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Chillerman
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« on: May 14, 2012, 03:24:20 PM » |
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Ok, I have already completed the Ect mod with the 3.9k ohm resistor and the 10k potentiometer so I don't need any help with that. Bike runs great, mod seems to work just as expected.
My question is this, the 3.9k ohm resistor is supposed to give you 10 degrees of advanced timing. With the resistor in parallel with a 10k ohm pot, your maximum resistance is only about 2.8k ohms. Doing the math 1/(1/10000+1/3900) = 2806 and measuring with my meter I got about 2750 ohms. If this is the case I am not getting a full 10 degrees of advance at the full stroke of the potentiometer as I would with a straight 3.9k ohm resistor.
This doesn't really bother me as I think 10 degrees total advance may be too much, but according to my math I would need a 6500 ohm resistor in parallel with the potentiometer to get the full 10 degrees advance. Am I thinking correctly?
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2012, 05:59:15 PM » |
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It's been so long, and trying to remember the correct terminology for electricity.
Parallel is when they are beside each other (like a 2 lane highway is in parallel).
Series is when one is placed after the other (one car following another).
I never looked at the mode, never got around to it when I have my IS. Put you said the resistor and the pot are in parallel, so what would the resistance be? It would equal what it reads across each resistor, not there combination.
I would have thought that the pot and fixed resistor would have been placed in series. If I am correct, then the fixed resistance (3.9K) + the variable = setting. The pot would be what, a min fixed rate, like 1K, or would it be zero resistance variable up to 10K ohms? So you would have a resistance of 3.9K to a maz of 13.9K . Someone mention a while ago about using a fixed resistance instead of the pot and living with the degrees of advance that, that gave him.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Chillerman
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2012, 06:11:38 PM » |
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Well the pot is 0-10000 ohm and the resistor is in parallel with the pot not series. As I have checked the resistance with my multimeter I know that the resistance with the pot and resistor range from almost 0 to 2800 (not 3900) which would be correct using the proper math. I was just wondering if that was a consideration in the writeup in shoptalk. Image from shoptalk  |
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« Last Edit: May 14, 2012, 06:18:10 PM by Chillerman »
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
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RP#62
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2012, 06:29:20 PM » |
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Resistance in parallel = (R1 x R2)/(R1 + R2) At one end of the spectrum, both resistors are bypassed and there's no added resistance. As you turn the knob, you put the 3.9K resistor in parallel with say 1K ohms of the POT, giving a total resistance of 800 ohms. As you turn the knob to the other extreme, the 3.9K resistor is in parallel with the full 10K, which would yield a total resistance of 2.8K. -RP  |
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wild6
Member
Posts: 251
(Old enough to know better)
Vernon, NJ
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2012, 08:47:51 PM » |
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I did mine with the 3.9k and the 10k pot.
With the pot all the way up, the engine will ping if you twist a little too much below 2000rpm.
I keep mine at about 50% (center). That gives me the benefits without having to keep the rpm up.
I don't know what advance I'm running, but it feels and works great.
A 10k audio taper pot reads 1000 ohms at center.
That makes the resultant resistance (with the parallel resistor) about 736 ohms.
So, I don't think you should worry about the resistor value. Just use the 3.9k.
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  “Meddle not in the affairs of the Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.” |
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Chillerman
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2012, 03:22:23 PM » |
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Resistance in parallel = (R1 x R2)/(R1 + R2) At one end of the spectrum, both resistors are bypassed and there's no added resistance. As you turn the knob, you put the 3.9K resistor in parallel with say 1K ohms of the POT, giving a total resistance of 800 ohms. As you turn the knob to the other extreme, the 3.9K resistor is in parallel with the full 10K, which would yield a total resistance of 2.8K. -RP Thanks RP, that's what I am seeing and was trying to say with my earlier posts. I guess I need to rephrase the question. Has anyone added a 6.5k ohm resistor to the 10k ohm pot so that it would match the 3.9k ohm resistance at full stroke? The formula I was taught for resistance in parallel is Rt=1/(1/R1+1/R2) but I guess it works out the same. |
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« Last Edit: May 15, 2012, 03:32:37 PM by Chillerman »
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
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Chillerman
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« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2012, 03:34:20 PM » |
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I did mine with the 3.9k and the 10k pot.
