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Author Topic: Rear Drive Oil  (Read 6962 times)
Hedgehog
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« on: April 11, 2012, 01:26:21 AM »


Hi,

I've got a centre stand on my Valk .  .  is it OK to fill to the rear drive hole level while on the centre stand rather than the side stand....obviously this will mean a bit more oil in there - is this OK? ???


Thanks

HH
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Dave King
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« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2012, 03:27:35 AM »

I can't imagine there would be a problem caused by that small additional amount.
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Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2012, 04:45:48 AM »


Hi,

I've got a centre stand on my Valk .  .  is it OK to fill to the rear drive hole level while on the centre stand rather than the side stand....obviously this will mean a bit more oil in there - is this OK? ???


Thanks

HH


Filling the drive with the bike upright, e.g, on the centerstand, is the specified method.  Tilted on the sidestand will overfill.

See page 3-14 of the Honda repair manual.  Download here from Dag's site.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2012, 06:19:18 AM by Valkpilot » Logged

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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2012, 05:09:13 AM »

you can fill it upside down sideways or backwards if you drain it an only put in 150cc it will never be overfilled.  Why pour till you make a mess.  Just measure out 150cc.  I use a Nyquil cup thats 30cc and I pour in X5 cups, no spills no overflows.....done  cooldude
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Hedgehog
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« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2012, 07:09:48 AM »

yeah - I just bought a 'Mega Sucker' ( well every man has to have a hobby 2funny) ... which is a 150ml syringe with a tube attached. This way, I'll be able to suck out all the cruddy old oil and refill with new. I'm going for the 75/90 synthetic..
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Dave King
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& owner of BigBikeMad.com
Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2012, 08:21:30 AM »

yeah - I just bought a 'Mega Sucker' ( well every man has to have a hobby 2funny) ... which is a 150ml syringe with a tube attached. This way, I'll be able to suck out all the cruddy old oil and refill with new. I'm going for the 75/90 synthetic..
It would be better to NOT "suck" out the old oil.  1. you get yer sucker dirty, and 2. You wont get as much out as you will if you use the drain plug and let it drip for awhile.  Add 150 with a clean syringe and youre golden!  Great Idea, Where did you get it?
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Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2012, 09:14:55 AM »

It would be better to NOT "suck" out the old oil.  1. you get yer sucker dirty, and 2. You wont get as much out as you will if you use the drain plug and let it drip for awhile...

Plus, there is a magnet in the drain plug. It's good to clean that off.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Hedgehog
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« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2012, 09:17:18 AM »

OK. I know about the Magnet - I have a more powerful one to draw off all the iron...


Dave
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Dave King
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2012, 11:56:39 AM »

Won't hurt a thing!  angel I regular change mine using the vertical/center stand approach on all my Hondas.  cooldude The side stand method is a PITA.  Embarrassed
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fubar606
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eastern washington


« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2012, 12:20:09 PM »

if its not happy it will just blow it out the vent all over the back end Cool
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HayHauler
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« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2012, 12:35:32 PM »

if its not happy it will just blow it out the vent all over the back end Cool
And just how do you know this?  Hehe

Hay Cool
Jimmyt
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2012, 12:43:48 PM »

I have never experienced any blow off from the final drive.  Cool
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2012, 01:15:08 PM »

Believe it or not........since Ive been a member here there have been two instances (that I know of) of a fellow(s) filling the pumkin until it overflowed FROM THE VENT CAP.  Then wondered why oil was everywhere after the first ride
« Last Edit: April 11, 2012, 01:16:58 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
fubar606
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eastern washington


« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2012, 03:45:36 PM »

Believe it or not........since Ive been a member here there have been two instances (that I know of) of a fellow(s) filling the pumkin until it overflowed FROM THE VENT CAP.  Then wondered why oil was everywhere after the first ride

                thanks for the back up. i know this from over filling the vtx  ----messy
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Disco
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« Reply #14 on: April 11, 2012, 07:11:05 PM »

Quote
I can't imagine there would be a problem caused by that small additional amount.

OK, that was pre-coffee Dave.  I misinterpreted your post and thought you were talking about filling on the side stand, which would allow you to add more oil to the pumpkin than while vertical.  In that scenario, I still don't believe there would be any problem, but it brings up a question I haven't seen answered before - how much more oil can you add on the side stand?  Sounds like a quick and fun Wrench Party experiment.  We should know by the end of play 21 April.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #15 on: April 11, 2012, 07:34:22 PM »

Quote
I can't imagine there would be a problem caused by that small additional amount.

