Dropped my batwing fairing....

[f6power]

I dropped my MS batwing fairing in the garage and a large chunk of the handguard broke off. Does anyone know what it's made off? I don't know what to use to glue it back,if it's even possible...

[quexpress]

It's most probably made of ABS. If you search the net, you'll find that can work.
Some people have had success by using a piece of fiberglass cloth along with "plumbers ABS glue".
There are also "plastic welders" available (Harbour Freight, etc.).
Good luck!

[tank_post142]

" inner structure constructed of black textured ABS and outer structure of opaque black Lucite with a finish that can be painted but is designed to look great as is"

[Ricky-D]

You can find ABS plastic repair cement at Lowes in the plumbing department.

It's black and works fine for repairs.

***

[f6power]

Thanks guys,going to buy ABS cement, I let you know if it worked .

[tank_post142]

lucite is an acrylic and you must use a glue formulated for acrylic rather than abs.

ABS is a styrene based plastic and is a whole other beast.

[f6power]

I'll try to find some acrylic glue and try both .
Telling the truth I didn't expect the fairing to be so fragile,it broke like glass almost...

[tank_post142]

i know, i barely tapped mine into the grass and rocks on the side of the of the highway at 55 Mph and the whole rt side blew off !!

[Gear Jammer]

i know, i barely tapped mine into the grass and rocks on the side of the of the highway at 55 Mph and the whole rt side blew off !!

no $,,t   

[dreamaker]

I thought that the MS Batwing fairing was polycarbonate ( some people call it Lexan). Now when you put Plexiglas together you use solvent to attach it which is welding it together.  Maybe if it is polycarbonate it is a similar process. I have used superglue on polycarbonate with success. But I would not recommend it on your fairing. Find out what kind of acrylic it is. I did some searching and Weld-On makes adhesives for acrylics. Use the right stuff for it.

[tank_post142]

it's lucite.

[dreamaker]

Correct me if I am wrong, but Lucite is a brand name of acrylic not a type of acrylic.

[Donald]

Just a tip, if you have an Auto Body Supply in your area, see if they have "Q-Bond" it is similar to crazy glue but comes with filling powders, I have repaired car bumpers,models, and just finished replacing a broken side cover tab.
I put this %$#&^% on everything.    It works.

[tank_post142]

The first acrylic acid was created in 1843. Methacrylic acid, derived from acrylic acid, was formulated in 1865. The reaction between methacrylic acid and methanol results in the ester methyl methacrylate. The German chemists Fittig and Paul discovered in 1877 the polymerization process that turns methyl methacrylate into polymethyl methacrylate. In 1933 the German chemist Otto Röhm patented and registered the brand name PLEXIGLAS. In 1936 the first commercially viable production of acrylic safety glass began. During World War II acrylic glass was used for submarine periscopes, windshields, canopies, and gun turrets for airplanes.[5]

Handling, cutting, and joining

PMMA can be joined using cyanoacrylate cement (commonly known as superglue), with heat (welding), or by using solvents such as di- or trichloromethane to dissolve the plastic at the joint, which then fuses and sets, forming an almost invisible weld. Scratches may easily be removed by polishing or by heating the surface of the material.

Laser cutting may be used to form intricate designs from PMMA sheets. PMMA vaporizes to gaseous compounds (including its monomers) upon laser cutting, so a very clean cut is made, and cutting is performed very easily. However, the pulsed lasercutting introduces high internal stresses along the cut edge, which on exposure to solvents produce undesirable "stress-crazing" at the cut edge and several millimetres deep. Even ammonium-based glass-cleaner and almost everything short of soap-and-water produces similar undesirable crazing, sometimes over the entire surface of the cut parts, at great distances from the stressed edge. Annealing the PMMA sheet/parts is therefore an obligatory post-processing step when intending to chemically bond lasercut parts together. This involves heating the parts in an air circulating oven from room temperature up to 90 °C (at a rate of no more than 18 degrees per hour) down to room temperature (at a rate of no more than 12 degrees per hour). Temperature should be maintained as follows: one hour for 3 mm thickness, two hours for up to 6 mm thickness, four hours for up to 12 mm thickness, and six hours for up to 20 mm thickness. A rapid annealing cycle is reliable for thin sheets and involves placing them in a pre-heated oven to 80  °C for one hour, then removing parts from the oven and allowing to cool to room temperature. This added time component should be factored into the whole fabrication process, and the alternative Zero-rake sawcutting technique may provide better cost-effectiveness, unless complex non-straight line edges are required. In this respect PMMA has an advantage over competing polymers such as polystyrene and polycarbonate, which require higher laser powers and give more messy and charred laser cuts.

In the majority of applications, it will not shatter. Rather, it breaks into large dull pieces. Since PMMA is softer and more easily scratched than glass, scratch-resistant coatings are often added to PMMA sheets to protect it (as well as possible other functions).

[Chiefy]

I dropped my MS batwing fairing in the garage and a large chunk of the handguard broke off. Does anyone know what it's made off? I don't know what to use to glue it back,if it's even possible...

I'll bet the string of profanity that emitted from your garage would have made Ralphie's father blush.