Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« on: May 25, 2012, 07:51:59 PM » |
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Howdy all.
I'm thinking my rear brake on my 2000 Interstate does not grip hard enough when I put the brake on.
I have installed new brake pads & lubed the pins.
I have bled out the old brake fluid & now have new fluid in the system.
If I push as hard as I can on the brake pedal, I cannot lock my back wheel up.
Any suggestions on where to look next?
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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art
Member
Posts: 2737
Grants Pass,Or
Grants Pass,Or
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« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2012, 07:54:29 PM » |
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If the pedal is adjusted right I think you have air in the lines.I can lock up my car tire easy.
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2012, 08:04:21 PM » |
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I'll retry bleeding the air from the brake lines again but my "non-brake grip" was happening with the old fluid & still with the new fluid.
There has not been any alterations or changes to my braking system from the original factory settings which adds to my confusion.
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Bugslayer
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« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2012, 08:08:03 PM » |
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I've never had a stong rear brake. Over the years, I've replaced the pads, rebuilt the caliper, replaced the brake lines with SS lines... Even replaced the master cylinder. I've learned to live with it.
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custom1
Member
Posts: 333
01 Interstate
SW Pa
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« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2012, 08:23:45 PM » |
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How long have the new pads been on ? It takes a little while for them to wear in to the rotor.
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John
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old2soon
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« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2012, 08:27:52 PM » |
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My rear brake locked up at the first of the year.  I was surprised how much crud was on the exposed portion of the brake pistons and the amount in the bore.  New O rings a little scotch brite and feels like brand new now.  And no touble at all to lock it up with my darkside choice.  RIDE SAFE. |
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2012, 08:32:18 PM » |
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Thanks Bugslayer.
I'm starting to think like you.
I have replaced my front brake lines to SS & I honestly did not feel a big difference on performance. It is good to know the lines are new but the performance ................ no big difference from stock.
I do have a new rear SS brake line to be installed but I was hoping to rectify this rear brake issue before installing the new SS line.
Thanks for your response!
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2012, 08:36:42 PM » |
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Old2Soon.
This definitely gives me something to think about (& possibly do).
Thanks for your response as I would love to be able to lock my rear brake up.
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2012, 08:42:29 PM » |
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How well did you clean that rear caliper up, did you pop the pistons out and make sure there wasn't any globs of crud in behind them?
How many miles on the new pads? You have a run in time with new pads.
If you have done all the above, I do believe I'd be pulling a master cylinder and making sure it is free of crud. While you have the master cylinder off, ya might just as well install the SS lines.
Crud in the caliper, lack of fluid, and crud in the master cylinder are usually your things that give ya trouble, OH YES, air in the line.
If ya pull the master cylinder and go through it, prime it before ya install it. Prime means, get fresh fluid in all of the crevices of the master cylinder, you are getting the air out so it is easier to bleed later..
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2012, 08:56:12 PM » |
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RJ.
I'll check the caliper for "crud" & probably get a rebuild kit for it.
I feel confident with bleeding brake lines so I think I'll check the other issues that you & the other fine people on the web site have mentioned.
Thanks for your response.
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2012, 10:18:53 PM » |
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Remove the rear brake pedal and clean the rust/crud off the pivot pin and inside the pedal bore.....lube with a water proof grease and you are good to go....
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Grandpa Bigbuck
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« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2012, 05:47:36 AM » |
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Remove the rear brake pedal and clean the rust/crud off the pivot pin and inside the pedal bore.....lube with a water proof grease and you are good to go....
+1 |
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jimmytee
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« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2012, 05:53:00 AM » |
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Definitely agree with posts above about air and crud in system . My 2000 standard with 64000 miles on it seems almost to easy at times to lock the rear wheel up under emergency breaking.
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"Go sell crazy somewhere else,we're all stocked up"
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #13 on: May 26, 2012, 10:22:05 AM » |
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What pads are you using ?? The local Honda shops only stock EBC and I didn't like them.. I prefer the originals..
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #14 on: May 26, 2012, 11:56:16 AM » |
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Remove the rear brake pedal and clean the rust/crud off the pivot pin and inside the pedal bore.....lube with a water proof grease and you are good to go....
+1 Rio Wil and Bigbuck are on the right track, I believe. It made a HUGE difference to my rear brake pedal effort when I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed the brake pedal pivot. |
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Farther
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« Reply #15 on: May 26, 2012, 12:14:16 PM » |
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Like art mentioned, adjust your peddle up slightly to give yourself more travel too.
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Thanks,
~Farther
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #16 on: May 26, 2012, 07:35:06 PM » |
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@ Patrick.
I am using EBC pads this time & used them last time also.
After checking everything today I am leaning towards agreeing with your opinion.
Thanks for posting!
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2012, 08:50:32 PM » |
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@ Steve K.
I took this apart (again) today & re-lubed everything as you described. I was looking for anything not normal but failed to find anything obvious.
My brakes are no different than the were yesterday so I am now leaning towards the pads.
I did notice that the pads are not yet seated in 100% like "Custom1" had insinuated in his post.
I think I'll adjust my brake peddle up a hair as recommended by Art & Farther.
What are others opinions of EBC pads? Are they better once totally mated to the rotors?
We used to race stock cars & I remember some of the best gripping brake pads we ran were soft compound pads. They didn't last near as long as others but they gripped the rotors better for fasting stopping (faster stopping somehow doesn't sound right (lol)).
Thanks for posting Steve!
Some of this information is bound to help others as well.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #19 on: May 27, 2012, 06:47:32 AM » |
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There are different types of brake pads available from EBC.
Metallic, sintered, Kevlar, Organic, ceramic, etc.
