Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 02, 2025, 12:02:51 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: extra stuff  (Read 1864 times)
N0tac0p
Member
*****
Posts: 413



« on: March 19, 2012, 06:31:08 AM »

i've got about 4 extra term rings on my hot side of the battery, ie horn relay, amp meter, battery charge.... with no in-line fusing

what is a better way to do t his, ie get one of those 3 legged adapters and add inline fuses?  get a spare fuze block....

and then where to put it or wire it?  Any insight greatly appreciated from my Valk friends.
Logged
Blackduck
Member
*****
Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2012, 06:53:18 AM »

I personally use a 30 Amp breaker straight off the battery then add what ever I am trying to protect to the downstream side. If you get a temporary short it will reset. A full short will keep tripping the breaker. Saves on fuses and lets you track the problem
Logged

2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
DenverDave
Member
*****
Posts: 332


Out past Mars ain't no speed limit -Mojo


« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2012, 07:10:08 AM »

PC-8 fuse box

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html


Dave
Logged

1999 interstate green/silver
Denver, Colorado

VRCC#32819
VRCCDS#0238

BonS
Member
*****
Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


WWW
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2012, 08:02:34 AM »

This is the $10 fix at Autozone. It can be found at many auto parts stores but prices vary like crazy.
It's usually installed under the right side panel and held securely with a zip tie. Just enough room for small labels.

Cooper Bussmann/6 ATC footprint fuse panel up to 30 Amps.
Six separate circuits.

Logged

Gary
Member
*****
Posts: 1049


Northern New Mexico


« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2012, 08:20:33 AM »

They can also be placed in the battery compartment section where the stock tool pouch hangs out.



Mine required some slight modification to the battery box.

Logged
BF
Member
*****
Posts: 9932


Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2012, 09:46:40 AM »

i've got about 4 extra term rings on my hot side of the battery, ie horn relay, amp meter, battery charge.... with no in-line fusing

what is a better way to do t his, ie get one of those 3 legged adapters and add inline fuses?  get a spare fuze block....

and then where to put it or wire it?  Any insight greatly appreciated from my Valk friends.


You really should consider an Auxiliary Fuse Panel for wiring all of your accessorie into.  Even if you don't need it now, if you want to add something at a later date, it'll save you a ton of wiring and figuring out.  

Alot of folks use the Centech fuse panel and love it, but you might wanna take a look at the PC-8.  IMHO, it's a much better product than the Centech.  It gives you six switched fused circuits as well as two unswitched (hot, always powered) fused circuits.  You might want to use the unswitched circuits for stuff like power ports or alarms and such.  Use the switched circuits for stuff like heated jackets, spots, fog/driving lights, radios/cd players, amps for stereos, etc.

I'm using the PC-8 along with the 50 amp relay/wiring harness.  30 amp power for the switched circuits and 20 amp power for the unswitched.  

http://www.easternbeaver.com/main/products/fuseboxes/pc-8/pc-8.html

The PC-8 is a simple intall.....here's just the PC-8......











And here it's wired with all of my accessories wired into it (I got alot of stuff  Wink).....







The PC-8 comes with it's own relay.  You simply run the two leads to the battery pos and neg and you'll also need to run a wire from the PC-8 leads to that switched wire under the side cover......this one (note the black wire running up into the rubber sleave).....



....then run the three leads to the PC-8 and you're done with it's install.  Then all you have to do is run your wires from your accessories to the PC-8.  Note that you'll still need to use a separate relay for high wattage items such as driving lights and such......but usually, things like that will come with their own relay provided.......just wire them into the PC-8 and/or any switches that you might want to use to turn any accessory on/off.  

btw.....the relays I used for my driving lights and my spots are tucked under the PC-8.  
Logged

I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: