pilot screw spring corroded, broken, & stuck in port.

[NJF6Cowboy]

Finally able to perform my winter maintenance. Few weeks back I was working on a carb sync, went to check pilot adjustments, could only turn carb # 6 and carb #5 they were both at 1.25 turns out. Bike always needs choke to start even in summer. All other pilots stuck fast carb #1 could not get "D" bit to bite. Redeye tool & motion pro both purchased.

This week I pulled carb assembly. Was able to remove all pilot screws, including carb # 1 after dremel cut did not work. I drilled small hole in head, and used a torx #15 driver as an extractor.

Here's the problem, carb # 1 as I pulled the screw out, top ring of spring came out with it. I soaked the stuck spring with the ATF/Acetone solvent overnite, and tonite was able to remove piece by piece the spring, washer, & o-ring with a dental pick.

As there is alot of rust & corrosion in the pilot port , I want to blow it out with carb cleaner &  compressed air.

Where do I get access to the needle end of the pilot screw? Will I need o-rings etc for that access. What are your thoughts on only this spring corroding and being stuck?   

[Ricky-D]

I've always been hesitant to blow air under pressure into a carburetor opening without seeing and knowing where the exit is.

Reason I say this is it is possible that you can end up clogging a passage unknowingly.

The pilot screw is an adjustment for the passage of fuel thru to the single outlet downstream of the butterfly in the bottom of the venturi.  It is one of four outlets with three being upstream from the butterfly, still located in the bottom of the venturi.  All four are specifically metered by the idle (slow speed) jet.

If your concern is debris might still be present, I would suggest using vacuum to help clear the area.

You could also look for plugs that may be available to be removed to allow access to galleries and passages that were machined (or cast) in the carburetor manufacturing process.

***

[Michvalk]

If it were me, I would have those carbs dipped in a sonic cleaner. The loose crap will come out, and then rebuild them. If you don't get them real clean, the stuff will come loose and plug up jets again. Don't want to have to do it twice!

[salty1]

Before the sonic cleaner, I would soak the carbs and associated parts in Pine-Sol overnight. I have never heard of such a severe pilot screw problem.  Sounds like your getting it under control. Keep up the good work. 

[NJF6Cowboy]

Thanks for the replies!

I have decided to order new jets, o-rings, & gaskets and clean & rebuild the carbs. Just breaks my heart as I am recovering from knee replacement and the weather has turned to nice Spring temps.

I will try the PineSol trick and I thought I read someone got a sonic cleaner at Harbor Freight. I will go to their site to look for it

Thanks again.

Stan

[NJF6Cowboy]

All I can say is WOW!!

I have just finished putting the big girl back together. Cleaned # 1 carb with PineSol in a Sonic cleaner. Cleaned all carb bowls with PineSol in the sonic cleaner ( try it it worked great ). Carb # 1 took several soaks for a day or two with the sonic cleaner at 180 degrees with the PineSol. Installed new pilots, main jets, slow jets, air valve hoses and air and fuel O-rings.

Took awhile to fire with fresh Hi-test, but when she did nice and smooth and more responsive then ever before. I will sync the carbs Monday nite and will be good to ride again. Yee Haw

[salty1]

Good work!

[Rocketman]

Very nice.  Never heard of using PineSol.  May I assume that it's safe to use this without removing all the rubber first (unlike traditional carb cleaner)?

Mark

[salty1]

Yah, I think PineSol is good stuff. Rubber parts should do OK for short soaks, a day or less. Not sure what  longer periods would do to the integrity of it.