OK, that was pre-coffee Dave.  I misinterpreted your post and thought you were talking about filling on the side stand, which would allow you to add more oil to the pumpkin than while vertical.  In that scenario, I still don't believe there would be any problem, but it brings up a question I haven't seen answered before - how much more oil can you add on the side stand?  Sounds like a quick and fun Wrench Party experiment.  We should know by the end of play 21 April.

Filling the pumpkin while on the bike makes no sense to me.  I mean we all pretty much know that we should be removing the pumpkin and driveshaft at least every 10K miles.  If you use synthetic hypoid gear oil in the pumpkin, well then it will last the 10K easy so why not change the oil on your workbench while the pumpkin is off the bike.  Simply add 150cc while its sitting on its side, none leaks, no overflow and even if you spill it wont get on the wheel/tire, clean it off real good and put it back on ready for another 10K miles
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Disco
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« Reply #16 on: April 11, 2012, 08:45:21 PM »

Your way is better, Chris.  No argument from me on that.  Just saying that there would not be problem doing it the other way if his oil change interval does not coincide with his final drive service or tire change. 
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78 CB550K
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F6Dave
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« Reply #17 on: April 12, 2012, 07:43:45 AM »

A great tool for filling something with precise amounts of liquid is a large livestock/horse syringe available at a farm and ranch store.  While you're there go to the hardware department and get a foot or so of plastic tubing that will fit over the end where the needle would normally attach.  This lets you suck a precise amount out of a bottle and put it in hard to reach places without spilling.

This device only costs a buck or 2, and also works great for bleeding brakes.  Just put the tube over the bleeder valve and pull back on the plunger to create some suction.  I can bleed my brakes in a few minutes without any help.

If you have a nearby farm and ranch store it is worth a visit.  Down the road we have a Big R (called the cowboy Walmart by some) and they have boots, MC leathers, tools, hardware, and a huge gun department.
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BradValk48237
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« Reply #18 on: April 12, 2012, 07:47:31 AM »

I have always filled the pumpkin on the bike (including an 85 Wing for many years)... except one time..

Had the rear end off for maint. and to change the rear tire...... sat the pumpkin on the bench propped what i thought was vertical, filled it.....  after I had cleaned it out really well with alcohol to get all the stuff out.....

Guess i didn't have it vertical enough... must have overfilled and first ride I had blow by draining out and dripping.. it stopped very soon, but I don't think it takes much to overfill and get blow by..

I prop the Valk up with a block under the kickstand to very near vertical and let it drain for the time it takes for a complete oil change and underside cleaning.... It will drip for a long time till it stops. I then have short clear hose that I attach to the nipple on the oil bottle, and this is long enough to go over the exhaust and under the saddle bags (Have an I/S)... just squeeze the bottle to get it flowing and fill until it starts to poke over the lip of the fill hole...... let it stop dripping and put on the cap.... Never had a problem and easy-peaesy... Done..... Don't have to remove any thing and minimal mess.... I also have a pan i use that fits inside the wheel under the entire pumpkin, so there is no dripping on the wheel and tire . screwed together some 2x4 pieces to get it to snuggle right under the pumpkin......

I change the oil every year at the beginning of the season... oils cheap compared to possible problems.. and you get about 3 changes on a single bottle......

Just what I have done on pumpkins for the last 18 years or so- not saying its the best way, but just what I have always done..... and never had an issue.

B
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Hedgehog
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« Reply #19 on: April 12, 2012, 10:41:17 AM »

That, F6 Dave, is what is called a MEGA SUCKER!!

(Trade name over here for just such a thing as you describe)..


dave
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Dave King
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cookiedough
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southern WI


« Reply #20 on: April 12, 2012, 03:26:25 PM »

I just did my I/S probably for the first time around 21K miles since new.  The rear drive oil was black chocolate milk looking, ugly and the magnetic drain plug was very gunky sludgy.  It helps if you only have a center stand to warm the bike up of course some before unplugging and then sit on the bike and lean it over to the right as far as possible holding the bike up with your right leg mostly for 5 minutes or so.  I suspect I got out another 1 ounce of the old 5.1 oz. it requires by doing this vs. just letting it sit on the sidestand or centerstand.  For some, holding the bike up at about a 30 degree angle to the right with most of the weight of the bike is not feasible if not have strong legs like me able to squat near 400lbs..  It does help though to get most of the old cruddy oil out though.  Also, when filling up with synthetic Amsoil 75w/90, it took a little more than 6 ounces to fill up on the bikes sidestand but when tipped up level a little bit of that 6 ounces ran out, not over 1 ounce so I stopped and guessing 5.5 ounces still in there vs. 5.1 oz. and no overflow tube issues leaking oil out.  My guess if under 6 ounces and over 5 ounces no issues will be had and personally I think every 10K miles is a tad too early to drain this oil out, more like every 15K I think you will be fine.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #21 on: April 12, 2012, 03:35:55 PM »

