Clutch is STILL slipping....

[PSUbag]

A few weeks ago, I posted about rebuilding my clutch. Long story short, I couldn't get the basket out, so I took the Valk to the dealer so they could arrange the plates. I told them to just put it back together there. They only replaced the damper plate (and the housing gasket). They said all the other plates and parts looked good. I finally got to take it for a ride the other day and the clutch slips when you shift into 4th and 5th gears at heavy throttle.  :'( 

Do I need all the plates? Or do you guys think it's maybe just 1 part, like the spring (#11 in the link)?

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148070&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1998&fveh=3466

Also, do you think I should have to pay more labor? Since they did put it back together and said it was ok?

I'm thinking I should just tell them to go ahead and replace all the plates and the spring, which would cost around $250.00, but if you guys know which part is causing the slippage, maybe I don't need to.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Bag

[Patrick]

OK, so nothing was really wrong ??  Are you sure the hydraulic system or clutch lever  is operating correctly..

[PSUbag]

OK, so nothing was really wrong ??  Are you sure the hydraulic system or clutch lever  is operating correctly..

Originally, the damper plate had 2 rivets gone.

The clutch didn't actually slip then. Sometimes the lever would only pull in half way, and sometimes I'd get a shudder when pulling out.

[R J]

I'd suggest bleeding your clutch system.     Sounds like there might be a ball of air in the line.

[Robert]

What kind of oil are you using? It could also be the spring plate. 

[Blackduck]

Slipping can be from a couple of things. The actuator not releasing properly or the clutch not assembled correctly.
How dos the lever feel? Firm from the first movement or only firming up halfway in?
If firm all the way the clutch master cylinder may not be releasing the hydraulic pressure, soft and the clutch may not have been assembled incorrectly (too much clearance in plates)
Cheers Steve

[chrise2469]

I'm going with a  master cylinder problem, where the return orifice is not working right.  The master cylinder also had a slight leak that developed at -20c.  Rebuilt it and it was good to go.

That's what was wrong with mine.  I should have replaced the clutch line at the same time, if crap is plugging up the hole it has to be coming from somewhere.

[tivoklr]

I went through the same thing recently, but I didn't tear my clutch pack apart once I was able to inspect it. It looked fine.

I was having slipping in 4th and 5th when the bike was hot (1st clue) and erratic clutch lever action (2nd clue). Mind you, had I paid attention to these clues, I could have saved myself a lot of time and aggravation wrenching the clutch out of the bike, but I digress.

The fix for me was to replace the guts of the master cylinder, then I flushed the whole system from the bottom up, which was recommended to me by a neighbor. It worked. My controls are Arlen Ness, not Honda, so my situation is not 100% identical to yours but it sounds similar.

I also should replace the clutch line, this winter. There was black residue in the master cylinder reservoir that came from somewhere. Could be from the MC piston (replaced), could be from the lining of the clutch line (not yet).

[PSUbag]

Ok. I think I will try bleeding the system before anything else. I will let you guys know how it works out. I hope that's all it is!

Thanks

[tivoklr]

Fill it from the bleeder nipple up, worked for me.

[PSUbag]

Bled the system. Fluid clear and no bubbles. Problem still exists. Sigh...

[Ricky-D]

Eliminating all the m/c possibilities leaves but one remaining.

Did the dealer measure the clutch spring height? There's a specification for it!

Same with the friction plates. Wonder if they measured them while it was apart?

With them saying it is Ok, maybe they simply looked at it and assumed it was good!

Some questions, even though after the fact might be in order.

I'd suggest looking in the past threads (search function) and finding how to disassemble the clutch pack yourself and go through it again.

Evidently, something is being missed!

***

[Dozer]

My take, FWIW, may be the clutch spring. Honda plates and clutch disks last a long time when running in the proper oil. The last two clutches I did, I measured the plates and disks with a digital mike. They were well with in tolerence. That was with 60K+ miles. The problem was the clutch spring. Its like a large domed washer that keeps the pressure on the stack. After so many actuations and heat, the "dome" tends to weaken & flatten out causing the pressure on the stack to be reduced, causing the clutch to slip under a load, which will also increase wear on the disks and warp the plates. I put a stock OEM spring back in one bike and a Barnett clutch spring conversion in my Road Star. Man what a difference. I could probably pull tree stumps with that Barnett clutch. But I dont think Barnett makes one for the Valk. Still, I think Id go with a new spring...