They all have different stopping characteristics and wear factors.
Comparing is futile!
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2012, 05:17:29 PM » |
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Not to nit-pick but Futile means "Having no useful result". I think you mean the the opposite of futile which is an "Antonym", which means "useful".
I do think like you Ricky-D & think it of utmost importancy to find the correct brake pads to suit our bikes.
This is where experience from others can save us all a lot of trial & error, not to mention money spent on this learning lesson.
Honda does have this figured out for us & sell this technology to us when we buy their pads. Their pads work!
Thanks for your post Ricky-D!
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Farther
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« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2012, 08:29:50 PM » |
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Imagine that, a nube questioning Ricky-D's use of the king's language.  |
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Thanks,
~Farther
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2012, 08:32:32 PM » |
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Hate to belabor a point, but, did ja remove the brake pedal and clean the crud/rust out of the pivot and re-lube!!!!  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #23 on: May 28, 2012, 06:02:12 AM » |
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It is possible to get one of the caliper pistons stuck crooked in its cylinder. At that point you have less than 50% of the braking strength because only one piston is pushing on the pad and that also will make the pad NOT be flush onto the face of teh rotor. Use a flashlight and a mirror if you have to but get under there and make sure bilt pistons are sqarely pressed on the pad and the pad is swayre on the rotor and the same amount of piston is exposed fopr both pistons
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #24 on: May 28, 2012, 07:48:20 PM » |
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Sorry Farther. I didn't realize the post count was so important to some but I must say .............. don't let my post count fool you . I could have said "EBC Brakes makes only Organic and Sintered Brake pads" (from the EBC website), but I didn't. I prefer(ed) Organic brake pads because of the way they can & are supposed to work. They are inherently “Softer”, easier on rotors and have a brake “feel” preferred by many riders, including myself. Maybe I'm wanting to much from this bike but my brake feel is not where I personally want it. After years of racing & enjoying brake sponsorships (financially), maybe I'm spoiled. I also use a durometer on my tires because "rubber compound hardness" is something that has become important to me as this aids with better traction, especially when stopping & cornering. My motorcycle tire supplier "used" to tell me I didn't need new tires because I had lots of tread left, until I explained the logic to wanting soft rubber compound on my tires. I used to say to him "When they spin, you win". Tire softening compounds ........................ boy can I talk experiences there too, both on & off the track, both with purchased tire softening additives & home made traction compounds. All I want is to be able to stop quick, preferable without locking my brakes up. Maybe I just want to much. the nube  |
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #25 on: May 28, 2012, 08:12:23 PM » |
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Chrisj CMA.
Good point.
The piston movement did look good when I had the caliper out but as you know, things can work different when under actual working conditions.
I'll give this a look to see what I see.
Thanks for posting!
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Farther
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« Reply #26 on: May 28, 2012, 08:56:11 PM » |
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Sorry Farther. I didn't realize the post count was so important to some but I must say .............. don't let my post count fool you . Not to worry, that remark was not aimed at you. |
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Thanks,
~Farther
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #27 on: May 28, 2012, 09:31:28 PM » |
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Make sure the rotor is not warped. Simple run out check. If it is, that will open pads up while free running and give you much less braking authority when trying to use them.
Also ditch the ebc pads if you have a stock rotor. I've not found anything better then OEM on the valk (and they're darn good...something's up).
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #28 on: May 28, 2012, 09:46:04 PM » |
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@ Daniel.
Rotor looks good.
I am surely agreeing with yours & everyone's opinion of sticking to stock pads.
Thanks for posting!
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Art708
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« Reply #29 on: May 29, 2012, 10:32:51 AM » |
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Sorry Farther. I didn't realize the post count was so important to some but I must say .............. don't let my post count fool you . I could have said "EBC Brakes makes only Organic and Sintered Brake pads" (from the EBC website), but I didn't. I prefer(ed) Organic brake pads because of the way they can & are supposed to work. They are inherently “Softer”, easier on rotors and have a brake “feel” preferred by many riders, including myself. Maybe I'm wanting to much from this bike but my brake feel is not where I personally want it. After years of racing & enjoying brake sponsorships (financially), maybe I'm spoiled. I also use a durometer on my tires because "rubber compound hardness" is something that has become important to me as this aids with better traction, especially when stopping & cornering. My motorcycle tire supplier "used" to tell me I didn't need new tires because I had lots of tread left, until I explained the logic to wanting soft rubber compound on my tires. I used to say to him "When they spin, you win". Tire softening compounds ........................ boy can I talk experiences there too, both on & off the track, both with purchased tire softening additives & home made traction compounds. All I want is to be able to stop quick, preferable without locking my brakes up. Maybe I just want to much. the nube Not to nit pick...but you want to use "too" instead of "to" in your statement, "Mayre I just want to much."  |
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Art 2014 Kawasaki Concours 14 Black  |
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Keitho
Member
Posts: 27
Don't cry cause it's over Smile cause it happened
Ontario, Canada
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« Reply #30 on: May 29, 2012, 03:49:05 PM » |
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@ Art708.
Two funnie. (mayre).
What kind of brake pads do you prefer?
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I wanna go with my boots on!
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Art708
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« Reply #31 on: May 29, 2012, 04:21:17 PM » |
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@ Art708.
Two funnie. (mayre).
What kind of brake pads do you prefer?
Yes...it was meant as funny. I usually just buy OEM at my local dealer when I buy pads. Two funnie....now that's funny. |
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Art 2014 Kawasaki Concours 14 Black |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #32 on: June 03, 2012, 04:37:43 PM » |
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Soooo, did this ever get resolved?
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #33 on: June 04, 2012, 07:09:41 PM » |
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BUMP
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