lifguardct
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Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« on: June 10, 2012, 09:35:38 PM » |
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I was told by the previous owner that the gear oil was changed but I have only had the bike for a short time and am reading about some of the issues if the Moly Grease, etc. is not done. The bike has 24k miles, should I rush to do the final drive service or should I be ok until I need the next rear tire replacement? (I would guess the tire has about another 5000 or 6000 miles left)...
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whitestroke
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« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2012, 10:24:18 PM » |
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I'm new here, so here's my 2 cents. Gear oil will be fine. The Moly on the splines will depend on if the bike has been ridden in some heavy rains. If so you might want to remove axle and take a look at splines that will be visible by just removing spacer and disc brake and pulling wheel to the left. I think if there is lube on the splines the axle will also be fine till the next tire change. You'll need a MC lift and have to remove shocks (as opposed to removing mufflers), to get axle bolt out.
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Minibike Honda S90 Yamaha YL100 Bultaco 250 Matador Bultaco 250 Pursang Yamaha 250 YZ Triumph 650 Bonni Honda ATC 200
2 Kids 25 year break. Suzuki GS 500 2003 VTX 1300S, 1998 Valk standard 2008 Goldwing
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CASABROKER
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« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2012, 10:36:52 PM » |
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If you go to that much trouble service it. You won't get a clear picture of what condition the splines take the wheel off. Moly paste will actually look kind of dry even thought there is enough to lube well.
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2012, 08:32:54 AM » |
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Since the bike has 24k on it now, I would guess that you are on the second rear tire. If the PO mentioned the final drive oil change (which is not critical) but didn't say anything about spline lube maintenance (which is more critical), I would not wait another 5-6 k miles to pull the wheel and insure it was done. 30K miles is a long interval to possibly not have done this task. Good final drives are getting harder to come by.....protect the one you have.
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F6MoRider
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« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2012, 09:02:00 AM » |
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Since the bike has 24k on it now, I would guess that you are on the second rear tire. If the PO mentioned the final drive oil change (which is not critical) but didn't say anything about spline lube maintenance (which is more critical), I would not wait another 5-6 k miles to pull the wheel and insure it was done. 30K miles is a long interval to possibly not have done this task. Good final drives are getting harder to come by.....protect the one you have.
I was newly into my 4th tire at 24k. If the PO didn't do the splines, and it's a concern, by all means, pull the rear end and service it. No better wy to know if it was done and then make sure it is done correctly. It's to important not to investigate.
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VRCC #4086 2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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old2soon
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« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2012, 09:49:08 AM » |
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Better to look NOW than find powdered metal later.  Sides it'll give you a good chance to know yer lady better.  RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Mildew
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Posts: 464
Live, Not Just Exist
Auburn, Ga
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« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2012, 05:01:44 PM » |
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I let mine go the length of a car tire once and it was a rusty mess. I pop my wheel off between tire changes now. About12k I didn't check my drive shaft until 75k it looked brand new and still had the original grease. My gear oil gets changed every 25k sometimes it's clean and last time it was very dirty. I'll probably do it at 10k also from now on
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Live, Not Just Exist
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2012, 10:52:25 AM » |
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Better to look NOW than find powdered metal later.  Sides it'll give you a good chance to know yer lady better.  RIDE SAFE. Probably good advice, any volunteers close to southwest Florida wanna help??? 
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F6MoRider
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« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2012, 03:17:00 PM » |
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Better to look NOW than find powdered metal later.  Sides it'll give you a good chance to know yer lady better.  RIDE SAFE. Probably good advice, any volunteers close to southwest Florida wanna help???  I'm in Lakeland, FL and would be glad to help. have all the tools, lifts, etc... Let me know.
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VRCC #4086 2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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Kylenav
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« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2012, 06:06:43 PM » |
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I'm just south of Tampa and wouldn't mind lending a hand at all. I too have the lift and tools if you need a hand.
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #10 on: June 13, 2012, 06:25:01 PM » |
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Great first service project and an important one. Looks like you got help too! 
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2012, 08:50:44 PM » |
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Better to look NOW than find powdered metal later.  Sides it'll give you a good chance to know yer lady better.  RIDE SAFE. Probably good advice, any volunteers close to southwest Florida wanna help???  I'm in Lakeland, FL and would be glad to help. have all the tools, lifts, etc... Let me know. I'm just south of Tampa and wouldn't mind lending a hand at all. I too have the lift and tools if you need a hand.
Super, thanks for the offers... What would I need for parts in advance, Moly paste, O rings, gear lube, anything else???
