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Author Topic: In a forkin hurry  (Read 2271 times)
giff
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« on: March 20, 2012, 12:54:51 PM »

Hello to all, I just put in a new battery and she started right up. While cleaning her up for the ride I'm planning this coming weekend, I noticed that the right fork seal is leaking pretty bad. I don't want to get too involved with this fix. I just want to replace the leaking seal ASAP. Can anyone advise me ? I don't want it to start squirting all over when I hit the next bump. Can I jack it up and
remove the wheel and just do the seal without removing the whole tube? Will the fluid all run out?
I never did seals before. I'm going to start some research in my shop book, but maybe you can help me simplify this job. Any advice is appreciated. It's a 2000 standard with 18000 miles.
Thanks,
giff
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2012, 01:16:21 PM »

One thing you can do right away is take a piece of film negative, and work it up past the seal and do a slow sawing action all the way around.  I told this to a couple tech types and they scoffed it as a "wive's tale."

I got a small seep over a year ago, and did this, and got even more fluid while doing it, but the seep almost quit, and successive rides got to where all I have is a little moisture on the slider, not even a drip.  I continue to ride it, no loss in front suspension. 

Proper repair means forks off the bike, and at that point you want to do a complete rebuild with all new sliders, seals and a few other things.  I have all the parts out in the shed when it's time (about $125 for both).
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2012, 04:37:58 PM »

Hey Jess, I know the film trick has been mentioned many times over the years but I can't find some details. I too have a leak in one fork, the left one in my case. I had the bike on a lift and tried the film trick. No luck getting the film in very far.
Is this due to the bike being lifted?
Of course, the chrome deflectors get in the way but I haven't read anything about removing the wheel and fender to get better access.
I'm going to let the bike down and see if I can get the film in there better. Any pointers appreciated.
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giff
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2012, 06:40:31 PM »

Hey John, I tried the film trick after reading Jess' responce. I unscrewed the four hex screws holding the fender and lifted it slightly to one side. This gave me better access to the seal. I wrapped the film around the tube about 3/4 of an inch short of the circumference. The front wheel was on the ground. I was able to easily hold the film around the tube moving it back and forth. It slipped under the seal and a little oil began to flow down while I did this. Then I worked the film up beyond the seal while moving it round and round and back and forth. I was only able to push the film up a bit less than the width of the film or I would have lost it. I don't however know if I should have tried to work the film long ways up and down. Would this make it go farther up past the seal? I would like to know what's better. I dried off the tube and went for a 10 mile spin. There was a little oil on the tube. I'm going to keep checking and see if it heals.
giff
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2012, 07:51:26 PM »

Thanks Giff. You raised another question I don't know the answer to: do you wrap the film around the fork or use it vertically? I guess I'll try both.
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garyheskett All 49 x 3 st.louis
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St. Louis, Missouri


« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2012, 07:58:07 PM »

My fork seal started leaking about 6-8 months ago. I tried the "film" method and so far it has worked for me.  I took a piece of film about 7-8 inches long and stuck it in the fork vertically and just started moving it up and down and slowing around the fork tube as I moved it up and down.  Only took five minutes and so far, all is good.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2012, 08:35:20 PM »

Guys, I am no expert in this little bit of voodoo.  I read about it here several times over the years, but don't ever remember anyone giving any particular instructions.  The theory is the film negative is thin enough to cause no harm, stiff enough to do the job, and may push any crud/debris that has gotten down under the seal (opening a leak) back up inside, letting the seal hold all the oil back again.

I used a piece of 35mm negative about 1 X 5" long, and shoved a narrow end up about 1 1/2".  I'm not sure if using the side of the negative (about an inch) would even let you get far enough in to clear the seal, without losing it (but if you got an extra oil flow, then maybe you did).  It took me awhile to get it far enough up to start an oil flow (tiny leak), and it is so tight it was difficult to saw it back and forth and work it around the fork. You can't just push it around, the negative will fold up.  The extra leak made it easier.  I bent one piece of neg, and had to get another.  

I just did it on the ground/kickstand, no disassembly.  Did this to both my forks; though the right was worse (the left barely wet, ever).  When discovered, I had lost enough to run down to, but not on my brakes on the right only.  After the voodoo, I still (minimally) leaked on the right, but less each ride (and I was getting off every hour to look, and avoiding bumpy roads) (and at first, I was wiping it down every time, but soon realized it was better to leave it alone to get an idea of day-long loss). About the 5th ride, it got to where I have moisture on each slider each ride, but never enough for a single drop to leave the slider down the fork, let alone get on the brakes (which you MUST pay attention to), and this is on all day rides and bad roads.  About 15 months.  I thought about doing it again to see if I could get a complete loss of fluid, but Mr Murphy said no.  

