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Author Topic: valk cuts out around 3500 rpm  (Read 2130 times)
jrcody1127
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Posts: 25


« on: May 20, 2012, 04:05:20 PM »

help. 99 valk will not go above 3500 rpm. i just did de smog and changed slow jets to 38 and shimmed needle and also ect mod. everything looks good. except iam not sure of the petcock vac line i hooked it to # 6 intake manifold and to me that seems wrong because i thought under full throttle you had no vacum so gas would shut off and that what it feels like it is doing is running out of gas. i wennt back and disconnected the ect mod thought maybe that was it but no please any thoughts.

thanks jim
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Blackduck
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Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2012, 04:12:08 PM »

The vac hose goes to the #6 intake tube.
Did you do anything to the airbox while desmogging? Have you checked the colour of the sparkplugs?
Sounds like to lean or too rich, my guess would be too lean. Have you double checked that you plugged all openings?
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
jrcody1127
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Posts: 25


« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2012, 04:34:44 PM »

yes on the air box. i cut the top off and lft the frame that holds in the filter so it can be screwed down. i also by accident left out the shroud over the back of the fan. it was running to lean befor so went to 38 slows and shimmed neddles should have richened it up.also one of the air tubes that i cut is leaking a little would that cause lack of vacume to the petcock. its seems like it runs out of gas.

thanks
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15209


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2012, 05:06:25 PM »

After all these years experimenting with modifying the airbox, nearly everyone that has tried to change it has found out the Honda engineers did a great job. Turns out there is very little room for improvement on it, if any. If you cut the top off so the intake filter is exposed, that's simply too much air. PERIOD! All the bikes I've installed #38 slow jets in I have never messed with the airbox. Same goes with a desmog, the only thing you have to do to the airbox is plug the forward most hole on the bottom since that's where the smog stuff attached. Never had to shim the needles, only turned the pilot screw to roughly 1 3/4 turns out. Some bikes ran better a full 2 turns out.

My suggestion....put the airbox back to OEM condition, remove the shims on the needles and set the pilots at 2 full turns to start with. Make certain all vacuum ports on the back of the intake runners are capped off due to the desmog and leave the petcock hose on #6 where it belongs.  THEN....if you want to change something, do ONE thing at a time and if it doesn't give you what you're looking for, put it back where it was and move to the next step.
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Blackduck
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Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2012, 05:49:35 PM »

Have to agree with John on this.
Definitely the airbox being the problem.
I have modified mine and as John said it takes a lot of messing with jets to get it to run right.
Mine is good now but took a long time to get right.
Repair the airbox or go to around 127/130 main jets as a starting point.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2012, 07:07:12 AM »

Me too ! I agree !  Put it back the way it should be..
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2012, 11:57:33 AM »

Start out by replacing the modified air box.

I have 6 of them in my garage from messing/playing with the air box.   None of my mods worked worth a crap.   Was a total waste of $$$$, and like I said it took 6 of them to find that out.

You just make more work for yourself and I'll guarantee ya, you can't make it run better messing with the air box.    In that area Honda did a good job.

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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

jrcody1127
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Posts: 25


« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2012, 12:32:07 PM »

thanks for the replys.

i thought maybe it was the vacum cutting out at the #6 manifold, so i mad the pet rooster manual.
it seemed to be better it run to about 4000 rpm and the cut out i then put the pre filter over the new k&n filter and it got a little better about 4800 rpm and then it cuts out so it must be the airbox.
i am waiting for the epoxy to dry on the repaired back to stock airbox and i will let ya know. about another hour to dry.

thanks jim
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15209


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2012, 01:03:20 PM »

Good on you for repairing the airbox. As for #6 vacuum, it's constant so there's no "cutting out" involved.

Just for your information, on a recent repair job I did I was running the engine without the tank or airbox mounted....used an external "tuning" tank hanging on the handlebar. I always do that before putting all the other stuff back on just to make sure there's no fuel leaks and the floats shut off properly before I even start it the first time. In this situation, the rpm wouldn't go much over 2700....too much air flow. It will sound just like it's running out of gas. Mounted the airbox when I was satisfied there were no leaks, it then would rev to the limit.
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jrcody1127
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Posts: 25


« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2012, 07:30:39 PM »

thanks everyone for the replys.

its official, you cannot modify the airbox. i had to find out for myself. even just the kn filter it would cut out around 6500 rpm, i put the pre filter over and walla she goes to limit i think its around 7500.
it realy made a big difference in the lower rpm, the changes i made, befor it felt lazy untill about 4500 prm, but now in first it can brake the tire loose.i would have never gussed the motor is that sensitive to the airflow. my harley i can run with velosity stack and just a screen and all i have to do is go up a couple jets. i like the ect mod it works great and will have to experiment with settings.

thanks agin jim r
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