Engine Removal

[RLD]

Just bought a nice 99 I/S that was hydrolocked. Any tips on engine removal? Do I need to lift the bike or can I just lower the engine utilizing my bike lift if the cycle is in a wheel chock? Also, do I dare run the engine this way just to make sure nothing else is wrong before teardown? TIA

BTW. I've been "Valkless" since a deer totaled my 99 I/S  with 107k last fall. This one only has 13k, but has the aformentioned problem. Feels good to be back.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Man with that low milage I think I'ld fix the broken parts and run it.

[RLD]

That's the plan, but I need to remove the engine to do so.

[Garland]

I managed to do it by myself with a regular motorcycle jack, but it would be easier with an extra pair of hands.  Get a service manual, and search the old tech archives for information. If you are lucky, you will just have to replace a couple gears, a hundred bucks or so. In my case, I could see the broken gears just by pulling the starter and looking in the rear case.

[Master Blaster]

Just changed one in the custom, used the larger Harbor Freight wheel chock and my jack.  Worked like a charm.  The chock held it steady without any extra tiedowns.  Not to big of a job, but an extra set of hands does come in handy.  My jack is the all aluminum one with the handle like a floor jack.  The handle removes so its easy to work around, and it is not as bulky as a conventional M/C jack.

[jammer]

Check Big BF's site.  He did the engine removal for the OD gear mod.   I think there are some pics of his procedure.


G

[RLD]

Thanks for the feedback. I did get it out this past weekend. Next questions; does anyone have the tools to pull all the stuff on the back of the motor? My case is cracked and will need replacing, along with a couple of gears. I'd be more than willing to rent or even purchase them. I live in Eden Prairie, MN. If you'd rent them to me, and you're not from this area, I'd gladly pay shipping round trip. Any recomendations for a source for the rear case?

[RLD]

Turns out the rear case is only $178. I'll just order a new one. I thought it would be much worse. Still could use a little help with tools. Anyone?

[Jeff K]

What do you need? It is probably cheaper to make the sockets.

[RLD]

The manual recommends:

1) Clutch center pin holder - 07VMB-MZ00100 0r 07VMB-MZ00100A
1) Holder plate - 07HGB-001010B or 07HGB-001010A
1) Driver attachment - 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
1) Clutch outer holder - 07JMB-MN50100
1) 46mm locknut wrench - 07JMA-MN50100
1) main shaft holder - 07JMB-MN50200
1) locknut wrench 30x64mm - 30 x 64 mm 07916-MB00002 or 07916-MB00001

Any comments, do I really need all these tools? I can imagine they're going to cost as much as the actual parts.
Thanks Jeff for the ideas, I will put them to use and save a few bucks.

[Garland]

You don't need the wrenches to hold things if you use the homemade sockets pictured above with an impact drill. There are several write-ups and tips in the old tech archives.

[RLD]

How would I then torque them during the install? The other thing that confuses me is, do I need the clutch holder parts (Clutch center holder pin, Holder plate, Clutch outer holder)? Seems they keep the clutch together during dis-assembly, but I'm not sure. I am in the process of making the sockets above. Thanks again for the help. I've done all my own work on my previous Valk, but I never had to go into the engine so this part is new to me.

[RLD]

I give up! Where are the old tech archives? I've just spent 20 minutes looking to no avail. That is a wealth of knowledge that I would really like to tap into.

[Garland]

I only needed the #16 and #18 gears on the primary drive gear fiche page. In reading the service manual, it called for replacement of some nuts when reassembling, so I ordered those also. I am ashamed to say that I did not torque those 2 or 3 awkward specialty nuts, I shot them on there with the impact driver. I am already consigned to the ring in hell reserved for Darksiders anyway, so I had nothing to lose.

The old archives are at the top of this page next to classifieds. If you can't see it it is because you are not using the default theme under your profile.


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi

[Jeff K]

I am ashamed to say that I did not torque those 2 or 3 awkward specialty nuts, I shot them on there with the impact driver.


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi

You're not alone. I even reuse the nutz a time or two. 

[Grumpy]

Just bought a nice 99 I/S that was hydrolocked. Any tips on engine removal? Do I need to lift the bike or can I just lower the engine utilizing my bike lift if the cycle is in a wheel chock? Also, do I dare run the engine this way just to make sure nothing else is wrong before teardown? TIA

BTW. I've been "Valkless" since a deer totaled my 99 I/S  with 107k last fall. This one only has 13k, but has the aformentioned problem. Feels good to be back.

