I'm thinking I want to keep the OEM petcock with the vacuum hose because....if I ever did forget to turn the petcock off(which I rarely do when I'm done riding) and I have a carb float hang-up and flood one of the cylinders, THAT potential hydrolock/starter gear break would be a substantially more expensive repair than just installing a new petcock diaphyram assembly...right?.....I hated get stranded on the side of the road a few weeks ago because of the inside of the diaphyram coming apart, but it least it wasn't a hydrolock situation...What are your thoughts on that?....I guess the vac system is a kind of "insurance"?....when it's working right that is...
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IMHO below is the problem. Dirt? each carb fuel supply connection on the body of each carb has a fine filter screen, just like the one inside of the tank.
Use a snupper like in my other post, this will let the new repair kit last a long time.
Re: Another hydrolock question
Posted By: 98valk <
fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 9/4/2008 at 12:30:31
In Response To: Another hydrolock question (G-Man (Gary in NY))
this is from Rider mag sept 1988 about the '88 goldwing GL1500.
they had the hydro-lock problem and it turned out to be the bowl vent hose was sagging. "the low spotfills with gas and prevents air circulation, much like a sink trap. without a connection to atmosphere, the float bowls pressurize and raw fuel is forced up and out of the carbs through the needle jet. From there gravity takes the fuel down the intake runners. if that cylinder has an open intake valve, hydrolock." "The article states that honda issued a Product Update kit on a fix in feb of that yr which included a metal air-vent pipe and a vacuum fuel valve."
Looking at the service manual pics in the carb section it shows the vent hoses as straight sections just laying loosely on top of other hoses. My 98's vent hoses have a 90 degree end. the end is installed into holes in the rear carb support frame.
So this might be the reason and cause of the problem for some bikes.
