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front brakes
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Topic: front brakes (Read 1018 times)
N0tac0p
Member
Posts: 413
front brakes
«
on:
March 21, 2012, 04:01:39 AM »
two years ago i rebuilt the master cylinder, as was well. last year i replaced the o rings in the calipers and put on new pads. i finally got he brakes bled ( i think), by vacuuming out thru the bleeders. However, they have never really gotten fully back.
what i mean is, i squeeze the handle and it slows the bike but does'nt really agressively stop it. and it takes a few seconds when i finally hear a "CLICK" (shoes moving forward). Don't think it is stuck pistons as they release OK, no dragging, i must have pulled a quart of fluid thru the lines etc, making sure the cylinder always stayed full.
any thoughts
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Ricky-D
Member
Posts: 5031
South Carolina midlands
Re: front brakes
«
Reply #1 on:
March 21, 2012, 05:15:31 AM »
You should have a hard lever when pulling it to the bars.
If it is not like that (hard lever) you still have a problem.
The problem could be air remaining in the system or it could be from other problems resulting from a less than satisfactory rebuild.
Since you are the only person that can get a first hand feel for the problem, how you describe what you experience will influence the replies you receive.
Aggressive stopping is usually a function of the type of brake pads and the quality of the rotors.
There should be no distinguishable noises when applying the brakes save for a possible rubbing noise of the pads against the rotor.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
98valk
Member
Posts: 13661
South Jersey
Re: front brakes
«
Reply #2 on:
March 21, 2012, 05:17:38 AM »
bleed them the old fashion way, pump the master cylinder and then open the bleed screw while keeping pressure on the brake lever. there is air/moisture in the calipers.
Had similar condition as u discribed, use the procedure above and now they work right.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
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Valker
Member
Posts: 3035
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
Re: front brakes
«
Reply #3 on:
March 21, 2012, 06:44:26 AM »
Another old timers' trick, somehow keep the brake lever squeezed (I use a bungee cord) overnight with the bars turned so the master cylinder is at its highest point. That lets trapped bubbles rise.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
The Anvil
Member
Posts: 5291
Derry, NH
Re: front brakes
«
Reply #4 on:
March 21, 2012, 07:58:34 AM »
First question is; did you use the correct fluid? I'm not trying to be insulting but I've seen it done even by otherwise pretty smart guys.
Did you use a Mity-Vac to bleed the system? Because it will pull fluid faster than an bubble can move to escape. I have done dozens of bleeds from wet fluid replacement to filling dry lines and calipers and never had any trapped air.
Frankly, the stock brakes are mushy even with new fluid and no air in the lines. I bled out mine immediately after taking possession on the bike from the PO and while it was an improvement (there was all kinds of emulsified crap in there) the brakes were still not that great. A set of Spiegler lines turned barely adequate stock brakes into what I would call very good brakes. The only further improvement would be better calipers or a master cylinder (or both) and I'm not cropping that kind of coin. So it could be the stock lines are just showing their age and need replacement.
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GotValk
Member
Posts: 274
Champlin, MN
Re: front brakes
«
Reply #5 on:
March 21, 2012, 01:46:11 PM »
Do What CA said, I just did mine as you did with the vacuum pump, But I had the same problem you describe, until I bleed them the old fashion way without the vacuum.
It will work, had same thing with the clutch until I manually bleed them.
Good Luck!
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