Drain plug stripped

[Desert Dog]

  I bought a 2000 interstate trike in December, and was pretty pleased with it, until I had the oil changed. The shop mech told me that whoever had done the last oil change had used an oversized drain plug and some JB weld to seal it with. When my guy pulled the plug, the threads came with it. He managed to get it back together, but warned me that I'd better have it repaired ASAP.
The shop they referred me to said that it would have to be helicoilled, and he couldn't give me an estimate without seeing the bike. Anyone have any ideas on possible cost for this type of repair, or any alternative fixes? I don't see any way I can come back on the seller, so I guess I'll just have to suck it up and pay the piper. Thanks for your tips, they've always been helpful.

[John Schmidt]

It's not under any oil pressure, just get an expandable rubber plug similar to what you find in a thermos bottle.

[ptgb]

Back in my hairy-knuckle gorilla days (young), I stripped out the drain plug on my Honda ATV the night before a big ride. Temporarily JBWeld-ed the drain bolt back in to get me through the ride. Had a shop drill it out and helicoiled it, worked great, never had a problem.

I would imagine you can have the hole filled via TIG weld and then drill and tap it that way as well, but probably more difficult and somewhat overkill.

Good luck...

[shooter64]

Heli coils are not difficult to install by the way. Especially when any drill particle residue will be easy to flush by putting in a little new oil to drain and flush. I did a couple on some outboard motor spark plug holes. They are under pressure and years later there was never a problem again. Probably took 15 minutes to do the two spark plug holes.

[Chrisj CMA]

I do not believe a helicoil is what you need or want.  You said the threads came out......helicoils need threads.  They make kits for the very purpose you are experiencing.  you insert a new threaded seat for a new drain plug and its as good as new.  I think the new part is threaded in, but I think there are ones you can epoxy in if theres not enough material to tap
http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert-drain-pan-kits-c-21_35.html
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_41032/time_sert_oil_drain_plug_repair___aluminum_p.html

[Skinhead]

Heli coils are available in kits at most auto parts stores.  They come with a drill bit and tap, the drill is ovesize and the tap creates the new threads for the ouside of the helicoil insert.  The inner threads of the insert are the same as your drain plug(if you buy the right kit).  The helicoil is your best bet and is easy to do if you have any mechanical apptitude at all.  If you don't, find some one that does to help you.

[Robert]

And just one more thing about the helicoil when done make sure the seal covers the helicoil and a little bit of the engine casing. They are easy they do hold but they do leak unless you make sure to seal the threads that are actually contacting the block. Not to much to worry about the metal bits the drain plug hole is in kind of a little hole all its own so the bits will be minimal.

you will notice the hole for the drain plug in the lower right of the case under the bearing boss

[vanagon40]

I may be way off on this, and I'm sure someone will set me straight if I am, but why not ignore the helicoil, find a tap to make new threads, and use a new drain plug the same size as the new threads?

If necessary, make a washer out of gasket material (I have done this many times).

[Robert]

I may be way off on this, and I'm sure someone will set me straight if I am, but why not ignore the helicoil, find a tap to make new threads, and use a new drain plug the same size as the new threads?

If necessary, make a washer out of gasket material (I have done this many times).

Your not way off at all did the same thing the other day and works great. The only reason not to do it is the threads are usually not as good as oem and in aluminum may pull out again at some point in time.

[Skinhead]

you could use a pipe tap and pipe plug if you wanted to shoemaker it, but it'll work just fine aslong as you don't run into porousity in the casting when you cut the new threads.  I used this repair on my '77 HD (what a POS THAT was)