fuel filter

[shooter64]

I noticed that the only filter in the fuel line is a screen. I know the Valk has gone 30k miles without a problem but I decided it needs a fuel filter. Got a clear inline filter and some 5/16 fuel line at O'Reilly's auto parts ($11.75 for filter, clamps and fuel line) Took off the tank bolts, lifted the back of the tank up onto a wood block. Got the filter and new line in no problem. Installed the filter with the shortest possible line so it would not show. Cranked and ran fine for 1/4 mile, then fuel starved and cut off. I could see that the line was pinched immediately after the filter. Pushed the 700 lb monster about 25 yards to a shopping center parking lot. Walked home, got the longer piece of hose left over and redid the job in the parking lot. By using the longer hose there was no pinch in the line. Rode 20 miles, all is well. That pretty much killed yesterday morning. Ugly clear filter with orange media shows in plain sight but doesn't look too bad. Just seems like those 6 carbs are sitting ducks for some sand or junk to cause a float to stick. Reading too many internet stories about hydrolock and fuel in the crankcase I guess.

[98valk]

Just seems like those 6 carbs are sitting ducks for some sand or junk to cause a float to stick.

WOW!  where are u getting your gasoline?  do u think the Honda engineers designed the proper in tank fuel filter so that the bike could be warranteed for 7 yrs?

[shooter64]

Since every car & truck ever made has a fuel filter I thought it might be a good idea. Probably not needed but an old retired guy has to have something to tinker with. Even my riding mower has a fuel shutoff and a fuel filter. For $11 it can't hurt anything.

[Daniel Meyer]

The fuel screen in the tank is a pretty good one. My carb bowls are clean and pretty after 150,000+ miles.

If you go with an external filter, you really need to get it in there in the same space/length as the old line was (so it won't kink, as you discovered), and I can tell you, the longer line creating a dip will cause you problems eventually as well.

[98valk]

Since every car & truck ever made has a fuel filter I thought it might be a good idea. Probably not needed but an old retired guy has to have something to tinker with. Even my riding mower has a fuel shutoff and a fuel filter. For $11 it can't hurt anything.

it can hurt.
if the fuel flow is slowed, all filters do this unless the total area of the filter material is large enough, this would have to be calculated, the fuel level in the bowls will be lower, which will cause a lean condition at the worst times. this could be worst for the front carbs which get their fuel from the center carbs in a slave configuration. I have made the front carb needles slightly richer with great results. and yes the fuel bowl level is critical to a proper functioning carb. top level carb tuners always get the bowl level correct first. Honda made it easy by making the float level a non-adjustable item.
now there is something to tinker with. 

[sugerbear]

this is the filter i'm using. take the tank completely off and position the fuel filter and line properly, then put the tank back on.

difference between cars and the valkyrie is, fuel pump vs gravity.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/9706/N1226.oap?ck=Search_N1226_-1_1763&pt=N1226&ppt=C0262

[Patrick]

I installed an in-line filter along with a Pingle fuel valve appr 12 yrs ago.. I believe its one of the best things to help prevent fuel-lock.. I do use a metal canister style, I'm leary about using a plastic one..

[R J]

I'm with my good buddy Daniel.

242K+ miles on MGM and only used the tank screen for a filter.

Tried an inlune one way back when I 1st got the big boy.

Lost quite a few top end MPH due to gas starvation.

YES Sir re-Bob, that damn filter will OVER restrict ya and could do more damage than a little carb leak.

So the big guy is back to all STOCK on the gas lines, and as long as I own it, it will stay that way.

Yes, I came from the old school also on filters, everything needs one.   That is a bunch of BS.   Learned the hard way.

As Forrest Gump would say:
“That's all I have to say about that.”

[Dave G]

I installed an inline filter and found that swithing from main to reserve took longer than I liked.  All the extra hose and filter have to refill with fuel.  Meanwhile you are starving for fuel on the highway in heavy traffic.  When I took my stock fuel valve out for maintenance and saw the factory filter I removed the extra inline filter.

[wild6]

The Valk at high speeds has high fuel demand/flow requirements.
Anything that you put in the (rather large in diameter by necessity) fuel line can impede the gravity-driven flow.

Add to that, a high temperature day and you can start having vapor boiling-up in the line, further impeding flow.

I had a quick-connect and an in-line filter and found that when trying to pass at high speeds (>65) on a hot day, I started having fuel starvation symptoms.  Switching to reserve alleviated the symptoms briefly, but they returned when the tank level dropped some more.

After removing the quick connect and filter, no more problems.

BTW: I had eliminated the petcock from contention earlier by installing a new one.

