Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 19, 2025, 08:22:07 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
VRCC Calendar Ad
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Lifting Valk with a car jack?  (Read 3383 times)
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« on: June 03, 2012, 04:48:39 PM »

Hi.

So I need to change my tires, and I have two jack stands and a 3-ton lift.

I've raised the front wheel to prop the front off, but is there a safe way to lift the rear up using what I have? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a lift?



And yes, the rear wheel is chocked. It's pretty stable and is not going anywhere as it is now.

Any recommendations on a decent, inexpensive lift? (I'm assuming the answer to the above will be (Dude, just buy a gorram lift, you idiot.") Found a couple of lifts at J&P Cycle.

Thanks,
John
Logged
tank_post142
Member
*****
Posts: 2629


south florida


« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2012, 04:52:16 PM »

harbor freight has bike lifts on sale for $80.00 this week
Logged

I got a rock Sad
VRCCDS0246 
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2012, 05:04:40 PM »

It's not $80, but this? Same as I was looking at St j&p
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html

John
Logged
tank_post142
Member
*****
Posts: 2629


south florida


« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2012, 05:12:37 PM »

thats it, got an ad yesterday in the mail list it at 79.99. check on line for coupon.
Logged

I got a rock Sad
VRCCDS0246 
Willow
Administrator
Member
*****
Posts: 16677


Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

Olathe, KS


WWW
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2012, 05:14:41 PM »

"I'll take easy answers for under $100, Alex."
Logged
Gear Jammer
Member
*****
Posts: 3074


Yeah,,,,,It's a HEMI

Magnolia, Texas


« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2012, 05:33:13 PM »

"I'll take easy answers for under $100, Alex."

What would you use to lift a motorcycle Carl ? 
Logged




"The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living.
YoungPUP
Member
*****
Posts: 1938


Valparaiso, In


« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2012, 05:37:14 PM »

I built the lift for my floorjack over the winter, but still use the floorjack and jackstand method most of the time. USe a piece of 4x4 on top of the jack pad and place it against the crossmember for the kickstand.  Let the jack do the rest.  Use caution leaving the jack overnight. Most don't hold very well.   I usually lift mine a bit high and then lower it onto a piece of 2x4 set between the jack fram and the lift arm.
Logged

Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)
MarkT
Member
*****
Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2012, 05:39:57 PM »

I wrote this up a dozen years ago.  Worked fine for me until I picked up a lift.  Now I have several.

http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Floor_Jack/floor_jack.html

Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2012, 05:59:20 PM »

"I'll take easy answers for under $100, Alex."

No kidding. Considering most lifts I've seen cost significantly higher than that one, it had me concerned. But if people are recommending it...then Alex, that must  be the right question.

-john
Logged
tank_post142
Member
*****
Posts: 2629


south florida


« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2012, 06:04:23 PM »

my bike say for 2 + months on mine with no problems.
Logged

I got a rock Sad
VRCCDS0246 
MarkT
Member
*****
Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2012, 06:06:55 PM »

I've had both the HF jack and the Craftsman.  They are typically on sale for about the same price.  The Craftsman is much better made, heavier duty, and you'll be happier with it.
Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2012, 06:18:46 PM »

I wrote this up a dozen years ago.  Worked fine for me until I picked up a lift.  Now I have several.

http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Floor_Jack/floor_jack.html


Holy crap, man. You did that by yourself?!  Shocked   I had the wife helping me just get the front tire off the ground. And we were both apprehensive as hell just doing that!
Logged
olddog1946
Member
*****
Posts: 1830


Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2012, 06:19:27 PM »

I have two lifts, one I bought used for 50 and a HF that I bought new, the HF is actually more staple than the other one and I've used it on my and my neighbors valks quite often. I see lifts on CL frequently for 50-75 dollar range.
Logged

VRCC # 32473
US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988
01 Valk Std.
02 BMW k1200LTE
65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd
Moses Lake, Wa.   509-760-6382 if you need help
BF
Member
*****
Posts: 9932


Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2012, 06:42:15 PM »

I've read on here from people that have had issues with both the HF and the Craftsman.  The HF one with letting the bike down......apparently, it drops down pretty fast according to some.  The CM lift has been reported to bleed down by alot of folks.  

Mine is starting to bleed down.  Haven't researched a cure for it yet, but I'm not all that hopefull that there is one.  