With the pot all the way up, the engine will ping if you twist a little too much below 2000rpm.
I keep mine at about 50% (center). That gives me the benefits without having to keep the rpm up.
I don't know what advance I'm running, but it feels and works great.
A 10k audio taper pot reads 1000 ohms at center.
That makes the resultant resistance (with the parallel resistor) about 736 ohms.
So, I don't think you should worry about the resistor value. Just use the 3.9k.
Maybe I will just leave well enough alone!  |
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
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BlueValk
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2012, 01:46:41 PM » |
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Ok, I have already completed the Ect mod with the 3.9k ohm resistor and the 10k potentiometer so I don't need any help with that. Bike runs great, mod seems to work just as expected.
My question is this, the 3.9k ohm resistor is supposed to give you 10 degrees of advanced timing. With the resistor in parallel with a 10k ohm pot, your maximum resistance is only about 2.8k ohms. Doing the math 1/(1/10000+1/3900) = 2806 and measuring with my meter I got about 2750 ohms. If this is the case I am not getting a full 10 degrees of advance at the full stroke of the potentiometer as I would with a straight 3.9k ohm resistor.
This doesn't really bother me as I think 10 degrees total advance may be too much, but according to my math I would need a 6500 ohm resistor in parallel with the potentiometer to get the full 10 degrees advance. Am I thinking correctly?
Not to worry. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, full advance is achieved at 2.5kohm. The extra resistance is for slop/tolerance, etc. BTW, if the resistance is too high the advance is disabled (at about 18kohm). I guess that was in case the sensor ever opened up. BlueValk |
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2012, 01:54:26 PM by BlueValk »
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Bullgoose
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2012, 02:27:42 PM » |
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I bought the kit made by someone here when they first came out. Install went fine. Years past. When I took the cover off the other day, I noticed one of the wires was disconnected. (See pic). Any thots on where that loose should go?  |
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 If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing! |
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Chillerman
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2012, 03:48:19 PM » |
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Ok, I have already completed the Ect mod with the 3.9k ohm resistor and the 10k potentiometer so I don't need any help with that. Bike runs great, mod seems to work just as expected.
My question is this, the 3.9k ohm resistor is supposed to give you 10 degrees of advanced timing. With the resistor in parallel with a 10k ohm pot, your maximum resistance is only about 2.8k ohms. Doing the math 1/(1/10000+1/3900) = 2806 and measuring with my meter I got about 2750 ohms. If this is the case I am not getting a full 10 degrees of advance at the full stroke of the potentiometer as I would with a straight 3.9k ohm resistor.
This doesn't really bother me as I think 10 degrees total advance may be too much, but according to my math I would need a 6500 ohm resistor in parallel with the potentiometer to get the full 10 degrees advance. Am I thinking correctly?
Not to worry. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, full advance is achieved at 2.5kohm. The extra resistance is for slop/tolerance, etc. BTW, if the resistance is too high the advance is disabled (at about 18kohm). I guess that was in case the sensor ever opened up. BlueValk Thanks, BlueValk that is the kind of information I was looking for. So anything above 2.5k doesn't do anything extra. |
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2012, 03:49:50 PM by Chillerman »
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
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Chillerman
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2012, 03:58:03 PM » |
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I bought the kit made by someone here when they first came out. Install went fine. Years past. When I took the cover off the other day, I noticed one of the wires was disconnected. (See pic). Any thots on where that loose should go? If there is a diode under that shrink wrap, my guess is it goes to that blue wire nut in your picture. It should tie into the green and black wire going into that blue two pin connector. Here is the picture I was following.  |
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2012, 04:12:28 PM by Chillerman »
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!
Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2012, 07:19:27 AM » |
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The formula I was taught for resistance in parallel is Rt=1/(1/R1+1/R2) but I guess it works out the same.
Both formulas work for two resistors, but RP's formula doesn't apply to 3 or more resistors, where yours will. Rt=1/(1/R1+1/R2+...+1/Rn) |
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turtle254
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« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2017, 07:23:34 AM » |
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Not to worry. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, full advance is achieved at 2.5kohm. The extra resistance is for slop/tolerance, etc.
BTW, if the resistance is too high the advance is disabled (at about 18kohm). I guess that was in case the sensor ever opened up.
BlueValk
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I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.
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