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Author Topic: Help needed! Possible alternator problem.  (Read 2442 times)
Raverez
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No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« on: May 30, 2009, 06:08:14 PM »

Need some advise on this. I have a "99 Interstate. Probably original battery. Bought her three years ago.
Last week she seemed to be running a little rough. Starts up fine every morning. I've noticed a slight drop in gas mileage, approx 15-20 per tank. Today, while running  on local super slab. Instruments  started flashing, then went dead. Radio was still working. Turned off radio, instruments came back to life.
But went dead with in a minute. I pulled off the road at next exit , she died altogether.  I tried to troubleshoot. After about 30 minutes, she started up. I disconnected the negative lead from the battery and she cut off again. I'm guessing she needs an alternator. I don't have a voltmeter and only some basic tools (ratchet set, pliers, box wrenches). Is there anything else that could cause the bike to act this way?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Raul police Sad Sad
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Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2009, 06:13:35 PM »

Probably the original battery.
You have answered your own question. 10 years on any battery is very good service.
Have the battery tested first.
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2009, 07:15:26 PM »

I'd say the battery. Easy to start there 1st.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2009, 07:33:05 PM »

As long as the alternator is good it will run without a battery............

I do believe he said it died when he unhooked the battery cable......

That tells me alternator....

Go to shop talk, there is a Gold Wing replacemnt that is mucho cheaper than the Valkyrie one.

You have to spin the one end piece to match the Valkyrie and then it will bolt right on......

When ya take the 4 long bolts out, DO NOT remove that end cap, just turn it in place and put the 4 bolts back in................
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2009, 07:45:15 PM »

Sounds like an alternator.
Have it rebuilt locally and get a new battery also.
I would get the battery asap.
Start with the cheapest/easiest items first.
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Raverez
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No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2009, 07:54:28 PM »

Thanks everyone. I was hoping it would be an easier fix. Funny, I was going to replace the battery this year anyway. Any tips on removing the old alternator? Any special tools that I might need?
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PatrickDoss
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Alabama


« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2009, 08:51:22 PM »

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER disconnect a battery with the engine running.  That test worked fine on cars in the 50's with generators.  You do that on a modern machine and the resultant voltage spike can fry electronics on the vehicle, such as your ICM or Radio on the Valk, or any number of things on a car.  Plus, if the battery is gassing, it could explode.  Some vehicles with good alternators will quit running when they detect the voltage spike to protect the electronics.  Others won't.

To get to your original questions, volt/ohm meters are cheap at parts stores or Sears and handy tools to have.  Check the voltage with the bike running and that will tell you if the alternator is working.
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Grandpot
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Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2009, 03:51:53 AM »

Buy an inexpensive volt meter.  About $10.

When the bike is off, the meter should read 11 to 12 volts.  When the bike is running and rpms are above 1,200, the meter should read 13 to 14 volts.  If it does not, the problem is most likely the alternator.

Go to this site: http://mysite.verizon.net/resp3jbj/

Find the phone number and talk to Ken.  He knows his stuff and is very helpful.
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
Raverez
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No good deed goes unpunished

Central New York State


« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2009, 08:32:28 AM »

Ok, so the battery has two dead cells. Heading to wally world to price a new one and maybe pick up a voltmeter so I can check if the Alternator is charging properly.
Auto Zone said they will price match if the warranty is identical.....

Thanks again.  police
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Bone
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« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2009, 10:07:55 AM »

Make sure your new battery gets a complete charge before using in the bike. There is no going back here a partial charge will be your new chargeable limit.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: June 01, 2009, 05:40:56 AM »

ALSO...double check the 55A fusable link.  That is a "fuse" primarily for the alternator.  If it blows NO ALTERNATOR.....easy fix, there should be a spare in the lid of that little box..........then go get a new spare right away if thats what happened
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fordmano
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San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05

San Jose, CA.


« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2009, 09:36:26 PM »

Try Harbor freight for an Inexpensive Multimeter,,, I got mine on sale for $2.99 a while back and it has a nice back light feature so you can see the screen in the dark on the side of the road.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92020
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