This sucks! Clutch damper plate rivets...

[PSUbag]

My clutch started acting weird, only pulling half way in, differing release points, etc...  I did a search here and found this http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,20870.0.html
thread. Sounds like my rivets are going bye bye. This looks like it might be a little too advanced for my mechanical skills, so I called the local dealer. They said all the parts were $349.00 (minus the basket) which actually sounds about right. But they said it would be 6-7 hours of labor at $65.00 per.    The guy said "We have to pull the engine out" which according to the thread above, is a load of crap. Valkpilot also said that he probably really didn't need anything but the damper plate and the gasket,
which would knock the parts down to around $90.00. My bike just started doing this and I parked it right away so hopefully the basket didn't get chewed up.

Any members near me (Central Pennsylvania) ever tackle this job? I'd be more than happy to pay you and supply your favorite food and beverages!  

For others that have done this job. How bad is it? I do routine stuff myself, and have replaced fork seals, but I don't have a work bench or elaborate tools and equipment. Sadly, I don't have a thousand dollars layin around either.

[PSUbag]

Forgot to add, it a '98 Standard with 108,000 miles. 

[R J]

The engine does not need to be pulled to change out a clutch.

Watched Dragbars change his in the Ground Zero parking lot of InZane II.

I've wrenched a lot in my life time, but it was fun to watch him change the clutch with home made tools.     He had a knack for working on a Valkyrie.

[BD Bruce]

My '97 Tourer had the same problem with my clutch at about 75K miles (5 years ago), I ordered all new clutch plates and clutch spring (Purchased Barnett "Racing"plates and HD spring) before I opened it up and checked it out, my symptons were slipping when accelerating hard and unable to completely disengage the clutch even when the lever was pulled in all the way.
Once I got the clutch out I found that half the brass rivits that held the 2 damper plates together had sheared off and the springs that hold the plates apart where stacked up and made a "High Point" in the clutch plate stack. The original OEM plates were really in good condition, but with new ones in hand, I installed them.

I ordered a OEM replacement damper and re-assembled, no more clutch problems.

Last week I've noticed the under load acceleration is now slipping a bit (3 years later and my bike now has 109, 342 miles).
Does anyone know if these damper plates are made by an aftermarket company? Now that my OEM ones have failed twice, maybe someone else has made a better damper plate?

[F6BANGER]

When I did mine, the hardest part was pulling of the center cover. That needs to come off to get to all the bolts. If you can do fork seals, you can do this. Maybe have the dealer put the clutch assembly together for you in a basket, take it out of the basket and take it home and install it. I had my back tire off for more room but was putting on another car tire anyway.

Like everyone says, make sure you put the tilt sensor back in correctly when you put it back together.

[Valkpilot]

My clutch started acting weird, only pulling half way in, differing release points, etc...  I did a search here and found this http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,20870.0.html
thread. Sounds like my rivets are going bye bye. This looks like it might be a little too advanced for my mechanical skills, so I called the local dealer. They said all the parts were $349.00 (minus the basket) which actually sounds about right. But they said it would be 6-7 hours of labor at $65.00 per.    The guy said "We have to pull the engine out" which according to the thread above, is a load of crap. Valkpilot also said that he probably really didn't need anything but the damper plate and the gasket,
which would knock the parts down to around $90.00. My bike just started doing this and I parked it right away so hopefully the basket didn't get chewed up.

Any members near me (Central Pennsylvania) ever tackle this job? I'd be more than happy to pay you and supply your favorite food and beverages!  

For others that have done this job. How bad is it? I do routine stuff myself, and have replaced fork seals, but I don't have a work bench or elaborate tools and equipment. Sadly, I don't have a thousand dollars layin around either.

Here's another good thread on the subject (with links to a couple more.) http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,30321.0.html I was afraid to get into this job because I'd never done a clutch before and wasn't sure what it would entail.  Now that I've done it, it seems pretty simple. 

The point is, you can probably do it, if you have access to the right tools.

And, you've got the benefit of all the helpful folks here!

[Grumpy]

When I did mine, the hardest part was pulling of the center cover. That needs to come off to get to all the bolts. If you can do fork seals, you can do this. Maybe have the dealer put the clutch assembly together for you in a basket, take it out of the basket and take it home and install it. I had my back tire off for more room but was putting on another car tire anyway.

Like everyone says, make sure you put the tilt sensor back in correctly when you put it back together.

Why would you mess with the tilt sensor, I have changed 5 clutches on Valkyries, and probably a dozen on 1500 Wings. never did any thing except lift the bike high enough to get under it, remove the slave cyl, and the clutch rear cover. Never had to remove center covers etc to get to the clutch. I can get all the bolts out with a 1/4 inch drive set and a couple of swivel sockets.

[tank_post142]

i'm with grumpy, but i did mine flat on the ground by pulling the alternator( piece of cake) did the whole job in approx 4 hours in my parking lot.

[F6BANGER]

When I did mine, the hardest part was pulling of the center cover. That needs to come off to get to all the bolts. If you can do fork seals, you can do this. Maybe have the dealer put the clutch assembly together for you in a basket, take it out of the basket and take it home and install it. I had my back tire off for more room but was putting on another car tire anyway.

Like everyone says, make sure you put the tilt sensor back in correctly when you put it back together.

Why would you mess with the tilt sensor, I have changed 5 clutches on Valkyries, and probably a dozen on 1500 Wings. never did any thing except lift the bike high enough to get under it, remove the slave cyl, and the clutch rear cover. Never had to remove center covers etc to get to the clutch. I can get all the bolts out with a 1/4 inch drive set and a couple of swivel sockets.