Untill it started bleeding down, it's been a rock solid lift. 
Logged

I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

Bone
Member
*****
Posts: 1596


« Reply #14 on: June 03, 2012, 06:53:39 PM »

My CM bought in 05 would slowly bleed down the second year. I always stop it at a locking level. Reading the owners manual it says the oil should be changed yearly. Never heard of that before but changed the oil and it's better than new.
Always use the safety locks.
Logged
Hook#3287
Member
*****
Posts: 6501


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #15 on: June 03, 2012, 07:00:29 PM »


Quote
Holy crap, man. You did that by yourself?!     I had the wife helping me just get the front tire off the ground. And we were both apprehensive as hell just doing that!

Here's how I do it.   Done it this way a hundred times.  Seems to work for me.

1.  Put two jackstands next to the crash bars, one on each side.
2.  With the bike on the kick stand,  put a wood block (2x6x6) on the car jack lift seat and place the lift under the engine block from the left side. (shifter side)
3.  Place the right side  (foot brake side) kickstand under the crash bar where you want it to be, out of the way of what work your doing. Lift the bike from the right side, as if your going to ride it and line up the right jackstand (set the jackstand as high as you can) under the crash bar. Place the bike back down on the kick stand.
4.  Go over to the left side, check the placement of the car jack, lift the bike again as if your going to ride, as much as you can,  it should hit the right jack stand, and start lifting the bike with the car jack.  Sometimes I've done this while sitting on the bike so I can watch the right side jackstand and hold the bike up also, sometimes I just balance the bike from the left side.
5.  Once I've got the bike at the height I want, I slide the left jackstand over and under the crash bar and drop the bike slowly onto it.  The bike is suprisingly steady just on the right jackstand and the car jack while you do this.
6.  Put the kick stand up.
Logged
old2soon
Member
*****
Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #16 on: June 03, 2012, 07:05:20 PM »

Bought the H F lift and haven't looked back. coolsmiley I M H O pretty decent jack fer the cash outlay. Wink And iffin you get the 10% off coupon-well makes a good deal better. cooldude RIDE SAFE.
Logged

Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Dozer
Member
*****
Posts: 211


Humble, Tx


« Reply #17 on: June 03, 2012, 07:46:26 PM »

This is the one I have  http://www.sears.com/craftsman-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950190000P
but I havent used it on the valk...just the road star. No problems with it bleeding yet. My son uses a Larin jack with the adaptor for the valk but if I am not mistaken, I think he has to remove one of the exh pipes?? Maybe not I dont recall. Its been a long time since I have seen the bike on his jack.
Logged
Tim R
Member
*****
Posts: 35


Sioux Falls, South Dakota


« Reply #18 on: June 03, 2012, 08:49:26 PM »

HI
 Check out this link http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/build_adapter.htm it shows a lift adapter that works with a floor jack and can be very inexpensive to build your self if you can weld if not try and find someone that can. I have a friend that has one I built for him and he sold his Valkyrie so he might be willing to sell. If you are interested I can ask him what he wants for it. Also check out this link it shows the one I built for another friend works the same way. See my post Tim R  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,38758.msg364020.html#msg364020



Also see bottom of this link in Shoptalk  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/New_Lift/home.html
« Last Edit: June 03, 2012, 08:55:16 PM by Tim R » Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #19 on: June 04, 2012, 08:37:36 AM »

The adapter made for the Valkyrie is the best money you can spend to insure a good safe lifting of the bike.

A few minutes to install the adapter and the bike is ready to lift.

The two jack stands on the crash bars is just Ok, a little twisting of the bike when working on the rear and those stands (one of them) will easily slide off the bar and the bike will come crashing down. A more positive way to connect the jack stands to the crash bars to keep them from slipping off is really necessary.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
Member
*****
Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #20 on: June 04, 2012, 09:15:16 AM »

 Craftsman jack and the bolt on adapter that stays on the bike  is the best set up that I've used. I always use the safety bars so if it bleeds down the bike won't fall. It did bleed down once thank God I had a 4wheeler on it. I built a stop to slow the decent to a crawl to help with handling and such things as stabbing an axle. I like the foot release as it frees up both hands to steady the bike.
Logged
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #21 on: June 04, 2012, 10:30:24 AM »

I started to lift the rear tire up this morning, with the crash bars on the stands...got scared...said screw it.

