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Author Topic: Progressive shocks  (Read 1005 times)
f6john
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Posts: 9743


Christ first and always

Richmond, Kentucky


« on: May 07, 2012, 08:29:33 PM »

   In my haste to install my new to me 440 shocks, I just pulled the stockers and threw the 440's on. I never gave any thought to how they were adjusted as they came to me or how to adjust them on the bike. They don't have any adjustment markings on the body that I saw. Anyone have a tutorial on the correct way to set these shocks up?
 
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Robdawg13
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Posts: 56



« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2012, 09:07:15 PM »

Grab the top part of the shock and the spring and turn both together.  There are a total of 10 turns from soft to firm.  No special tools required and no markings to set them by, just keep track of the turns from either full soft or full firm and turn the other one the same amount.
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I don't want a pickle
I just want to ride my motor-sickle
donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2012, 09:12:47 PM »


  just installed a set about 6 weeks ago and have gone about 1500 mi on back roads.  forgot to adust up and have not bottomed out and they are "progressive" so more resistance as they are compressed.  will probably move them up a few notches and try them that way.

  Where are you Jess from VA?  Help him out.   cooldude

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Don
FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4350


Brazil, IN


« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2012, 03:56:18 AM »

I kept turning mine to the stiffer side and rode the roughest road I normally ride after each adjustment. When they got stiff enough that I started to experience "wheel hop" over the big bumps I backed the shocks off just enough that it went away. That setting is a little stiff with just me and a little slack with my main passenger but good enough in both circumstances. If I'm taking a trip with passenger and full luggage, I stiffen them up 1/4 turn.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice.
And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.''
-- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16802


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2012, 04:05:35 AM »


A $5 rubber strap wrench from sears (or wherever) makes it easy to
turn the cap... if the cap is all-the-way loose, you can't see any of the
threads it turns on. As you crank it down, you start seeing more and more
of the threads it turns on. I call it good when it seems like the same amount
of threads are showing on each side. If you bottom out over every bridge
expansion joint, you need to crank it down more. If you never-ever-never
bottom out even on the most gnarly hit, you're not using all your travel.

Spending all day blasting over gnarly pot-holes searching for where it
bottoms out is probably ill-advised  coolsmiley ...

-Mike
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f6john
Member
*****
Posts: 9743


Christ first and always

Richmond, Kentucky


« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2012, 06:51:03 AM »

    Thanks for everyone's input. I'll get out there tonight and play with them and see what I come up with.
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