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[BIG--T]

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[steve 3054]

Why?  the tire will wear out faster and not very safe if not run with the correct air pressure???

[Jess from VA]

Just remember, HEAT is generated from underinflation, not overinflation.

I suppose you could be safe at 10 lbs so long as the bead doesn't come loose, and you go 5mph, for a short distance.

With extended use, high speed, normal riding, I cannot think of any reason to run your tires at 30 or 35psi.  They will just wear out faster and handle and stop worse, not better.

Car tire's different some go 28-low 30s just fine (not me).

I did once have to let most of the air out of a 450 Metz knobby on an enduro dirt bike to have enough traction to get up a muddy steep hill in the woods.  I added the air back ASAP.

[SANDMAN5]

The lowest I ever ran for any length of time was 34. That was in
a car tar, though. Been so long since I ran a round tar I can't
remember.  30 seems WAY low, though.

[BIG--T]

Why?  the tire will wear out faster and not very safe if not run with the correct air pressure???

I am going to put a new tire on soon as my o rings, dust seal and washer gets here and in the meantime i want to ride tomorrow.

The tire is not that bad but doesn'r take much for the tire to squeal when I brake. Mine is far from being down to the canvas and it will still cover the very top of Lincoln's head. It is a an E3 and has a ridge in the middle and about 1 1/2" srip in the middle. I figure if I let just a little air out it will have more contact on the ground and not skid so easy.  

So I figure if I drop it to 30 psi cold, when hot it should be 35.

[Hoser]

Tire pressure limits should be on the side of the tire.  Hoser

[BIG--T]

Tire pressure limits should be on the side of the tire.  Hoser

I always ran 40 psi both front and rear on the E3'S, but the rear has bit the dust! 

[Jess from VA]

I would still run an almost used up tire at full pressure.  Just ride conservatively, and get the new one on ASAP.

Use more front brake and less rear.

[old2soon]

With it already worn down go with mfg recommended pressures on the side wall. These are heavy M/Cs to begin with. Or just wait on the new tire. RIDE SAFE.

[Jess from VA]

The mfgrs do not put RECOMMENDED PSI on the sidewall, they put MAX LOAD PSI on the sidewall.  Max load is just that..... you, the 160lb wife, and all the gear for two weeks. 

MAX PSI is not the PSI you want to be running full time.

[Gryphon Rider]

The tire is not that bad but doesn'r take much for the tire to squeal when I brake.

If you're regularly squealing your properly inflated tires when braking, you need to adjust your riding.  Either you are not anticipating things that require you to slow down and need to look/scan farther ahead, or you are following too close, or you are over-using the rear brake (if that's the one squealing), or you are riding too aggressively, leaving a very small margin for error and the unexpected.

I rode my E3 front tire to 2" wide baldness and didn't notice squealing problems.

[Jess from VA]

Most used E3s look the same (little cupping)... that tire looks like it easily has a several thousand miles to go.

More front brake, less rear!!  In straight line stops, practice using front only... they are 75-80% of your stopping power anyway.  However, as you actually come to a stop, front-only braking can get a little wobbly.

[BIG--T]

Most used E3s look the same (little cupping)... that tire looks like it easily has a several thousand miles to go.

More front brake, less rear!!  In straight line stops, practice using front only... they are 75-80% of your stopping power anyway.  However, as you actually come to a stop, front-only braking can get a little wobbly.

That's what I thought...It don't look that bad! BUT, I've never had any trouble before til now! My riding habits haven't changed and I've always used my front and rear equally. 

[Jess from VA]

I never ran an E3, but they get the longest mileage (by far) of any because the compound is harder than on any other tire (for Valk).  Now that the center is smoothed out some, that hard compound will slide easier in hard starts and stops (esp on wet surface).  Do not lower the PSI, just use more front brakes.

Ideally of course you use both front and rear, equally.  Try thinking 2/3-3/4 front, 1/4-1/3 rear pressure on the brake lever/pedal and you will get a better result.  Use the front to stop and the rear to keep you straight and stable.

Rear pads are much thicker than front, but if you have to change the rear pads much more often than the front, you are using too much rear brake (or not enough front).  

Except in very slow downhill turns when you do not touch the front.  

[BIG--T]

I never ran an E3, but they get the longest mileage (by far) of any because the compound is harder than on any other tire (for Valk).  Now that the center is smoothed out some, that hard compound will slide easier in hard starts and stops (esp on wet surface).  Do not lower the PSI, just use more front brakes.

Ideally of course you use both front and rear, equally.  Try thinking 2/3-3/4 front, 1/4-1/3 rear pressure on the brake lever/pedal and you will get a better result.  Use the front to stop and the rear to keep you straight and stable.

Rear pads are much thicker than front, but if you have to change the rear pads much more often than the front, you are using too much rear brake (or not enough front).  

Except in very slow downhill turns when you do not touch the front.  

I'll try that and see. No I don't use my front in turns!   

[X Ring]

The mfgrs do not put RECOMMENDED PSI on the sidewall, they put MAX LOAD PSI on the sidewall.  Max load is just that..... you, the 160lb wife, and all the gear for two weeks. 

MAX PSI is not the PSI you want to be running full time.

No they don't but often times it will be on their website.

Marty