If I remember correctly, I couldnt get to a couple bolts. I took off the center cover which made it easier for me to get to the bolts.

[chrise2469]

To make your life easier, try a twist handle/rotator ratchet.  Worked fantastic on mine.  Not the same model as mine but you get the idea.

Tools-n-all Facom J.360 Rotator Ratchet	powered by Aeva

You can hit almost every bolt from below and the rest from the top.

The only other tools you need are the sockets and snap ring pliers, anything else can be made.

[MP]

Neat!  Never heard of a ratchet like that.  Now, I need one! Or probably several sizes.

MP

[Hook#3287]

GREAT, Thanks alot chrise2469, now I got to go out and find those!

[Hook#3287]

This is not a complicated job and any one with medium wrenching experience can do it.  If you did your fork seals, I bet you can do this also.

A impact driver is helpful to remove the lock nut.  You may consider getting a new lock washer but I re-used mine.

When I did mine, the hardest part was pulling of the center cover. That needs to come off to get to all the bolts. If you can do fork seals, you can do this. Maybe have the dealer put the clutch assembly together for you in a basket, take it out of the basket and take it home and install it. I had my back tire off for more room but was putting on another car tire anyway.

Like everyone says, make sure you put the tilt sensor back in correctly when you put it back together

I did mine over 6 years ago, but I don't remember removing the center cover.  But I like the idea of having a "Experienced Mechanic" doing the clutch plates in the basket part, as I remember getting everything lined up was a hasslle.

Go for it, good luck!

[PSUbag]

Thanks for all the advise and tips. I guess I'm gonna give it a go by myself.    I'll probably be back on here buggin you guys for more help shortly! 

[PSUbag]

Ok, I made it to the big clutch nut. I saw where F6Dave made a tool to keep the center clutch from turning. Does anyone know how, and what was used to make it? Is he using the 4 threaded holes or the holes in the center clutch?

Worst part so far was getting the kickstand out of the way, and that one bolt on the upper right that's hard to get too. (Kickstand bolts were very rusty and tight)

Any help on how to make the tool will be greatly appreciated!

[Hook#3287]

Is this what your asking about?

He used a 2x4 and drilled a hole in the center big enough for the socket, then 4 holes lined up so he could install 4 bolts w washers.  Holding the board, he can tourqe the nut (or remove it).   Looks pretty simple to make.

I thought when I did it, I just put the bike in 4th  or 5th gear.  But I could be wrong, it was a while ago.

[PSUbag]

Yeah, that's it. I was wondering if the bolts were threaded into the bearing plate holes or if he was using the slots in the center piece. It looks like the slots, but it's hard to tell.

Has anyone gotten this nut off with just a ratchet? Or do you have to have an impact wrench?

[tank_post142]

i used a 1'2 ratchet and just hit it with a good sized hammer. remember to fold down the lock washer first!  =me

[F6Dave]

You're probably finished by now, but in case anyone else is having the clutch rivit problem here's my post from last year:  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,30038.0.html

It really is not difficult.  The biggest problem I read about was misalignment of the clutch pack keeping it from fitting in the basket.  The method I used made that part very easy.

[PSUbag]

Done? Hah!    I finally got the clutch out of the basket yesterday morning and took it to the dealer for them to do the plates. After trying for almost a whole day to get the nut off that holds it in (by myself) I went to the dealer and asked if I could borrow their tool. They let me take it. I was all happy until I got it home and it wasn't right either.   The collars that are supposed to go down over the threaded studs were too big and they didn't give me the longer bolts you need either. Then I remembered my brother has an impact wrench and that someone said that's what they used. Popped that sucker right off without holding the clutch center.   The dealer is supposed to just replace the parts that are bad and put it back together. Waiting to hear back from them today. While I was scraping the old gasket off the cover last night, I did find a piece of rivet laying in there.

One thing about putting it back together that has me worried is, I tied the clutch lever to the grip as was said, and then later I read in the manual that you should block the lever from being pulled in? Is this gonna be a problem? I had some shaft sticking out of the slave cylinder when I took it off, and there isn't any in Valkpilot's pic.

Hope like hell that the plates just slide right in the basket when I get them back. I hate having my bike in pieces like this! I gotta just keep telling myself I'm saving a bunch of money, lol.

Thanks again for all the help guys!

[F6Dave]

I expect that the dealer got it aligned properly.  I read that they assemble the plate stack in a basket to be sure they align.  My method worked pretty good, too.

That rod in the slave cylinder is supposed to be there.  Lube it while you have it apart.

[PSUbag]

FINALLY got my bike back today! The dealer that I took my clutch plates to, said they needed the clutch basket to assemble the plates. I could not find a deep well socket anywhere that size, so I borrowed my nephew's pick-up (A Harley Ford! Oh the horror!) loaded up the bike and took it the 40 miles to the shop. I took all the parts along and just told them to put it back together. They had it for about a week and finally got it put back together today. They charged me $196.00 for the damper plate, gasket, gallon of oil, and labor, which I didn't think was too bad. I'm just glad it's over with! All together my bike was out of commission for almost a month. 

If I had the proper tools, and a decent workshop, I probably could've finished the job by myself. My hat is off to you guys that can get this job done in a few hours or even a few days for that matter. It took me that long just to get everything apart!

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help you gave. Even though I had to pay the dealer almost $200.00, I still think I saved myself a bunch of money. If I would've just taken it there at the start, I'm sure they would've told me I needed all the plates and the basket, etc... and the bill would've been like $800.00. 

Thanks again! You guys rock! 

[mmurffy03]

my local dealer gets $90.bucks an hour labor plus $7.00 tax

[PSUbag]

Yikes!     Track N Trail in St. College, Pa., is $65.00 per hour.