Raverez
Member
Posts: 699
No good deed goes unpunished
Central New York State
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« on: June 01, 2009, 05:41:41 AM » |
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Does anybody know where I can get an alternator? Should I go with the OEM or do I get the one for the Goldwing? Price and speedy delivery is a concern. Is there anyone in the Central New York area(Syracuse). Should I try to have mine rebuilt? Thanks for the help.  |
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2009, 06:14:02 AM » |
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Taking your alternator off yourself,and taking it to a local rebuild shop should run about $70 and take one day or so.
Try calling a big truck repair facility and asking for a rebuild shop,if you can't locate one.
A new or used alternator will probably run $250 or so.
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EOD MOE
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2009, 10:10:41 AM » |
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I had one replaced last year and sent it to Ken Hemmings. Outstanding service, he does it on an exchange program. Here is his site http://mysite.verizon.net/resp3jbj/ . |
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2009, 08:08:39 PM » |
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I went the gold wing route from HDL and with overnight shipping it was still only $249. Great service from them on this . I tried the rebuilt deal once and it crapped out on me 200 miles from home. I was not a happy camper at the time, but i got over it. I rented a truck and bought tie downs and brought her home myself.
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2009, 04:43:43 AM » |
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Last month I too did the HDL Goldwing alternator replacement. Easy money aprox. $229. Time considered, it was better for me than the rebuild I did a few years back.
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2009, 05:57:36 AM » |
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Anything electrical can go at any time. I've also had new alternators fail. A good rebuild shop will replace all worn componants. I hope you get your $250 worth.  |
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Rocketman
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« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2009, 07:38:00 AM » |
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If you go the rebuilt route, make sure your rebuild shop knows their stuff. I removed/replaced my alternator 4 times before I finally got one from Ken Hemmings (mentioned above). The local rebuild shop apparently couldn't figure out how to properly do the job, and the units failed within two weeks of installation, multiple times.
Ken's has been in for ~2 months and going strong.
Mark
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Valker
Member
Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2009, 08:40:41 AM » |
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I've had one of Ken's in for over a year and about 12,000 miles. I got the high output one. Good stuff so far.  |
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Raverez
Member
Posts: 699
No good deed goes unpunished
Central New York State
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« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2009, 07:14:00 PM » |
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Ok, so I went the Goldwing route. Installed it,Started the bike ,let it warm up hooked up a voltmeter. Maybe I did it wrong. It read 12.4v when the bike was off. 11v when running ???.  Going to the dealer I bought it from tomorrow and have them check it. Probably see if the alternator I took off really is bad. Or maybe some other problem. Wish I had more daylight to recheck my work.  Any suggestion would be welcomed. Thanks in advance Raul |
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Raverez
Member
Posts: 699
No good deed goes unpunished
Central New York State
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« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2009, 08:38:24 PM » |
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Just checked the shop talk page and read:
"You have to take off the capacitor that is mounted on the Gold Wing alternator and rotate the front housing to match the holes from the Valkyrie model so that it will fit."
Is that the little black plastic box on the rear end of the alternator? The old one had the same thing on it.
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Rocketman
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« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2009, 02:15:38 PM » |
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Just checked the shop talk page and read:
"You have to take off the capacitor that is mounted on the Gold Wing alternator and rotate the front housing to match the holes from the Valkyrie model so that it will fit."
Is that the little black plastic box on the rear end of the alternator? The old one had the same thing on it.
The I/S alternator has the capacitor (black plastic box). The standard/tourer alt. doesn't. The instructions are written for a standard/tourer. So, if you have an interstate, rotate the housing, and leave the capacitor. You should be good. Check all your connections, though. It sounds like you didn't get something connected right. |
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Ken 11861
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« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2009, 02:34:16 PM » |
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Sorry I did'nt see your last post til I got home from work today.
Yes it is the "black box" on the rear end of the alternator (aprox 1 1/8" x 1" x 5/8" thick).
Another tidbit for you that maybe I should have known, when rotating be SURE that you rotate the Front Bolt Flange end at the (green) Stator seam NEAREST] the Bolt Flange. Fortunately I noticed mine was moving at the stator seam nearest the rear housing and that movement will pull on the stator wires connections that are connected inside the rear housing.
Just wrap duct-tape around the rear housing to the green stator area and then the front flange will rotate at the front stator seam only.
I sure hope this is clear.
Good luck - mine has run perfectly since installed on 4/25/09 - hundreds of miles.
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
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Raverez
Member
Posts: 699
No good deed goes unpunished
Central New York State
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« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2009, 05:20:08 PM » |
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Rotated the front end. Checked connections. Left the capacitor on. Still had nothing. Tonight it sleeps at the dealer. They'll check it tomorrow. Is there a voltage regulator that can go bad?
Anyway I still have a alternator that I'll have repaired as a spare.
Thanks for the info.
Raul
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Rocketman
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« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2009, 07:41:48 AM » |
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Is there a voltage regulator that can go bad?
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator. Yes, it can go bad, but you just replaced it. There's always the possibility of getting a bad unit out of the box, but that SHOULDN'T happen. Anyway I still have a alternator that I'll have repaired as a spare.
Just get it repaired at a good shop. There's nothing more frustrating than having your spare fail on you. |
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