 I pulled the engine on my Interstate last year, one trick I learned is to leave the carbs on the bike. I pulled the intakes and disconnected the vacuum lines, then held up the carb bank with bungee cords. saves removing throttle cables etc. then removed the mounts etc, and lowered the motor down with a mc jack. Not a bad job, about 3 hrs to have it out and on the bench. If needed I have pictures I can send you. Here is a link to some of the pictures of the removal. http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20256908

[cutter]

I pulled mine out to replace the case that the alternator mounts up to. Wasn't a bad job to do. I used four heavy duty straps to lift the bike frame from the motor and had the lift under the motor. I had the bike on the lift to make it easier to work on then lifted the frame from there. I left the carbs on and disconnected what I had to. Just take your time and remember where it all went. I did have to remove the starter to get the motor free. I made the sockets that Jeff K posted and that made it a breeze to remove the cluch and output shaft nuts. I replace all the seal and bearings just cause I had it apart. If you replace the bearings listen up, the parts number for the output shaft bearing for the I/S is WRONG in HONDA's part phist. Took them 3 tries to get it. Had to bring in the bearing so they could get the correct number from it. It went back in the bike faster than the removal. Good luck

[RLD]

Can anyone tell me the diameters of the bolts the two modified sockets shown above have to go over? I'm at work and I'm not sure the material I have on hand has a large enough ID.

[RLD]

FYI. The sockets need to be 12 point!! Modified two sockets, went home for the weekend to pull the rear case, and the sockets were 6 point. Total waste of time and money. Don't make the same mistake. Thanks for the help guys, just wanted to clarify incase anyone reads this thread and wants to make their own tools.

[RLD]

OK, getting frustrated. I've been to Menards, Home Depot, Mill's Fleet Farm, Napa, Northern tool, Local hardware store, Sears (Mall of america, HUGE) and I cannot find 12 point sockets with sharp corners to match the nuts. Everything is rounded (large inside radii where the nut has sharp corners) and therefore will not go onto to a sharp edged nut. What am I missing? I'm about ready to give up and send Honda $120 for two sockets, but I also need them this weekend to continue my project and I'd never get them before mid next week now. Any ideas or help?????

[chrise2469]

RLD, I'm doing google searches (I'm in Winnipeg not much help to ya)- Advance auto  parts has a 12 pt 36mm don't know if it helps at all.

Try a search for 36mm bmw axle socket.  maybe there is a vendor for that in the twin cities.  The Socket looks like whats on the bike
http://www.asttool.com/detail_page.php?from_search=y&tool_number=6500%20X-36&total=156&offset=9&stype=searchbox&keywords=36mm%20socket

Several other people have said they found 46mm and a 36mm at Sears.  These are older posts so don't know if they would still have it.

Thats about all the help I can give you.  Best of luck finding this stuff

[duckee]

I would try to buddy up with someone at the Honda shop and see if they would let you borrow them with maybe a deposit and a couple of bucks on the side.  Off the books if you have to(hence on the side).

[RLD]

The sockets at sears all have the inside radii. They will not work on a nut that has sharp edges. I have never seen a nut with rounded edges. Is this something new?

[Garland]

I feel your pain. I must have made 8 or 9 trips to Harbor Freight, Sears, and every local auto parts store before I could even get the rear case apart .I ended up having to order the larger socket from Snap On from a mechanic next door, and was able to find a deep socket 12 point in his toolbox that worked (barely) without any modification on the smaller one. I would imagine you could order one from Sears, too, but Snap On had it here the next day.

[paul]

Hey,,just wanting to know if the 36mm and 1-13/16 were deep well sockets before adding the 2inchs....TIA ...Woundnt mind making them up to have in the tool box.......

[Jeff K]

Hey,,just wanting to know if the 36mm and 1-13/16 were deep well sockets before adding the 2inchs....TIA ...Woundnt mind making them up to have in the tool box.......

The 36 was, the 1-13/16 was not.

[Bagger John - #3785]

1) Clutch center pin holder - 07VMB-MZ00100 0r 07VMB-MZ00100A
1) Holder plate - 07HGB-001010B or 07HGB-001010A
1) Driver attachment - 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
1) Clutch outer holder - 07JMB-MN50100
1) 46mm locknut wrench - 07JMA-MN50100
1) main shaft holder - 07JMB-MN50200
1) locknut wrench 30x64mm - 30 x 64 mm 07916-MB00002 or 07916-MB00001

At one time, you could enter these numbers in most of the online 'fiche's "Search" fields and be able to order them directly.

Now...no dice.

Where and how are you folks buying your OEM service tools these days?

[RLD]

If you call Honda Direct Line and give them the part numbers, they will send them to you. These two sockets have a retail of about $75 ea though.