But after a year they were at such a angle the housing started to crack and kink. I called Motion Pro and ordered 8" longer ones. Yea they were a little long but better then too short. Still work good. They were 2 weeks out and we were leaving for Sturgis in 2 1/2 weeks. He called me when they were done and we worked out shipping. He wanted to get them to me a few days before we left. Got them on a Mon, put on Tue, left for Sturgis on Thurs. Good people! I still have the old ones and a new oem lenth Motion Pro throttle return cable if you need them.
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