[shooter64]

Well, you no filter guys were right. This morning when I opened my shed door there was a fuel smell. Some cylinders were hydrolocked. I took out the plugs, turned it over to empty the cylinders. Removed the fuel filter, changed the oil and filter. The only thing I can figure is that the problem comes from that big filter and extra line are on the engine side of the petcock. So, turning off the petcock still leaves quite a bit of fuel that can run into the engine. Don't know why it siphoned into the engine unless I have sticking floats. Anyway, never had that problem until I did the fuel filter so I am hoping that the problem is solved. Will know in the morning, I guess.

[wild6]

If cylinder #6 (back left) was hydro-locked, your problem points to a bad petcock vacuum diaphragm.
That and a leaky #6 float valve.

[shooter64]

If cylinder #6 (back left) was hydro-locked, your problem points to a bad petcock vacuum diaphragm.
That and a leaky #6 float valve.

The thing is though is that the petcock was not involved. The fuel that got into the cylinders was not controlled by the petcock. This fuel was in the fuel filter which was already past the petcock when it was turned off.  I didn't think of that when I installed the fuel filter. Since removing the filter it seems to work fine today.

[wild6]

Even without a diaphragm defect, the float chamber valves shouldn't let fuel get past them.
I hardly ever turn off my petcock, even through a 2 week hiatus from riding and never got hydro-lock or even hard starting when I hit that starter button.

[98valk]

Well, you no filter guys were right. This morning when I opened my shed door there was a fuel smell. Some cylinders were hydrolocked. I took out the plugs, turned it over to empty the cylinders. Removed the fuel filter, changed the oil and filter. The only thing I can figure is that the problem comes from that big filter and extra line are on the engine side of the petcock. So, turning off the petcock still leaves quite a bit of fuel that can run into the engine. Don't know why it siphoned into the engine unless I have sticking floats. Anyway, never had that problem until I did the fuel filter so I am hoping that the problem is solved. Will know in the morning, I guess.

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 9/4/2008 at 12:30:31

In Response To: Another hydrolock question (G-Man (Gary in NY))

this is from Rider mag sept 1988 about the '88 goldwing Gl1500.
they had the hydro-lock problem and it turned out to be the bowl vent hose was sagging. "the low spotfills with gas and prevents air circulation, much like a sink trap. without a connection to atmosphere, the float bowls pressurize and raw fuel is forced up and out of the carbs through the needle jet. From there gravity takes the fuel down the intake runners. if that cylinder has an open intake valve, hydrolock." "The article states that honda issued a Product Update kit on a fix in feb of that yr which included a metal air-vent pipe and a vacuum fuel valve."
Looking at the service manual pics in the carb section it shows the vent hoses as straight sections just laying loosely on top of other hoses. My 98's vent hoses have a 90 degree end. the end is installed into holes in the rear carb support frame.
So this might be the reason and cause of the problem for some bikes.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi?noframes;read=1274246

honda service bulletin fix

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/sb1.pdf

[John Schmidt]

Some years back when I was experiencing a leaky OEM petcock(for the second time), I installed a manual Pingel. Knowing that I'd forget to turn it off, I also installed a Dan Marc elec. shutoff.  With the Pingel, the pickup tube isn't as long as the OEM, which in turn shortens the reserve available by quite a bit. So, I soldered(sweated) an extension onto the Pingel to match the length of the OEM. Which caused another problem....the Pingel filter no longer fit and neither did the OEM filter. Now comes the inline filter, a small metal unit placed after the petcock but in front of elec. shutoff. And, I positioned the hoses so everything has a very pronounced downhill run all the way to the carbs. With my currect setup, I have been able to run it out while in Reserve...done as an experiment with an emergency can of gas strapped in back of me for this one-time trial. The manner in which I have it set up, I don't get any high speed starvation at any level of fuel. But, if it's not set up with a good downhill flow then yes....starvation will occur. I've put thousands of miles on it since installed with nary a hiccup so I guess I have it engineered OK.

[Sigrún]

In Response To: Another hydrolock question (G-Man (Gary in NY))

this is from Rider mag sept 1988 about the '88 goldwing Gl1500.
they had the hydro-lock problem and it turned out to be the bowl vent hose was sagging. "the low spotfills with gas and prevents air circulation, much like a sink trap. without a connection to atmosphere, the float bowls pressurize and raw fuel is forced up and out of the carbs through the needle jet. From there gravity takes the fuel down the intake runners. if that cylinder has an open intake valve, hydrolock." "The article states that honda issued a Product Update kit on a fix in feb of that yr which included a metal air-vent pipe and a vacuum fuel valve."
Looking at the service manual pics in the carb section it shows the vent hoses as straight sections just laying loosely on top of other hoses. My 98's vent hoses have a 90 degree end. the end is installed into holes in the rear carb support frame.
So this might be the reason and cause of the problem for some bikes.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/vrcc_tech.cgi?noframes;read=1274246

honda service bulletin fix

http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/sb1.pdf

Now THIS is really interesting. Bowl vent hoses. I'll be sure to check the bike on that while tinkering on her tomorrow....