I am reliably informed that I could have had, or may still have a more traumatic failure at some point, and be sorry I kept riding it... though I don't think all the fork oil is ever going to leak down all at once (unless a whole chunk of seal falls out).  But you could end up trying to limp home with oil soaked front brake(s), depending on distance.  I am also informed that the best thing to have on hand if it did happen would be an XXL Kotex pad and duct tape, to keep the oil off the brakes.  LOL  

With two bikes, this one was put away since last Nov, but I am riding it again full time. I have all the parts and should fix it  (I pull the forks, and someone with the tools and who knows what he is doing will rebuild them for $100).  In 15 months I have not lost enough to affect handling one iota, but I suppose I am pushing my luck. Certainly, the first time I notice any increase beyond damp sliders, I will get on it.

EDIT:   So now everyone can add two XXL Kotex pads to their tool kits (the duct tape is already there).  2funny       (good for the forks or gunshot wounds)




  
« Last Edit: March 20, 2012, 08:54:40 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2012, 09:03:29 PM »

When doing this trick, remember to remove the dust seal first and slide it up out of the way. MotionPro.com sells a tool for this but they also have a video on how to use their tool. Same technique works with the film trick.
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F6Dave
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« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2012, 09:18:05 PM »

It still isn't a big deal to replace the seal.  I've done it with the fork on the bike following a method Chet (Rattlebars.com) posted several years ago.  Only takes about 2 hours.  I've got a PDF with the instructions on a different PC.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2012, 09:42:40 PM »

I'd be obliged if I could see it.
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2012, 12:00:09 AM »

I have a Word doc for changing the fork seals. No special tools as you don't have to remove the springs.

E-mail me at fallistonATgmail.com if you would like me to send you the file.
Fred.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2012, 12:02:36 AM by PhredValk » Logged

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VRCCDS0237
Bone
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« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2012, 02:35:52 AM »

Did the film trick on a leaking seal of my 98 Tourer and it worked. Soon after the other fork started leaking and the film trick failed. I figured it was an age thing. PhredValk sent me his Word doc. First time I had done upside down forks. I also put in new slider bushings and the front suspension was dry but felt like a new forks the handling must have been much worse than I realized.
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Cliff
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Manchester, NH


« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2012, 08:17:34 AM »

Sealmate.net  worked for me.  cooldude
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F6Dave
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2012, 11:47:46 AM »

Here's the old post on the east method...



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fudgie
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« Reply #14 on: March 21, 2012, 01:26:37 PM »

Film trick worked for me for 6 months. You could wrap a bandanna around the leak to. Right roadkill?  cooldude
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giff
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Posts: 67


« Reply #15 on: March 23, 2012, 05:58:59 AM »

Hi to all, I took a 100 mile ride yesterday. All the advice was great. I needed a quick fix for the shock leak and the film trick worked! After the ride the tube was as dry as can be. How long should it last? Can you continue the trick if it leaks in the future?
Thanks to all,
giff
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Bone
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« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2012, 07:07:35 AM »

Depends why it's leaking. The film trick clears the tube of debris stuck to the tube surface. Dead bug matter, tar etc. It causes enough of a bump a film of oil flows around the bump as the bump lifts the seals lip.
Hope I made sense of the problem and fix.

If the seal is failing it needs to be replaced. If the tube surface is damaged it needs to be fixed or replaced.
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BamaDrifter64
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Athens, Alabama


« Reply #17 on: March 25, 2012, 03:59:06 AM »

Ran across this tool on eBay which looks like a take-off on the film negative repair of leaky fork seals.  Only $7 including shipping; think I'll get one and try it before replacing the seals.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SealMate-Tool-Only-Tool-Fix-Leaking-Fork-Seals-COLOR-YELLOW-/140684826814?hash=item20c17818be&item=140684826814&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1222wt_922
« Last Edit: March 25, 2012, 04:00:47 AM by BamaDrifter64 » Logged

Bone
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« Reply #18 on: March 25, 2012, 05:28:43 AM »

That's neat bet I could cut one out of a side of a plastic milk bottle.
Maybe a plastic butter tub if thicker seems better Smiley
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Garland
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#618

Hendersonville NC


« Reply #19 on: March 25, 2012, 07:40:49 AM »

My right fork has been leaking for about a month on my 88K mile Tourer. I ordered the seals and bushings and tackled both fork seals yesterday afternoon. I did it without removing the upper fork tubes from the bike as outlined above. I also installed new front brake pads as I was concerned they had been ruined by the oil leak.
 
This was one of those jobs I was kind of worried about starting as I have never taken the forks apart myself, but really isn't bad at all!
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #20 on: March 25, 2012, 01:54:05 PM »

Ran across this tool on eBay which looks like a take-off on the film negative repair of leaky fork seals.  Only $7 including shipping; think I'll get one and try it before replacing the seals.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SealMate-Tool-Only-Tool-Fix-Leaking-Fork-Seals-COLOR-YELLOW-/140684826814?hash=item20c17818be&item=140684826814&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1222wt_922


If you search the web for Seal Mate you can buy two of them for 9.98 including shipping, in case a friend wants one.
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