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Author Topic: bad petcock  (Read 2660 times)
Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« on: March 22, 2012, 02:11:20 PM »

On my way home from work i tesyed my petcock like i do once a week and this time it never ran out of fuel. Whats the best set up for a new one or would a rebild be best?
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2012, 02:21:50 PM »

Pingel.  cooldude Or you will be rebuilding it in a few years, again.
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2012, 02:27:13 PM »

Does pingle have the whole set in a kit?
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2012, 03:47:40 PM »

Think ill just rebuild it for now. I cant find the screen that goes in the tank though. Anyone know the complete parts list and numbers i need to rebuold this thing?
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2012, 04:12:43 PM »

Numbers 4, 5, & 6.  Number 5, the "cover set" is the rebuild kit, the other two items are the screen and the little O ring. When pressing the new diaphragm and shut off diaphragm into the small center piece, be VERY careful or you'll be buying another one. This will make sense when you see it laid out in front of you. Each dia. has a small "tit" that is pressed into opposite ends of an aluminum center piece and takes some patience to do that. I sprayed some alcohol on it to make it slip in easier, then pressed one the center of the dia. and turn slightly at the same time. Popped right in. Don't try to assemble one side, insert the metal slug center piece and try to assemble the other side. I've seen too many new kits torn. Assemble both ends first, then sorta roll the larger diaphragm just enough to pass it through. Again, this will all make sense when you see it laid out in front on a table. Just don't be in a hurry. Personally...I'd go with a new Pingel.

http://www.xtremeusa.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148881&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1999&fveh=3478
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JetDriver
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Columbus, OH


« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2012, 04:20:48 PM »

Just for clarity, part #4 includes part #6.  Part #4 is the screen and 0-ring together.
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2012, 04:59:30 PM »

With the pingle do i need the screen? Or just buy the pingle petcock? With or without vaccum line? Im new to this whole petcock deal
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2012, 05:02:19 PM »

One more thing i just thought of. If i go with the pingle without the vaccum do i need to cap off the vaccum line or take it off and cap it?
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2012, 05:39:48 PM »

You will need to cap the vacuum line.  Just put a cap on at the #6 intake brass plug on the rear.
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2012, 06:00:45 PM »

The oem screen may still be in there. Its hard to see and never comes out. Stick a screwdriver in the hole and see if it bottoms out. If so, the screen is there. Grab the edge with needle nose.
The pingel has a nice ss screen with it. The pingle is a whole unit. It seems hard to reach under the tank at 1st but it gets easier. Faster pick up once you hit resv to.
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Brian
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Monroe, NC


« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2012, 06:29:56 PM »

I installed an in-line filter when I did my pingel.Use the search feature on this site by typing pingel or petcock replacement. Everything you need to order and where is there. Search can be your friend.
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2012, 06:41:06 PM »

Just ordered a pingel 1311-ch for 98 bucks. Ill check out the filter
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2012, 06:49:27 PM »

What kind of cap do i need to cap the vaccum?
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JetDriver
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Columbus, OH


« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2012, 07:46:12 PM »

What kind of cap do i need to cap the vaccum?

A cap will come with the Pingel. Wink
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2012, 08:21:13 PM »

1 time does not make a bad petcock. The ball might not have been seatting correctly.

Cycle through it again, and try it out again.
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Chattanooga Mark
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« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2012, 11:17:00 PM »

Agreed, turn it off, then back to on. Are you sure the screw from the knob didn't come loose. I like the oem set up but then again I added a Dan Marc fuel shutoff valve tonight as well.

All the best,

Mark

   
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2012, 03:45:54 AM »

I tried everything. It was even taking 30 minutes on idle to kill itself, and that is with a quarter mile ride around the block withe the gas off. I was suspecting it was going bad. Im not surprised the bike did set for 3 years before i got it.
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wild6
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(Old enough to know better)

Vernon, NJ


« Reply #17 on: March 23, 2012, 07:22:33 AM »

Remember that any side tension on the knob will impede the ball from seating properly.
When turning the knob, it should feel loose and click in-to each position.  If you can't feel that, loosen slightly and give the petcock a little twist to relieve the side pressure. 

The rebuild kit will not correct a non-seating ball in the petcock. (But when re-assembling, you may inadvertently relieve the side pressure and think it did.)
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Red Diamond
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Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #18 on: March 23, 2012, 08:13:02 AM »

While you are at it, try testing that Pingle every week, turn it on and off every time you get off the bike, lets see how long it lasts.
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JetDriver
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Columbus, OH


« Reply #19 on: March 23, 2012, 09:53:12 AM »

It was even taking 30 minutes on idle to kill itself,

I think 30 minutes at idle is normal.  It will take 5 or 6 miles at 60 mph for it to quit.  You may not have a problem.  While riding, look at your odometer and then turn the valve off, (I know you've already done this... Undecided).  Let it run for 10 or 15 miles (You're out for a ride anyway.  Wink)  If you can make it that far, then you've got a problem; if it quits in 5, 6, 7 miles, that's normal.  Turning from "off" to "on" will have it running again in 3 seconds.
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donaldcc
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Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #20 on: March 23, 2012, 11:04:52 AM »

Think ill just rebuild it for now. I cant find the screen that goes in the tank though. Anyone know the complete parts list and numbers i need to rebuold this thing?


Look to see if the O-ring and screen stayed in the tank when you removed the petcock.  That has happened to me before and you just need to gently pull it from the tank.





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Don
fudgie
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« Reply #21 on: March 23, 2012, 02:05:52 PM »

While you are at it, try testing that Pingle every week, turn it on and off every time you get off the bike, lets see how long it lasts.

I do that every time I ride. Problem free for 8 yrs.
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registbass
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« Reply #22 on: March 23, 2012, 03:41:29 PM »

Hey Gavin , I just ordered a rebuild kit from bike bandit for the stock valve and i have an ASCO REDHAT fuel shutoff solenoid valve with filter (napa 3049) that I'm gonna put on when the  kit comes in ! I'll hafta hook up a bosch relay for it though .you are welcome to wrench with me  on this at the shop in columbus , just let me know ! bring your bike and we'll do em both ! you wont need any tools ! may hafta schedule a good time to do it though . weekend is best !
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Brian
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Monroe, NC


« Reply #23 on: March 23, 2012, 05:40:08 PM »

The in-line fuel filter I used was NAPA # 3032 it was made by Wix. It fits just fine and I used a stainless steel worm gear type clamp with a thumb tab at the pingel valve nipple. This clamp set up was bought at Advance Auto and elliminates the need for tools to remove the fuel line from the valve to remove the tank. It works great for me.
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registbass
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« Reply #24 on: March 23, 2012, 06:58:55 PM »

the napa 3049 is threaded on one side and threads right into the fuel solenoid eliminating the need for a nipple on one side of the solenoid .thats the only reason im using it .
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