Finally installed my newly rebuilt pumpkin.

[Ricky-D]

With a check on the old pumpkin and pinion I saw that the drive flange splines were pretty much gone and the same with the star splines.

When I first discovered the bad splines two years ago I simply cleaned and greased the assemblies and put another 20k miles on them.

There had been a bit more wear and with the though of being stranded I decided to put my new parts on the bike.

My initial reaction was very positive.  All the slop in the rear was gone. I still have the original star wheel bushings and the star is tight with very little rotational movement.

The new drive shaft is tight in the pinion cup (new) and the internal gears in the pumpkin make no noise at all. There is no slap in the gears.  Very quiet as it's always been.

The rear wheel bearing are still original and feel smooooth as a babies butt.

Now good for another hundred thousand or more miles.

***

[Black Dog]

Not sure I understand...  Did you buy an old punkin', say from Pinwall, and rebuild that, while keeping the original part on the bike?

If so, how much of the replacement punkin' was 'new' and how much was reuseable?  What was your $$ output, and do you have a list of parts that you used. 

I ask, because I've looked in to the price of a whole new assembly, before I found a very nice one at Pinwall, and they ain't cheap    If you saved big $$ rebuilding yourself, I might cobnsider doing the same, to have a spare for me or a brother in need.

Nice write up 

Black Dog

[Valkpilot]

With a check on the old pumpkin and pinion I saw that the drive flange splines were pretty much gone and the same with the star splines.

When I first discovered the bad splines two years ago I simply cleaned and greased the assemblies and put another 20k miles on them.

There had been a bit more wear and with the though of being stranded I decided to put my new parts on the bike.

My initial reaction was very positive.  All the slop in the rear was gone. I still have the original star wheel bushings and the star is tight with very little rotational movement.

The new drive shaft is tight in the pinion cup (new) and the internal gears in the pumpkin make no noise at all. There is no slap in the gears.  Very quiet as it's always been.

The rear wheel bearing are still original and feel smooooth as a babies butt.

Now good for another hundred thousand or more miles.

***

Thanks for the post, Ricky-D.  

You're one of a few that I've heard of (outside of dealer mechanics) who have gone in and installed a new ring gear and pinion gear.  I applaud it.

[Ricky-D]

To answer a few questions:

I replaced the ring gear and the pinion gear, which come in a set. I replaced the pinion cup an all the oil seals except the seal that is deep inside the pumpkin on the other side of the ring gear bearing.

I did not replace any bearings.

I followed the directions that are published in the Valkyrie shop manual and available on Dag's web site for free download.

The only thing I had to do differently was regarding the pin (41436-MB0-310) see the "final driven gear" parts diagram and list to see the part.   The shop manual says to "pull it out" which was next to impossible.  I drilled a small hole from the outside of the housing and used a small punch to pop it out. I fixed the hole with a self-tapping screw and sealed it in with red thread lock. The pin is pressed in.

I used no special tools. I used my drill press as an arbor press and made some holders to work with the pinion shaft and bearings.

I did do the patterning exercise to achieve a good tooth profile and to keep the final result a quiet running assembly.

On a grade of 1 to 10 I give this a difficulty grade of 6.

A better than average mechanical ability is necessary to do this job correctly.

For the price of the parts I can only estimate at around $450.00 since I also bought a new drive shaft and u-joint along with a new pinion cup, seals and shims.

I feel completely satisfied with the job and a lot of drive line slap is now no longer present and it also is as quiet as the original.

It's a brand new rear end !!!!!

***

[Black Dog]

Sweet 

Again, thanks for a great write up!

Black Dog

[SPOFF]

I found a Pinwall pumpkin several years ago with a claimed 5,000 miles on it. (It did look new when it arrived.) I paid about $300 including shipping. I still have the original and may overhaul it one day to put on the shelf. But I remember the parts alone were about $500. And this was years ago.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

To answer a few questions:

I replaced the ring gear and the pinion gear, which come in a set. I replaced the pinion cup an all the oil seals except the seal that is deep inside the pumpkin on the other side of the ring gear bearing.

I did not replace any bearings.

I followed the directions that are published in the Valkyrie shop manual and available on Dag's web site for free download.

The only thing I had to do differently was regarding the pin (41436-MB0-310) see the "final driven gear" parts diagram and list to see the part.   The shop manual says to "pull it out" which was next to impossible.  I drilled a small hole from the outside of the housing and used a small punch to pop it out. I fixed the hole with a self-tapping screw and sealed it in with red thread lock. The pin is pressed in.

I used no special tools. I used my drill press as an arbor press and made some holders to work with the pinion shaft and bearings.

I did do the patterning exercise to achieve a good tooth profile and to keep the final result a quiet running assembly.

On a grade of 1 to 10 I give this a difficulty grade of 6.

A better than average mechanical ability is necessary to do this job correctly.

For the price of the parts I can only estimate at around $450.00 since I also bought a new drive shaft and u-joint along with a new pinion cup, seals and shims.

I feel completely satisfied with the job and a lot of drive line slap is now no longer present and it also is as quiet as the original.

It's a brand new rear end !!!!!

***

Sweet. I've been running a pretty worn pumpkin with another worn one on the bench waiting to be rebuilt. I really wanted to hear from someone who had done it before I put down the money and ordered the parts.

[Brian]

Ricky-D,

Did the pinion cup come off easily? The manual showes a special tool to remove that part.

