Not sure just what to do

[6pak2go]

Searched for specific answer for my dilemma, didn't find it, so am asking the been there, done it group what's the best or proper way to go forth.

2003 Standard 46k.  Bought pads for both wheels last year, but they did not need replacing.  This year they do.  Changed out fluid last year, put speed bleeders on, everything was good.  Calipers are still not leaking.

Now, should I just clean the push rods and shove them back in or take the calipers apart and rebuild with new seals and other obvious needs?  Thanks.

  

[shortleg]

 Just clean and lub, dont mess with
what works.
         Shortleg[Dave]

[old2soon]

R & R the pads check general condition while you're there road test and enjoy. Watch the fluid levels as you push those pistons back in. D O T 4 fluid and remember-brake fluid really ruins paint. RIDE SAFE.

[John Schmidt]

Yup, good advice in both posts. When you press the pads/pistons back in to make room for the new ones, remember to put a small hose or similar on the bleeders, open them and let the displaced fluid dump into a can. Other than that, just check, lube, install, and go your merry way.

[hubcapsc]

If you clean just the part of the pistons you can see, and then push them back in there,
you'll be pushing contamination back into the caliper... I cleaned these pistons, and then
pushed them out some, and there was still more to clean...



-Mike

[custom1]

+1
To push them out a little more, just put the old pads in there with a shim of wood that is a little bit thinner than the rotor and apply the brake. When doing the front make sure you only have the one caliper off that you are working on when you hit the brake lever, or you will make a mess. 

 This pic is of the rear caliper

[Ricky-D]

"To each his own."

I've replaced the pads many times on my Valkyrie and have yet a problem.

Simply push the pistons back in the caliper and install the new pads. That's all I do.

I don't believe this process will contaminate anything especially when considering a low mileage bike.

I do keep an eye on the condition of the brake fluid as a clue to whether or not more attention needs to be given the particular hydraulic brake system.

So far I've not changed the fluid in my front brakes or clutch, it's a light amber color and all is working extremely well.

I have run new fluid through the rear brake system however. i think the condition of the fluid in the rear is more easily contaminated since the reservoir is close to the pavement and subject to more extreme weather conditions, especially rain and water from the roads.

I have not yet done any work to the calipers/pistons since buying the bike new in 2000 / 115k miles.

Same with the master cylinders.

***

[hubcapsc]

"To each his own."

I've replaced the pads many times on my Valkyrie and have yet a problem.

Simply push the pistons back in the caliper and install the new pads. That's all I do.

I don't believe this process will contaminate anything especially when considering a low mileage bike.

I do keep an eye on the condition of the brake fluid as a clue to whether or not more attention needs to be given the particular hydraulic brake system.

So far I've not changed the fluid in my front brakes or clutch, it's a light amber color and all is working extremely well.

I have run new fluid through the rear brake system however. i think the condition of the fluid in the rear is more easily contaminated since the reservoir is close to the pavement and subject to more extreme weather conditions, especially rain and water from the roads.

I have not yet done any work to the calipers/pistons since buying the bike new in 2000 / 115k miles.

Same with the master cylinders.

***

Hi Ricky... weren't you happy with letting your fork seals leak out all the fluid without
doing anything about it, or am I thinking of someone else?

I don't know how many miles my bike had on it when I got it (odometer read about 25K), but
when I did, I just mashed the nasty pistons back in the calipers when I did my initial fluid
change and called it good. Some months later my rear brakes quit releasing, and when
I took the caliper apart, I attributed the problem to not doing a proper job of cleaning stuff
up. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...



I take my calipers apart and clean everything now, whenever I change pads... it is not hard.
I often ride for hundreds of miles in a day, sometimes for several days in a row. I think my
brakes work good. It makes me happy. 

-Mike

[6pak2go]

Thanks to all who replied, I appreciate the info.  I now have the information I need to proceed with new brakes.

[Blackduck]

If the pistons go back in easy and the seals look OK you should be fine just replacing the pads.
If in doubt about how long the fluid has been in the systems change it. Should be changed every couple of years including the clutch fluid.
All brake fluid will absorb moisture and end up attacking the metal in the cylinders.
Cheers Steve.

[F6MoRider]

If you're looking for something to do or if the calipers are corroded, by all means, rebuild/clean the calipers.

If you want to do what's needed, replace the pads, clean or rebuild the calipers based on the amount of corrosion, change the fluids and inspect everything you can along the way. 

Taking her apart and putting her back together is good for the relationship.  Knowing what she needs will come with time. 

[Tropic traveler]

Mileage may have very little to do with crud on the pistons. Kim's '98 was at the 20K mark when the crud build up was severe enough to keep the front calipers from releasing. It is more a factor of age than miles.
Good thing is caliper clean & reseal is a pretty easy & cheap job. The seal kits are inexpensive & the pistons clean up nice with a ScotchBrite pad.