I just did my I/S probably for the first time around 21K miles since new.  The rear drive oil was black chocolate milk looking, ugly and the magnetic drain plug was very gunky sludgy.  It helps if you only have a center stand to warm the bike up of course some before unplugging and then sit on the bike and lean it over to the right as far as possible holding the bike up with your right leg mostly for 5 minutes or so.  I suspect I got out another 1 ounce of the old 5.1 oz. it requires by doing this vs. just letting it sit on the sidestand or centerstand.  For some, holding the bike up at about a 30 degree angle to the right with most of the weight of the bike is not feasible if not have strong legs like me able to squat near 400lbs..  It does help though to get most of the old cruddy oil out though.  Also, when filling up with synthetic Amsoil 75w/90, it took a little more than 6 ounces to fill up on the bikes sidestand but when tipped up level a little bit of that 6 ounces ran out, not over 1 ounce so I stopped and guessing 5.5 ounces still in there vs. 5.1 oz. and no overflow tube issues leaking oil out.  My guess if under 6 ounces and over 5 ounces no issues will be had and personally I think every 10K miles is a tad too early to drain this oil out, more like every 15K I think you will be fine.

I give up.  Guys........It takes 150cc  no balancing acts or overflowing.......if you are filling it on the bike do it on the sidestand.......150cc will go in with no overflow, cap it and youre done.   If you fill it when its off the bike no guessing at level upright or sideways..........let it lay on its side and put in the 150cc.  Why make it so hard??
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Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #22 on: April 13, 2012, 08:16:58 AM »

Why make it so hard??

It's an oil thread. Rear end oil, but still an oil thread.

It's not *allowed* to be easy!  Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Hedgehog
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« Reply #23 on: April 13, 2012, 09:06:23 AM »

Right. Well I stuck her on the centre stand, removed the plugs and drained out the oil.

Despite what the manual said, I found I did have to remove the exhaust tip to get access for the socket..

Then I used my Mega Sucker syringe and tube to pump in exactly 150ml.

Tighten up and then run bike on stand and in gear for 2 minutes and then check. Perfect, just starting to seep out, but only just.

Tightened to specified torque and all done.

I used 80W/90 hypoid.

Glad I did it. Pic shows state of oil - black and silvery looking. Yuk.




« Last Edit: April 13, 2012, 09:12:16 AM by Hedgehog » Logged

Dave King
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& owner of BigBikeMad.com
Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #24 on: April 13, 2012, 05:35:15 PM »

Why make it so hard??

It's an oil thread. Rear end oil, but still an oil thread.

It's not *allowed* to be easy!  Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes

Yeah.....I guess....LOL....I guess theres always going to be one (or two)
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Brian
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Monroe, NC


« Reply #25 on: April 13, 2012, 06:51:56 PM »

I am with Bradvalk on this. The rear oil gets changed at each engine oil change on my scooter. That small amount of fluid takes a beating back there and by changing it often keeps the tiny metal particles flushed out.
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flsix
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South Carolina


« Reply #26 on: April 14, 2012, 12:06:23 PM »

I've just picked up a 99 I/S with just under 14k on it. This is the first Valk I've had and it's quite a change from the VTX 1300 that I was on. Changed the oil to Shell synthetic and the rear end to Lucas. Glad I checked it as the rear end only had about three oz. in it. Looked pretty dirty, maybe the original oil Shocked
Didn't see any signs of a leak around the diff. Anyway feel better about it now.
Learning a lot about this bike since joining the VRCC. You all have much more time on the Valks than I do. Had a lot of questions when I got the bike and every one of them has been answered with a search on this site.
Used the VTX Cafe in the same way for it's problems.
Thanks for a great site cooldude
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2012, 07:17:00 AM »

Welcome flsix! Enjoy your "new" ride.  cooldude
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gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #28 on: April 15, 2012, 10:47:15 AM »

Changed the oil to Shell synthetic and the rear end to Lucas. Glad I checked it as the rear end only had about three oz. in it. Looked pretty dirty, maybe the original oil Shocked

Down a little, but not too much. Just checked the manual, shows 150 ml/5.1 oz is the proper amount.
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