So I got the Craftsman. For $80, it's definitely worth the peace of mind over the car jack.

I've always been leery of those things vs the $300+ ones, but since you guys are giving it at least reasonable reviews, I grabbed it.

Thanks,
-john
Logged
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15260


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #22 on: June 04, 2012, 01:31:38 PM »

I refuse to jack my approx. 800lb. bike 15" inches or more in the air to change a rear tire....especially when it isn't necessary. By removing the back half of the rear fender and both shocks, it only needs to be just high enough in back to clear the floor by 3-4". I have a centerstand so the only jack I use is a floor jack to move the swingarm up/down. However, I've changed many for others by raising the front first and setting on jack stands for stability only, then with a lift raise the bike just enough to get the rear wheel off the floor by 3-4". Then with the floor jack I take the pressure off the shocks and remove them along with the fender section. Then by raising the floor jack you can raise the swingarm to allow the axle to clear the exhaust. I've not removed the exhaust to change a wheel...ever. Nor have I raised a bike more than a few inches to remove the rear wheel. It reduces the pucker factor substantially, even with a lift adapter bolted on...which I also have but don't use it since it's not needed.
Logged

frosty
Member
*****
Posts: 152


« Reply #23 on: June 04, 2012, 04:28:33 PM »

Heres the one mentioend. Sturdiest for the bucks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOOK-VALKYRIE-HONDA-ORIG-RIVCO-JACK-ADAPTER-Save-Money-with-ea-use-/170796732135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c4474ee7&vxp=mtr
Logged
frosty
Member
*****
Posts: 152


« Reply #24 on: June 04, 2012, 04:30:16 PM »

Or this one. Stays on the bike.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-DONT-BE-STRANDED-WITHOUT-IT-1-M-C-ITEM-/170789262492?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c3d5549c&vxp=mtr
Logged
Willow
Administrator
Member
*****
Posts: 16677


Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

Olathe, KS


WWW
« Reply #25 on: June 05, 2012, 11:08:58 AM »

So I got the Craftsman. For $80, it's definitely worth the peace of mind over the car jack.

Good choice.   cooldude 
Logged
JC
Member
*****
Posts: 321


The Beast

Franklin, TN


« Reply #26 on: June 05, 2012, 12:05:44 PM »

It's not $80, but this? Same as I was looking at St j&p
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html


+1  cooldude Had mine now for a couple of years with no problems. Had the bike on it all winter during the rebuild. Can't beat it for the price, but I do recommend the lift adapter to go with it.
Logged

Damn thing gives me the grins every time I get on it!
Dougs2000IS
Member
*****
Posts: 61


Wisconsin


« Reply #27 on: June 05, 2012, 04:55:25 PM »

It's not $80, but this? Same as I was looking at St j&p
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html

John

This the one I use on my IS. It works great!
Logged

2013 Victory Vision Arlen Ness
2000 Valk Interstate (sold)
1997 Ford F150
2006 Honda Civic Hybrid
Go Packers
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #28 on: June 09, 2012, 06:20:03 AM »

Got the stay-on-bike adapter. But good lord, who the hell tightened those kick stand nuts?!

I've got some WD40 working into them now, but DAMN those things are tight. Sheesh.

-john
Logged
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2012, 11:14:36 AM »

I hate to sound really stupid....but how the hell do you loosen those kickstand bracket nuts?

I'm cranking the hell out of them and can't get them loose. I somewhat stripped the flats on one of the nuts.

Do I just need a 10 foot lever arm?

These are by far the tightest/most stuck fasteners I've ever encountered.

-john
Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2012, 12:52:32 PM »

An impact driver and a six point socket.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
jabster
Member
*****
Posts: 87


« Reply #31 on: June 12, 2012, 04:02:06 AM »

An impact driver and a six point socket.

That did it. Thanks for the tip.

Good thing I got an impact driver for Christmas, eh?

-john
Logged
BIG--T
Member
*****
Posts: 3002


1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate

The Twilight Zone


« Reply #32 on: June 12, 2012, 04:53:57 AM »

An impact driver and a six point socket.

That did it. Thanks for the tip.

Good thing I got an impact driver for Christmas, eh?

-john

Haha, I know what you mean. I didn't have an impact driver at the time but was determined to put that adapter on and did! Just a pullbar, 1/2 drive ratchet and a whole lotta grunting!!   2funny
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: