Oil changes

[Youngsmoke]

Hey,
   Looking for some advice.  I am thinking about changing my 98 tourer to full synthetic oil (castrol if you are curious).  It is new to me and has 49k on the dial.  Based on the previous owner it has always had conventional oil.  I bought the bike because I plan to start doing some touring, and want to switch to synthetic for the added mileage.  I currently live in Las vegas, NV and plan to ride, if not all year, then darn close to it, so I was thinking of the switch because I would not have to put my baby down for the winter.  One thing that just occured to me, though, is that in the next couple of years I will probably be moving back home to ohio, where I would have to winterize my bike.  When I go home, it is unlikely that I will put enough miles on the bike  in a season to make changing synthetic oil at winterizing time worthwhile, my wife and I will probably try to start having kids when we move home.  Is it worth it for me to switch up to synthetic now?  do I have to change my oil when I put my baby down for the winter?  should I just stick with conventional and change the oil more often now to save cash down the line when kids eat up riding time?  is there a distinct advantage to switching to synthetic?
any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Ari

[Sharkey]

You cant go wrong either way.

I prefer to run conventional  oil and change it every 3000 miles. It does not take me very much time. I also figure by changing the oil more ofter you are getting out any contaiments. I use Rotella 15/40 and a Walmart 3593a oil filter,with the larger filter it holds a full gallon.  I can change the oil for under $15.

Here is a lot of reading on the subject

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil


http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

[sandy]

To each his own on what oil you use and how often you change it. Most here like one of the popular synthetics and some even change it at 3K. A waste of money to me. Honda calls for 8K on a conventional change. I use Mobil 1 and a Purolator Pure One filter (PL14610) and change at 10K intervals. Been doing this since 50K and now have 106K on the clock. No problems. Be sure whatever oil you use, it does NOT have friction modifiers in it.

[Robert]

I agree with what Sandy says, I also use the Pure One and Mobil one 20w/50 motorcycle oil with change intervals of 5 to 6k. I wouldn't use the Castrol only because it is a engineered oil. Meaning the start from Dino oil and engineer the oil to give it the properties that they want it to have. In my books not a real synthetic although the courts decided that it was close enough to say synthetic. There are so many out there and really the Valk is really easy on oil and it seems no matter what oil people have used it just keeps on going. As for using synthetics or not it doesn't cost that much more to be a hero in this case and use synthetics so why not? Also most synthetics flow so much better at lower temps providing better lubrication at colder temps. You've got another Valk rider in Vegas by the name of Hot Rod you may want to look him up.

[Master Blaster]

Yes you need to put fresh oil and filter on before storing for the winter.  When Spring comes you are set to go and the acids that have built up all summer didnt get a chance to eat at your engine while it sat idle.  As mentioned Honda recomende 8000 mile changes, so whatever you do will be ok.  I have been using the Shell Rotella Syn for years, and have no complaints.  I usually shoot for 5000 mile changes just because its easy to remember, but it wouldnt bother me to go twice that especailly if I were on a trip.  Not changing oil on a trip.  Some like to waste money and support big oil, so if the 1-3 thousand mile oil changes make them happy I guess it is worth it to them.  Not me, I buy my oil and filters at Walley World, and use the Rotella syn in everything I own, makes it simple.  Would suggest that you stay away from Fram junk filters, probably more danger there than what type or weight of oil you use.  Also probably prudent to avoid energy concerving oils.

[DeathWishBikerDude]

I've used synthetic since breaking in the bike.
I use super tech from wally world and change it once a year,before storage.
Usually about 5,000 mile interval.
I've had my valve covers off numerous times for valve adjustment,and engine is clean.
The bike runs quietly with the 10w30 or 5w30.
My weather here in Ohio doesnt warrant the thicker 40 or 50 weight.

[Bone]

Honda recommends a 10w-40. The oil viscosities chart in the manual shows a SAE 20w-50 in the upper 30 degree range as a low temperature range to a plus 100 degree range.
The 50 works fine for my Valk north of Ohio in Michigan.

[BF]

Florida....hot and humid.  Did I say hot and humid?  

Another Mobil 1 motorcycle synthetic, 20w-50 user.  Switched over to synthetic at 38,000 with no problems what so ever.  Filters are either Purolator or Honda OEM.....but perfer the Purolator.   Just MHO, but I think those are the two best brand filters made.  Purolator has a shorter element, but many, many pleats.  Honda OEM has a longer element, but not as many pleats in the filter element.  

True that 20w-50 isn't recommended for the low 30's and lower, but it doesn't usually get in the 30's here all that often anyway....and besides......I'm not riding in the low 30's anyway.     Upper 30's, lower 40's are about the extent of my threshold of pain for me anyway.  If it's gonna be in the 30's, the bike is going to be in the garage anyway.  That's what I have a truck with a heater in it for.      

[BF]

As a side note....

It might have been over-kill, but when I changed over from regular oil to synthectic, I first did an oil and filter change using the synthectic.  Then, road the bike around for a few days and did another oil and filter change less than a 100 miles later.  My thinking was that I wanted to wash out all of the old oil in the motor and start over clean with the synthetic. 

Like I said, it might have been over-kill, but it made me feel better.....even if it did cost me about another 30 bucks.

[Tropic traveler]

Switched to synthetic Rotella 5W40 at 60,000 miles after previous owner used Honda 10W40 for the first 50,000+ miles. 91,000+ now with no problems. Switching to synthetic is OK at pretty much any mileage in a Valk.
 

[Youngsmoke]

Bit the bullet and changed to castrol synthetic oil today.  fired the bike up and.... no leaks!  thanks for everyones advice.  one problem I did notice was that as soon as i started up i noted a ticking with the engine at idle.  haven't ridden since the change but that made me nervous.  it seems like it is coming from the right side of the engine, but can't be sure yet.  the only other thing that i did was change my spark plugs.  any ideas?
thanks
Ari

[DeathWishBikerDude]

I'd pull the synthetic out and try another brand.
Even though it says synthetic,it can also be highly refined conventional oil that meets the standard.
If the valve train was silent before,and now is loud,get the oil out of the motor!
Visit bob is the oil guy(bitog),to learn about different oils.