[Ricky-D]

Ricky-D,

Did the pinion cup come off easily? The manual showes a special tool to remove that part.

The pinion cup is held on with a large nut. No problem removing it with an air impact wrench.

I don't recommend installing the new cup if you're going to have to use the gear teeth to absorb the force from an impact tool.   In this case, it would be good advice to get the holder tool needed to keep the cup from turning.

***

[wild6]

To hold the cup, I put a large pipe wrench on it and held it on tightly with a c-clamp.  I was then able to break the nut loose with a socket wrench (got no impact tools)

I put on the new one the same way.  Just was careful not to squeeze the cup too hard.

[hubcapsc]

This one wouldn't come off easy. In fact, I don't have it off yet. I plan
to prop up the final drive so that the pinion cup will hold liquid, put
a bunch of liquid wrench in there, and try again. I hope I don't
procrastinate until I really need the darn thing  ...

I've seen others whip the pinion cup off with an air wrench, and put
it back on, too... I've only used an air wrench once in my life... the
time I tried to get this pinion cup off...



-Mike

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

This one wouldn't come off easy. In fact, I don't have it off yet. I plan
to prop up the final drive so that the pinion cup will hold liquid, put
a bunch of liquid wrench in there, and try again. I hope I don't
procrastinate until I really need the darn thing  ...

I've seen others whip the pinion cup off with an air wrench, and put
it back on, too... I've only used an air wrench once in my life... the
time I tried to get this pinion cup off...



-Mike

If the liquid wrench doesn't do the job you might try some Kroil, the liquid, I haven't tried the aerosol. Kroil works better than anything I've tried.

[BonS]

From an earlier Tech Section thread "Tricks of the Trade" there is mention of an interesting comparison of penetrating oils: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,34682.0.html

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've had good luck with putting the drive flange back in the final drive and using a long bar between the studs to keep the drive from turning and using an impact to bust it loose. Use a good 6 point socket to lessen the change of stripping. The Kroil is some very good stuff we use it all the time at work. We use the spray cans and it works great.

[hubcapsc]

Thanks for the ideas about getting the pinion cup off... I'll make
a report when I go for it again.

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I seriously doubt that any kind of liquid wrench is going to help remove the pinion nut.

Two reasons:  The nut is torqued down quite thoroughly and there is no rusty threads needing that treatment.

***

[hubcapsc]

I seriously doubt that any kind of liquid wrench is going to help remove the pinion nut.

Two reasons:  The nut is torqued down quite thoroughly and there is no rusty threads needing that treatment.

***

My buddy Dan zipped it off, and zipped it back on some number of years ago. Then more-than-one-tire
later, for whatever reason, the seal came out, and when I went to put on a new tire I had what you see
in the picture.

I tried to use my new air-wrench to zip it off like Dan did, but a few tries didn't do it. I had
a ride to go on and a good spare, so on it went.

I'm going to try the penetrating fluid idea. Then maybe I'll see if Dan can do it. Then I'm
coming over to your house 

-Mike

[jmann]

Ricky-D, would you by chance have assembled a parts list for the parts needed to rebuild the final drive assembly. I have mine apart now for the 10K lube and upon completion of a visual inspection I feel that I will at some point in time need to rebuild mine. I have had the bike since 28K and it now has 52K and the previous 2 times I had the rear tire off I was not as diligent as to the scrutiny of my inspections. After seeing various posts about the succeptability of the final drive to damage from improper assembly I am certainly going to be much more diligent as to the proper reassembly tightening order. I will upload pics later this weekend to get expert opinions as to the remaining integrity of my final drive as there is clearly some damage present. Anyways, I want to start assembling the parts needed to rebuild and have on hand a complete spare final drive assembly when it's finally needed. I have been enamored with the valkyrie since it's purchase and I have a strong feeling it will be with me for many years to come. It will be less painful to buy the parts slowly and assemble in the not to distant future than to take the hit all at once. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[Ricky-D]

The only parts that you absolutely need to buy is the two gears that are in the differential.

The pinion gear and the ring gear.

   GEAR SET, FINAL    41310-MZ0-000  $241.29  @ HDL

Find them in the "final driven gear" parts list page.

They come as a set.

All other parts are optional and may not be necessary to replace.

(ref) http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148613&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3474

The most important part is to follow the shop manual's direction.  (free download at Dag's web site)

[Valkpilot]

The only parts that you absolutely need to buy is the two gears that are in the differential.

The pinion gear and the ring gear.

   GEAR SET, FINAL    41310-MZ0-000  $241.29  @ HDL

Find them in the "final driven gear" parts list page.

They come as a set.

All other parts are optional and may not be necessary to replace.

(ref) http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148613&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3474

The most important part is to follow the shop manual's direction.  (free download at Dag's web site)

I think it is also necessary to buy a new star hub, referred to as #8, FLANGE SET, PN 42630-MT8-305 on the rear wheel fische: http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp  Cost is $152 and change from hdlparts.com.

If the drive splines are shot, the driven spines on the star hub are probably shot too.  And, if you use the old star hub, you run the risk of the new part wearing to the old part where they mate.

[Ricky-D]

That's true !!!

It wouldn't make much sense to change out the differential spline without also changing the flange spline.

***

[jmann]

Thanks gentlemen for the parts info. I will start assembling those items and keep my eye out for a used pumpkin or just plan ahead and just rebuild the one I have. I can't imagine it would take to long. I have a close friend with a machine shop at his house that for a few cases of bud light is always more than happy to assist.