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F6MoRider
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« Reply #12 on: June 15, 2012, 01:33:36 AM » |
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O-rings would be the long pole in the tent, everything else is available locally.
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VRCC #4086 2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #13 on: June 15, 2012, 04:41:58 PM » |
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I think it was Carolina Bikes and Trikes to buy a 5 pack of the 3 o-rings at a better price than the local/online suppliers.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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98valk
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« Reply #14 on: June 15, 2012, 05:45:22 PM » |
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service manual requires final drive oil to be replaced every 24k miles, if I remember correctly. this is with honda dino oil. using a syn oil which I suggest (I use amsoil) should at least double that change interval.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Kylenav
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« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2012, 01:40:13 PM » |
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That should be all we would need to service everything in the rear end. I use a heavy grease on the U-Joint end of the drive shaft, but I've heard of moly past on that as well. It's all preference and what you feel most comfortable with. Should only take an hour or so if everything is peachy once it's opened up. If you feel a lot of slop, which since you are not the original owner may be hard to tell, then I recommend changing the rear wheel dampers if they're loose. Mine were loose and I changed them with OEM ($35 or so) and it made a world of difference. Just another possibility that you would need to order and have on hand since no dealer will have them in stock. We will certainly have a look and clean them up while the wheel is off. Other than that should be a quick and easy job, but possibly the most important to learn and maintain on the beast. 
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2012, 03:22:31 PM » |
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I don't notice any slop really just the clunky shifts at first until I got used to her and changed the oil, (to Mobil-1)... I have been reading alot about the Green Marine wheel bearing grease, (or most any heavy grease) seems like it should work for a short interval. I was surprised to read about loosening up the final drive bolts prior to re-installing the rear axle but it really does make sense when you think about it. This site seems to be full of great info and people.
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Kylenav
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« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2012, 02:02:12 PM » |
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This site is a real lifesaver. If you plan to service the rear completely then you really need to take the pumpkin off and take a look at the driveshaft, plus changing the final drive fluid is a snap with it off the bike completely. I personally use guard dog grease. Pricey for sure, but cheaper than a new setup and gives me peace of mind. http://www.guarddogmolylubricants.com/gd570.shtmlyou can use the 525 also but I use the 570.
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2012, 07:10:13 AM » |
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O-rings would be the long pole in the tent, everything else is available locally.
That should be all we would need to service everything in the rear end. I use a heavy grease on the U-Joint end of the drive shaft, but I've heard of moly past on that as well. It's all preference and what you feel most comfortable with. Should only take an hour or so if everything is peachy once it's opened up. If you feel a lot of slop, which since you are not the original owner may be hard to tell, then I recommend changing the rear wheel dampers if they're loose. Mine were loose and I changed them with OEM ($35 or so) and it made a world of difference. Just another possibility that you would need to order and have on hand since no dealer will have them in stock. We will certainly have a look and clean them up while the wheel is off. Other than that should be a quick and easy job, but possibly the most important to learn and maintain on the beast.  Ok, I have the O-rings, grease and Moly Paste. I just need to pickup the gear oil and I'm ready to go. Are either of you guys free anytime soon. (Maybe a Saturday) I guess I'm about two hours away from either of you, Lakeland maybe a little farther but no biggie either way. I was going to ride it up, hopefully everything will check out OK. I guess I could trailer it if you think thats better, (probably better to drain it warm, right)? Let me know and thank you again for the help... 
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #19 on: July 21, 2012, 10:56:32 AM » |
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Well thanks to Kyle and Paul, (Kylenav and Silverfox) we did it last Saturday and everything looked great. We replaced all three O-rings, (one was actually missing) Mobil-1 gear oil and Loctite Moly Paste to get it all back together. Thanks again for all the help!!! 
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« Last Edit: July 21, 2012, 10:58:47 AM by lifguardct »
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Fritz The Cat
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« Reply #20 on: July 21, 2012, 01:02:29 PM » |
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Don't do like I did. Pull the wheel and check. Not doing so could be a costly mistake. 
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tank_post142
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« Reply #21 on: July 21, 2012, 03:01:22 PM » |
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I got a rock  VRCCDS0246 
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F6MoRider
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« Reply #22 on: July 21, 2012, 06:07:59 PM » |
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Buy them at Carolina Bike and Trike...a helluva lot cheaper and more! Here's the link http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm
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VRCC #4086 2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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lifguardct
Member
    
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #23 on: July 21, 2012, 07:51:54 PM » |
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Thats where I got mine, 5 sets of the 3 o-rings and I found the Moly paste on ebay.
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